The OFFICIAL Steve Kan Tuning Session Thread - In Northern VA!!!
04-16-07, 08:10 PM
#101
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guys what ever you decide will have to work . I did not mean for this to explode into this what it has . I posted twice about my problem and then PM'ed the guys involved , and that was it until now . This tunning has been discussed to death for months now and I have been waiting as long as anyone else . Im sorry my deposit did not get it before the others , but I was paying for three of them. I also have family waiting for me back at home includding my 1 yr old who just came home from sugery. What ever order you want to do is fine with me , I wont say another word about it . Hopefully we can all get out cars tuned . My 1st tunning shoud not take long ( I would think ) I already have a pretty good running car , I jjust want to confirm this with Steve . Again , what ever you decide will work for me and Greg . Just please get the list straight so I know what time to leave town here .If anyone can switch order , as mentioned before I will pay the difference for the dyno time .
Thanks in advance to everyone
Va
Thanks in advance to everyone
Va
04-16-07, 09:52 PM
#102
Originally Posted by 2GSLSE
First of all let me say Thanks because my appreciation is there. I thought that is the way it was going to be done.
"Otherwise, I will simply set the dyno order in the order the deposits were received, no exceptions"
That is what i thought!
"Otherwise, I will simply set the dyno order in the order the deposits were received, no exceptions"
That is what i thought!
Having said that, I figured it would be nice to try and help out some of the guys who had unique situations, until everyone wanted to jump in with how their situation is unique as well.
So in short, if someone can volunteer for a dyno and possibly continued w/ street tune, that would leave us sitting pretty. And I'm sure Kenny & Greg would be most appreciative. The question is, who's going to be so kind?
~Ramy
04-17-07, 04:37 PM
#103
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hey guys after talking with greg he has decided to go ahead ad get a street tunning done , so I hope this helps out a bit . I thought I read somewhere that Steve has some help with him ???
Thanks in advance
Va
Thanks in advance
Va
04-18-07, 01:06 AM
#105
Ok, so here's the list. Please let me know if you want to make any changes...
SATURDAY
1) George "Kenny" Rogers (VaGambler): 90 GTU with S5TII with a mild port with 3 mm seals, stock setup. Preferrably first, so you can have time to be ready to be tuned again at the end of the day
2) Mahlon Atwood (2gslse): Streetported FD, RX6A single turbo, FMIC, 550primary/1600 secondary, PFC w/ 3 bar map sensor. Tune to 15-16 psi
3) Brian Walter (turbodrx7): FC w/ T-66, stock ports, Microtech LT8S, 15psi
4) Vladimir Barr (Max_Spd): FD, HKS T04R, 10-16psi
5) George "Kenny" Rogers (VaGambler) again: 90 GTU with S5TII with a mild port with 3 mm seals. Turbo size? Injectors? How many maps?
6) Greg May (gmizzle): S4 TII with 850 injectors, ported intake, stock turbo, FMIC, running a Microtech LT 10. Greg, plz note that the additional late deposit surcharge will still apply, even though you're going on Saturday.
SUNDAY
7) Continuation of 6th car from Saturday if not complete
8) Nam Hoang (namasan): FD, Vmount, stock twins, PowerFC, datalogit, PLX Wideband-SM-AFR + DM-5 AFR, 12psi
9) phinsn98 - Setup info? Aware of Sunday surcharge?
Thanks,
~Ramy
SATURDAY
1) George "Kenny" Rogers (VaGambler): 90 GTU with S5TII with a mild port with 3 mm seals, stock setup. Preferrably first, so you can have time to be ready to be tuned again at the end of the day
2) Mahlon Atwood (2gslse): Streetported FD, RX6A single turbo, FMIC, 550primary/1600 secondary, PFC w/ 3 bar map sensor. Tune to 15-16 psi
3) Brian Walter (turbodrx7): FC w/ T-66, stock ports, Microtech LT8S, 15psi
4) Vladimir Barr (Max_Spd): FD, HKS T04R, 10-16psi
5) George "Kenny" Rogers (VaGambler) again: 90 GTU with S5TII with a mild port with 3 mm seals. Turbo size? Injectors? How many maps?
6) Greg May (gmizzle): S4 TII with 850 injectors, ported intake, stock turbo, FMIC, running a Microtech LT 10. Greg, plz note that the additional late deposit surcharge will still apply, even though you're going on Saturday.
SUNDAY
7) Continuation of 6th car from Saturday if not complete
8) Nam Hoang (namasan): FD, Vmount, stock twins, PowerFC, datalogit, PLX Wideband-SM-AFR + DM-5 AFR, 12psi
9) phinsn98 - Setup info? Aware of Sunday surcharge?
Thanks,
~Ramy
04-18-07, 08:19 PM
#106
David Bern (phinsn98): FD M2 SMIC, M2 Intake, stock twins, PowerFC, downpipe, HFC, RB Dual tip, HKS twin power, 550 primaries, 1300cc secondaries, Blitz I-Color with wide band module tuned to 14psi.
I'm aware there is a surcharge if I'm going to be dyno tuned but I expect to be street tuned and that charge will not apply. Please let me know if I'm correct.
I'm aware there is a surcharge if I'm going to be dyno tuned but I expect to be street tuned and that charge will not apply. Please let me know if I'm correct.
04-19-07, 01:53 PM
#107
You are correct. If you get street tuned, your dyno price+surcharge does not apply. It only applys if you are paying for dyno time, which you arnt. Well best news in a while, finally figured out my stuttering problem, and the car is running perfect. Now i have 1 week to put 500miles on it haha. We are leaving here around 8 am. Looks like about 1.5 hrs. See you guys there!
04-19-07, 03:03 PM
#108
turbodrx7, if you're saying 500 miles b/c you have a new motor, please make sure you break in the motor properly. That's VERY important for the motor's longevity. Here's the CORRECT procedure...(courtesy of Jimlab).
The typical recommended break-in procedure is to vary rpm, always with light to medium throttle, for the first 500-1,000 miles, and change the oil at the same interval to minimize damage by machining or resurfacing debris. You should not just take a long trip and keep the engine in one gear for hundreds of miles, in other words. Normal "street" operation is better, where you'd be accelerating lightly through the first few gears, slowing down, idling, starting out again, etc. but you can vary rpm by changing gears periodically if your only choice is a highway break in.
Varying load is the key to making the engine break in. Heat cycling is ridiculous, because once the engine reaches operating temperature, the heat range of operation is a relatively narrow window. Heat cycling is what you do to condition track tires.
Contrary to popular belief, varying load has little to do with rpm...it has more to do with gearing. Think of trying to pedal a 10-speed bicycle up a hill. If you have it in 1st gear, it would be very easy to pedal, right? Not much effort required, and the pedals move relatively fast, but progress is slow. If you put it in 10th gear, you'd find that pedal effort is vastly increased, pedal movement is slow, but if you had enough power to get up the hill in that speed, you'd do it quickly. Basically, you're making the engine work harder to move the car in higher gears because the load is higher.
So basically lots of short trips within the city
~Ramy
The typical recommended break-in procedure is to vary rpm, always with light to medium throttle, for the first 500-1,000 miles, and change the oil at the same interval to minimize damage by machining or resurfacing debris. You should not just take a long trip and keep the engine in one gear for hundreds of miles, in other words. Normal "street" operation is better, where you'd be accelerating lightly through the first few gears, slowing down, idling, starting out again, etc. but you can vary rpm by changing gears periodically if your only choice is a highway break in.
Varying load is the key to making the engine break in. Heat cycling is ridiculous, because once the engine reaches operating temperature, the heat range of operation is a relatively narrow window. Heat cycling is what you do to condition track tires.
Contrary to popular belief, varying load has little to do with rpm...it has more to do with gearing. Think of trying to pedal a 10-speed bicycle up a hill. If you have it in 1st gear, it would be very easy to pedal, right? Not much effort required, and the pedals move relatively fast, but progress is slow. If you put it in 10th gear, you'd find that pedal effort is vastly increased, pedal movement is slow, but if you had enough power to get up the hill in that speed, you'd do it quickly. Basically, you're making the engine work harder to move the car in higher gears because the load is higher.
So basically lots of short trips within the city
~Ramy
04-19-07, 04:18 PM
#109
Its the clutch ramy, a new ACT street/strip. And you can call me austin 
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
turbodrx7, if you're saying 500 miles b/c you have a new motor, please make sure you break in the motor properly. That's VERY important for the motor's longevity. Here's the CORRECT procedure...(courtesy of Jimlab).
The typical recommended break-in procedure is to vary rpm, always with light to medium throttle, for the first 500-1,000 miles, and change the oil at the same interval to minimize damage by machining or resurfacing debris. You should not just take a long trip and keep the engine in one gear for hundreds of miles, in other words. Normal "street" operation is better, where you'd be accelerating lightly through the first few gears, slowing down, idling, starting out again, etc. but you can vary rpm by changing gears periodically if your only choice is a highway break in.
Varying load is the key to making the engine break in. Heat cycling is ridiculous, because once the engine reaches operating temperature, the heat range of operation is a relatively narrow window. Heat cycling is what you do to condition track tires.
Contrary to popular belief, varying load has little to do with rpm...it has more to do with gearing. Think of trying to pedal a 10-speed bicycle up a hill. If you have it in 1st gear, it would be very easy to pedal, right? Not much effort required, and the pedals move relatively fast, but progress is slow. If you put it in 10th gear, you'd find that pedal effort is vastly increased, pedal movement is slow, but if you had enough power to get up the hill in that speed, you'd do it quickly. Basically, you're making the engine work harder to move the car in higher gears because the load is higher.
So basically lots of short trips within the city
~Ramy
The typical recommended break-in procedure is to vary rpm, always with light to medium throttle, for the first 500-1,000 miles, and change the oil at the same interval to minimize damage by machining or resurfacing debris. You should not just take a long trip and keep the engine in one gear for hundreds of miles, in other words. Normal "street" operation is better, where you'd be accelerating lightly through the first few gears, slowing down, idling, starting out again, etc. but you can vary rpm by changing gears periodically if your only choice is a highway break in.
Varying load is the key to making the engine break in. Heat cycling is ridiculous, because once the engine reaches operating temperature, the heat range of operation is a relatively narrow window. Heat cycling is what you do to condition track tires.
Contrary to popular belief, varying load has little to do with rpm...it has more to do with gearing. Think of trying to pedal a 10-speed bicycle up a hill. If you have it in 1st gear, it would be very easy to pedal, right? Not much effort required, and the pedals move relatively fast, but progress is slow. If you put it in 10th gear, you'd find that pedal effort is vastly increased, pedal movement is slow, but if you had enough power to get up the hill in that speed, you'd do it quickly. Basically, you're making the engine work harder to move the car in higher gears because the load is higher.
So basically lots of short trips within the city
~Ramy
04-20-07, 10:32 PM
#111
Attn: Everyone with microtech ECUs make sure you have the module to for connecting a laptop to the ECU. Steve needs this to tune, and does not have one. I believe you also need this module to change maps as well.
-Dan
Just a final count here....who wants street tuning?
-Dan
Just a final count here....who wants street tuning?
04-21-07, 12:17 AM
#112
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will someone explain to me how street tunning might be better than dynoing ??? yes i am real currious about HP #'s but it was said some where that street tuning might be better for race prep .
Any info would be a huge help .
Greg may is requesting a street tunning
Any info would be a huge help .
Greg may is requesting a street tunning
04-21-07, 09:50 AM
#113
Well there are ups and downs to both. Steve is very good at what he does, and he will make both pretty much the same. On the dyno, its obviously harder to get drivabilty, since he does have the REAL load of the car(depending on how well the dynos are set). But while on the dyno, if something breaks, and you need to fix it, you have all the tools right there. On a street tune, your kinda screwed. Last year when we were street tuning the fc, we blew an intercooler coupler off. We just happened to not have a screw driver and we had to use an adjustable wrench. It would have been alot faster if we were in the dyno room. If you are going to street tune, know the precautions. YES you have to make full 4th gear pulls, which is very far over the speed limit. Ramy sais he knows of a place that will be safer, but that doesnt mean you wont be pulled over. If you are going to get street tuned, let someone know so we can have another 2 cars on saturday, and you can be bumped to last for street tuning.
04-21-07, 10:32 AM
#114
I'll also clarify something. The DEFAULT is dyno tuning, and ONLY cars that aren't finished within the allotted time will be street tuned. This isn't optional because...
1) There's a high risk of getting caught in this area while doing WOT runs, and neither Steve, Dan, nor myself want to be associated w/ jailtime for reckless driving, racing, or excessive display of power.
2) The thread and pricing was based on dyno times
3) I've already paid over a grand out of pocket to reserve the dyno for BOTH days, and I still have some balance I must pay on the day of. I'm not taking a hit out of pocket, so the dyno WILL be used for the allotted time, and those who signed up WILL be covering those costs.
I thought I'd make that clear. Working for free is one thing, but I'm not going out of pocket too
Thanks,
~Ramy
1) There's a high risk of getting caught in this area while doing WOT runs, and neither Steve, Dan, nor myself want to be associated w/ jailtime for reckless driving, racing, or excessive display of power.
2) The thread and pricing was based on dyno times
3) I've already paid over a grand out of pocket to reserve the dyno for BOTH days, and I still have some balance I must pay on the day of. I'm not taking a hit out of pocket, so the dyno WILL be used for the allotted time, and those who signed up WILL be covering those costs.
I thought I'd make that clear. Working for free is one thing, but I'm not going out of pocket too
Thanks,
~Ramy
04-22-07, 03:05 PM
#118
Originally Posted by phinsn98
Ramy, I'm backing out. Use the money I gave you towards a set of new 99 series tail lights. I'll pay you the difference. Drop me a line.
-Dan
04-22-07, 05:19 PM
#119
Dan,
There is not one statement, sentence or phrase within this post that states that my deposit is not refundable.
I appreciate all the hard work that has gone into organizing this but this session has become a huge struggle for me and I unfortunately will not be able to make it.
I'd just assume stay home, wish you all a successful run, and wait for my 99 SPEC tail lights in the mail.
Thanks,
Dave
There is not one statement, sentence or phrase within this post that states that my deposit is not refundable.
I appreciate all the hard work that has gone into organizing this but this session has become a huge struggle for me and I unfortunately will not be able to make it.
I'd just assume stay home, wish you all a successful run, and wait for my 99 SPEC tail lights in the mail.
Thanks,
Dave
Originally Posted by Scrub
That deposit was for the tuning session, to hold your spot. If you decide to back out then guess what, you lose the deposit....Unless Ramy has something to say otherwise, or you can get someone to fill your position.
-Dan
-Dan
04-22-07, 05:52 PM
#120
Dan is right. Hate it or not, that was your deposit for YOUR spot, which pretty much means that if we end up getting all the cars but your done, ramy is out all the money for sundays prepaid dyno time. You cant just put up your deposit, then back out. Thats not how it works.