13B REW water seal upgrade!
10-28-15, 07:20 PM
#1
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13B REW water seal upgrade!
My water seal just went on me after 1 month this is my second motor **** on me due to water seal leaking into combustion chamber!
Im new to the rotary world and it is really living up to it name on how unreliable it is! Has anyone come up with anything better then them rubber/viton water seal? Maybe some kind of gasket or copper o ring? The OEM style water seal suck ***!
my car has a koyo radiator fan turn on never over heated the motor!
Im new to the rotary world and it is really living up to it name on how unreliable it is! Has anyone come up with anything better then them rubber/viton water seal? Maybe some kind of gasket or copper o ring? The OEM style water seal suck ***!
my car has a koyo radiator fan turn on never over heated the motor!
10-28-15, 07:34 PM
#2
If your on your second engine and both of them have had water leaking into them I blame you. The Mazda OEM water jacket seal are great seals and have been proven time and time again . I use them on all street /daily driver builds. Zero problems . Rotary engine are plenty reliable. Maybe you should just sell it and get yourself a boinger.
10-28-15, 07:50 PM
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i bought the car with a remanufacturer engine water seal went on it. Then i bought a used engine everything is great then 1 month later water seal went again! They are great motor but they are not as reliable as the piston engine and you cant deny that. maybe some one could show me how to build a reliable engine.
10-28-15, 08:00 PM
#5
I can deny it all day long. Did both engines have thermostats in them? A rebuild is not all that hard to do. Your a little to far for me to help but I'm sure you can find someone here that can. I recommend you drain the antifreeze /water out of you engine so that it doesn't keep seeping in and rust up the insides.
10-28-15, 08:15 PM
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I have never build a rotary before. I have built many honda,subaru and 2jz engine. The first one has thermostats and the second one doesn't. Engine never saw 200 degree so im just bumped that it fail on me.
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10-29-15, 12:07 PM
#14
viton is more durable than silicone but it has poorer sealing characteristics but better reusability.
silicone has a lower melting point than viton, it however does seal better for engines that have a lot of miles and poor sealing surfaces.
there is no magic coolant seal, but the issue in your case was not the fault of the coolant seal but either someone who misled you or built a junk engine in the first place. that is also not the fault of the rotary engine.
that said, i still recommend silicone coolant seals over viton for daily driven cars. for race cars that get periodic teardowns and lots of abuse, including resistance to blowthrough desintigration i use the vitons.
there is more alternatives to silicone coolant seals than just mazda, i know myself and Goopy sell them. probably a few others as well.
one other thing often overlooked is broken coolant seal walls. an engine built with a wall that is broken but not completely caved will not last long. you can test the walls by laying a flat tip screwdriver against the thin walls under 2mm thick and lightly lean into it and see if they collapse, but no more than about 15-20lbs of pressure. electrolysis of the rotor housings is another often overlooked problem. there are many reasons to avoid just anyone who can claim to build an engine.
i did make a sleeve kit for the iron issue, but very few people bought them so i cancelled production and just have the raw material now. eventually the irons will become scarce, but it was never meant to be a cure for already broken irons, soooo, catch 22 failure i suppose.
silicone has a lower melting point than viton, it however does seal better for engines that have a lot of miles and poor sealing surfaces.
there is no magic coolant seal, but the issue in your case was not the fault of the coolant seal but either someone who misled you or built a junk engine in the first place. that is also not the fault of the rotary engine.
that said, i still recommend silicone coolant seals over viton for daily driven cars. for race cars that get periodic teardowns and lots of abuse, including resistance to blowthrough desintigration i use the vitons.
there is more alternatives to silicone coolant seals than just mazda, i know myself and Goopy sell them. probably a few others as well.
one other thing often overlooked is broken coolant seal walls. an engine built with a wall that is broken but not completely caved will not last long. you can test the walls by laying a flat tip screwdriver against the thin walls under 2mm thick and lightly lean into it and see if they collapse, but no more than about 15-20lbs of pressure. electrolysis of the rotor housings is another often overlooked problem. there are many reasons to avoid just anyone who can claim to build an engine.
i did make a sleeve kit for the iron issue, but very few people bought them so i cancelled production and just have the raw material now. eventually the irons will become scarce, but it was never meant to be a cure for already broken irons, soooo, catch 22 failure i suppose.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-29-15 at 12:36 PM.
10-29-15, 12:15 PM
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I'm going to build the engine my self this time using atkin seal and gasket. Anyone know where I can buy some used oil control ring mental? I lost 4 of mine
10-29-15, 12:26 PM
#16
atkins uses OEM seals, if you hate OEM so much then don't be surprised when you open the package and see the multi layered teflon/silicone seals. the reason i no longer use them is, they are overly fragile and have literally almost no forgiveness for reuse even if you simply just assembled the block and never ran it.
before you go nuts deep, beware what you're buying. if you want used oil control rings then also be sure they are no more than 20% shiny/worn. people will have no problem pawning junk on you if you don't ask the correct questions.
before you go nuts deep, beware what you're buying. if you want used oil control rings then also be sure they are no more than 20% shiny/worn. people will have no problem pawning junk on you if you don't ask the correct questions.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-29-15 at 12:28 PM.
10-29-15, 02:32 PM
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I don't hate oem or aftermarket seal. I just want something reliable because both of my oem motor went cause of the water seal. how much heat can the oem seal take? Also looking to buy Atkins Brown seal
10-29-15, 04:21 PM
#21
OEM coolant seals will physically begin melting at slightly over 300F, viton is actually rated at less than HT silicone but i see it perform to higher standards, as it tends to not gel or liquify but rather begins to smolder.
but those numbers are drastic, no engine should ever see those limits.
but those numbers are drastic, no engine should ever see those limits.
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