13b FC newbie questions
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From: TN
13b FC newbie questions
Had a few questions so I'll just list em below. Just bought a used naturally aspirated RX7 FC a week ago, and aside from problems with dryrotted belts and a flooded engine, car runs alright.
The car has 130k miles on it, not sure if the engine has gone through a rebuild in the past, though apex seals seem good, but does anybody know when NA rx7 apex seals usually go out? I'm already thinking about getting a rebuild in the summer when it warms up, but if that isn't necessary, please tell me.
the de-flooding procedure I read said that I'd have to do an oil change after getting the car running again. Is that necessary or will the oil still lubricate?
Any advice for a new rotary owner? I'm open to everything and anything that helps, so lay it on me
NOTE: The engine was flooded after I got it to my garage, it was running great during test run and red line
The car has 130k miles on it, not sure if the engine has gone through a rebuild in the past, though apex seals seem good, but does anybody know when NA rx7 apex seals usually go out? I'm already thinking about getting a rebuild in the summer when it warms up, but if that isn't necessary, please tell me.
the de-flooding procedure I read said that I'd have to do an oil change after getting the car running again. Is that necessary or will the oil still lubricate?
Any advice for a new rotary owner? I'm open to everything and anything that helps, so lay it on me
NOTE: The engine was flooded after I got it to my garage, it was running great during test run and red line
Flooding and difficult hot starting on an otherwise good running engine can be a sign of low compression, which can be a sign of housing and/or hard seal wear. Hard seals include the apex seals which everyone seems to know about. But there are also side and corner seals, and their associated springs that can contribute to low compression. Flooding obviously can be from other things too...dirty injectors, old plugs, weak ignition etc.
Checking compression on a rotary is aliitle different than a piston engine but here’s a link that might help give you an idea of where your engine is at Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.. I’m most familiar with the FD but I’d say 130k on a n/a FC might be about time.
And yes, it’s advisable to change oil if the car has been seriously flooded due to fuel dilution. Pull the dipstick. If it smells like gas you’ll know.
Checking compression on a rotary is aliitle different than a piston engine but here’s a link that might help give you an idea of where your engine is at Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.. I’m most familiar with the FD but I’d say 130k on a n/a FC might be about time.
And yes, it’s advisable to change oil if the car has been seriously flooded due to fuel dilution. Pull the dipstick. If it smells like gas you’ll know.
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2018
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From: TN
Update: Got engine to start, and it ran for a while, but after about 5 minutes it began losing revs at idle until the engine stalled. It seemed to run okay, and reved up fine when I pressed the gas pedal, so I have a feeling it might be the fuel injectors or spark plugs. Thanks for info Sgtblue
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Bob_The_Normal
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Jun 11, 2005 05:50 AM