Friends.
I am after all information on which is the best possible combination off stock mazda rotary intermediate and front and rear plates to use in a rebuild.Which are the stock plates with the best runners etcc.I have heard off R5 13B old style plates etcc.

All links and info is welcome.I dont want to port my plates and looking for the best combo on stock plates mazda made.

thanks and you can e-mail me to: maury_wiels@yahoo.com

 

I would vote all 13b-re plates from the 91-up JDM cosmo. You can get the engine for $1000 in longblock form and sell off everything you dont need. Or get the plates only from Japan2la, he always has sets in stock. The runners move massive air if you are trying to go for 210+ rwhp.

 

Where can you find REs For $1000? The cheapest i have found them is for around $1500 shipped.

 

Just watch for them on ebay, I have bought three of them for $1000. I didnt mean with shipping.

 

I got my set of low mileage FD irons for my bridged N/A for $250

 

Friends.
can you give me more details on stock power on these FD plates you talk about ? Whats the combination to use,rotors etccc.I want to go carby and not injection.

All info with any pictures welcome.

 

Same here, I would doing a N/A set up using a weber, and plan to port the plates (Street port, maybe bridge) any info/pics on the plates would be tons of help! thanks!

 

my 2 cents:

just throw a high compression rotating assembly into an '89+ Turbo block (whichever is easiest for you to get) you'll be fine. you may want to do some runner work just to get rid of some of the flash, but you won't HAVE TO port.

 

i met a guy talking about using FD housings with TII end plates and a renesis center plate. supposedly makes great power and is already being ran in PR. not sure though...but a lot of inovative and crazy combos come from people in PR and austraila...

sounds a little wierd to me though. remember, the renesis has the exhaust port on the plates.

 

and also remember that the water seals are in different locations ... however, people that race and/or have the resources for R&D find ways around these "minor" obstacles all the time in the name of power and competitive times.

 

I went with the 12a center(big runners) and T2 end plates. filled oring grooves where needed and your gtg. I used old school 13b rotor housings.

 

your right... the 12a has huge primary ports. bigger than an REW. what did you have to do to make it work?

 

you are not going to find s5 T2 stuff in good condition easily. I vote for 13B-RE:





smaller one is s4 T2

 

I made 215whp.
51 weber home made.
FD irons bridge ported @ home
RB FD intake for weber carb
S4 rotor assy.
T2 S4 rotor housing poerted for turbo eng. (thats what I had)
RB header , Y collector with megaphone (outlet 3 1/2'')
dynomax muffler
lightweight steel flywheel.

but I didn't use the 13bre plates because I wanted to keep stock eng mount position. my car is an FD.
I didn't use S5 rotors because they are to hard & expensive to find.
anyway I have a set of FD bridge ported iron plates and S5 scallop rotors done by CLR. can't wait to built and see how many HP will I gain.

 

can you not use the high comp rotors out of an RX8 in something like a S4 NA or S5 NA? 8's have like a 10:1 comp ratio. and then also use the 8's e-shaft since it's a full 1 pound lighter and cheaper then any other. i'm speaking strictly for a NA engine here because that's what he is asking about.

 

there hasnt been any really advantages in HP for the rx8 rotors in older 13bs. but they are lighter. so this is a big advantage. the higher compression wasnt really done for the power increase. it was mostly a emissions thing...

for me, i like the renesis all the way. 236 NA unported and completely stock! people have made 260 with intake, exhaust, and a tune! and people are bridging these now!

cant beat it...

 

So, if I use S4 N/A irons, S5 N/A rotors, S4 e-shaft, and rtek 2.0, with medium streetport, I'd be making ok power, and also reliablility will be ok because of its compression? Lets say that I get it properly tuned, so it won't be a huge deal about the tune.

I read on another thread that if you weigh an engine with an Rx8 e-shaft, it doesn't really do much. But I'd still feel good about saving a pound!

 

Lonetlan, you should use your high mileage s4 engine with the rtek. Just clean up the ports a little when you rebuild it. You should focus on your engine instead of asking a hypothetical question.(not)

 

.6lbs*

 

higher comp would raise the emissions, NoX would go up noticably along with HC because you'd be putting more fuel in to try and cool the charge down. i believe they raised it for the power increase and isn't 236hp what Mazda claimed in the beginning and then offered people money back because it didn't even crack 200 on a real dyno?