fanatic

Timing is/was spot on. I tried advancing and retarding it a tad, but either way didn't really yield results. I also got it started, and got code 18. TPS, yes?

FC RX-7 Codes - YouTube

satch

iTrader: (1)

You'll want to check pin 2F of the ECU w/key to on and the engine as hot as it can possibly get and it should read 1 volt. You can also check the connector which plugs into the TPS pigtail where the Green/Red wire is under the same conditions as listed above. You should check the side of the connector opposite of the pigtail and you should do this test first and if it measures 1 volt or close to it then check it at the ECU. If you don't get voltage at the connector plugging into the pigtail then you cannot get the voltage at the ECU where it needs to be thus you should then reexamine the connector and try to figure out why the voltage from the TPS is not passing through the connector properly.

satch

iTrader: (1)

And it appears you have a second code being flashed. It looks to be a 23 or 33 depending on whether there is a long flash between codes given or not as I believe when the codes are first checked there should be a long flash before the codes are revealed.

fanatic

It measured .19 volts both ecu and tps side

fanatic

Yeah, it's throwing a code 33 also.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

You'll want to get that as close to 1V as possible with the idle set around 900rpm if you can.

fanatic

Ok, I will experiment more tomorrow. Maybe this is the cause of it all. I noticed that if I unplugged the TPS with the car running it didn't change the way it was running. I know that's how to test the TPS on a Supra, not sure if it works here too.

skruyd

Still haven't read the compression test have been done. It's one of the easiest ways of debunking almost everything else that could be wrong/right. It seriously doesn't take that long neither. I've done the adjust idle, TPS, timing, and when everything was spot on it still had to be brought up past 3K RPMs just to get decent acceleration. Did the compression test and yea. The rear rotor was dead

fanatic

Compression test hasn't been performed yet. I don't have a good tester (Mine leaks), and I have to drive a little while to go borrow one from anywhere. I get home very late in the afternoon from work, and by the time I finally get home I just don't feel like driving anymore honestly. I hope to get around to it soon, as I will be buying one. Also, I noticed something weird. I was adjusting the TPS, and I noticed... their is something inside of the throttle body that is "Running" full time with the key on, yet quits when the key is switched off. What inside of the throttle body is 12v+ switched? I thought it was a bad injector, but when I unplugged them both at the same time, the sound remains.

fanatic

I have a good question. Is it common for the 13b to run without both primary injectors hooked up? I unplugged them both, and the engine still ran exactly the same as it did with them plugged up.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The injectors towards the top of the engine are the secondary injectors. Are these the injectors you unplugged? In any case the secondary injectors only work w/the rpm at 3800 or higher and the car under load.

fanatic

Yeah, those are the ones. I had them confused. I think it's going to be a fuel issue at this point. The only injectors changed were the secondaries. I believe a injector is stuck open, and it's flooding itself horribly. I'm going to replace the primaries this weekend and see if that will change anything. I wonder if that would explain the clicking I keep hearing at the intake. Hm.

fanatic

Ok, now I'm certain it's a injector. Went out to start it and didn't give it time to flood. I just flipped the key into "start", it spun over maybe twice, then fired right up.

satch

iTrader: (1)

ECU pins 3W (Light Green) and 3Y (Light Green/Black) are your primary injectors. These should read 12 volts w/key to on. If they do then they are not opening unless one or both are already stuck open to begin with. If they both read 12 volts then they shouldn't be clicking. The caveat to this is the other wires (one each for each injector), which should be the constant voltage, and if these wires are accidentally grounding then that would fire the injector(s). The two pins previously listed are the pulsing wires to activate the injectors. If either pin 3W or 3Y are lower than 12 volts such as 0 volts to 6 volts then the ECU is trying to fire the injector(s). If the other wire to the injector, which is Black/Yellow, have a ground on it accidentally then the injector is opening when it should not.

fanatic

Well, 3Y is at 12v, 3W is at 12v, and black/yellow is at 11.5 volts. If I stick my head on top of the upper intake, I can hear a constant, faint buzz on the intake runner side. And If I unhook the battery for a few minutes then hook it back up, something on the exhaust side clicks, like something is shutting. Other than that, the only clicking sounds are obvious relays, etc. I feel like we're getting close.

satch

iTrader: (1)

After the car has been run some the BAC will normally buzz for a while w/the key to off before shutting off. If you believe this is what you hear then you can simply unplug it and see if you hear the same sound or not. Also, you can unplug the two wire plug to some of the emission solenoids one at a time to see if that helps to determine the source of any clicking.

fanatic

Well the car hasn't been ran other than about 4 hours ago, and it was ran for maybe 2 minutes. It's cool now, but the buzzing is still there, and the buzz only exists if the key is in the on position.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There are only so many possibilities so just disconnect things one by one and eventually you'll find it.

The Main Relay has two plugs. One has four wires. Unplug this plug. Then jumper voltage from the White/Red wire in the plug to the B/Y wire in the plug. Then listen for the clicking/buzzing you hear. If you don't hear it then you know the B/W wire at the Main Relay must be feeding this buzzing/clicking device in one way or another.

fanatic

Alright, I will go give that a shot. It's such a faint buzz that it's hard to hear without your head on the upper intake.

I noticed the buzz apparently follows this fellow.


If I stick my head on the intake and hook the cable up with the key in "on", it sounds something like "Pop, click click click", then silence. The buzz in the intake duplicates the same sound, but keeps buzzing very, very slightly. Oh, and my sound effect there sucked, I know haha. Going to go unplug some wires.

fanatic

Instantly found the buzz! It's the alternator. It's buzzing... and warm. Haven't had the car running for hours, yet the alt is the only warm spot on the engine. Soo, that's the buzz.

fanatic

Ok, no more buzzing anywhere else at this point, I've looked everywhere. Random question though, where does this ground go? It's bolted to the bell housing (in case my picture sucks) I also found 2 vacuum lines that are missing.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The wire connected to the bell housing could be one of the grounds which normally bolts to the firewall near the wiper motor location.

fanatic

Bingo, that was it! I appreciate that.

fanatic

Ordered all new brake hardware and 2 new injectors. Now we wait...

fanatic

Injectors and brake pads came today. I know the pads won't help it run better, but it needs done. They sent me the wrong front pads with the correct rears. Drivers rear went in without a hitch, passenger rear? ..Oh boy. The pads were literally steel backing on brake rotor. They were so low that the caliper piston came out far enough to tear the rubber boot. Soooo, I will be swapping injectors at the end of this week and ordering a caliper rebuild kit
. Watch my luck, injectors will fix it and I'll want to drive it, yet have no brakes.. I'll be super pissed haha