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streetable na build

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Old 01-11-12, 03:36 PM
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so far so good. for the oil pan I like to use an Epoxy Appliance Paint, it is more durable. Or POR-15 which is really durable.

good luck with the teardown dude!
Old 01-11-12, 06:14 PM
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what kind of porting templates are you planing on using?
Old 01-11-12, 10:03 PM
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I'll be using the Mazdatrix Streetport template. Porting tools will be Racingbeat. I'm skepticle about using stone grinders from the local parts store, and I would rather use good tools for a good result than I would pieces of dump that I don't even know how well they would work.
Old 01-12-12, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by REAmemiya_fan
I'll be using the Mazdatrix Streetport template. Porting tools will be Racingbeat. I'm skepticle about using stone grinders from the local parts store, and I would rather use good tools for a good result than I would pieces of dump that I don't even know how well they would work.
bits are bits, you just eat through the cheap ones quicker.
Old 01-14-12, 09:05 AM
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Hey guys I have been pondering on this... Should I go with a four port setup and do a semi bridge port, or stick with the six port setup and do the street port? Ive been hearing that a four port will make more power?
Old 01-15-12, 09:39 AM
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oh yeah 4 port half bridge port will make crazy power for NA
Old 01-15-12, 10:46 AM
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What would my options be as far as intake manifolds then? I really don't want to have to spend crazy money on a setup just yet.
Old 01-15-12, 11:04 AM
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are you running a carb or fuel injection?
Old 01-15-12, 01:02 PM
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Fuel injection. Would it be cheaper/easier to go carb? Assuming I have to learn how to tune a carb, but there are a lot of people around here That would know how to teach me that.
Old 01-15-12, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by REAmemiya_fan
Fuel injection. Would it be cheaper/easier to go carb? Assuming I have to learn how to tune a carb, but there are a lot of people around here That would know how to teach me that.
carb vs efi is almost the same money. with the carb you need to buy jets, and emulsion tubes and stuff, and it adds up. for example a 48IDA weber is $450 new, but you need to replace all the jets/emulsion tubes which is another $200, and then if you didn't guess right the first time, you get to buy more.

so the weber is $450, but by the time its running on the car, its closer to $800.

so megasquirt vs weber, the weber is maybe $50 less?
Old 01-15-12, 01:45 PM
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with a 4 port you can run the T2 manifolds and TB. I just happen to have a set for sale
Old 01-15-12, 03:51 PM
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hmmmmmm, how much are you asking? Would I be able to run the stock air box or should I run just some intercooler piping to a filter without the afm or anything since it would be bridge and run a standalone? Which, speaking of, what is a good beginner standalone?
Old 01-15-12, 04:34 PM
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yeah if you run the stand alone you can just fab something up and run the filter off the end on the drivers side Also have a fresh set of S5 T2 injectors that I can sell with it.
Manifolds I want 135 plus shipping that includes the TPS censor form a S5 T2 and the injectors if you are interested for another $200
Old 01-15-12, 06:38 PM
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Hmmm I may nibble. I'll pm you. BTW, if i switch to this setup, would I buy a turbo rebuild kit as apposed to an na? Also, how much different is an s4 na center iron than an s5 turbo iron? Are they interchangable? Could i use it with any rebuild kit?
Old 01-15-12, 06:47 PM
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you can use a NA one but not recomended since the port is a whole lot smaller. I got a set of 4 port turbo plates as so happens
Old 01-15-12, 08:20 PM
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Alright we will see how things go. I need a new center iron as it is anyway, I forgot about that. Like i said, ill pm you in a few hours here, im out of the house.

Back to the standalone, that stuff is really confusing to me, and i wouldnt even know where to start. Would a haltech or megasquirt be a better choice? Those are the two I have been somewhat leaning towards.
Old 01-15-12, 08:40 PM
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halltech is way mroe superior to megasquirt, but megasquirt is a whole lot cheaper and can do about everything you need if it was turbo then I would not even consider the megasquirt or just say screw it and get a weber 48 from RB and set
Old 01-15-12, 08:57 PM
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Definitely go halfbridge. I have a streetported 4-port 13B (carbed) with a full RB exhaust that was a nice kick up from the stockport 12A but a month in I was craving more power. After I redo the exhaust I'm going to pull it apart in a year or two and half bridge it. If you can scrape up the money, get the assembly balanced and lightened too. I'm only revving to 7K which is the stock limit for the GSL-SE rotating assembly that I'm using because I didn't think to have it balanced and lightened. I feel like I threw money away because I didn't have this stuff done when the engine was built the first time.

Even the assembled Megasquirts are cheaper than a Haltech, and will do what you need it to just fine.
Old 01-15-12, 10:19 PM
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yeah im using s4 rotors not as slight as the s5 but a whole heck of a lot lighter than the s3 one by like a pound a peace.
Old 01-16-12, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by REAmemiya_fan
Alright we will see how things go. I need a new center iron as it is anyway, I forgot about that. Like i said, ill pm you in a few hours here, im out of the house.

Back to the standalone, that stuff is really confusing to me, and i wouldnt even know where to start. Would a haltech or megasquirt be a better choice? Those are the two I have been somewhat leaning towards.
IMO the hatech is a little simpler. i've done haltechs for years, and the megasquirt is confusing, mostly because there are so many variations.

however the haltechs are don't work as well, plenty of cars that just go thru engines for seemingly no reason. the way that the ignition is handled in the haltechs doesn't work well for our cars, and the rotary actually has a really complex ignition, so its bad.

a third choice might be a power FC, its almost plug and play.
Old 01-16-12, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
carb vs efi is almost the same money. with the carb you need to buy jets, and emulsion tubes and stuff, and it adds up. for example a 48IDA weber is $450 new, but you need to replace all the jets/emulsion tubes which is another $200, and then if you didn't guess right the first time, you get to buy more.

so the weber is $450, but by the time its running on the car, its closer to $800.

so megasquirt vs weber, the weber is maybe $50 less?

yeah if you buy a new carb but there are tons floating around, likely already tuned pretty close to your application.

I got my Mikuni with manifold, some jets and a rebuild kit for about 250-300 total. I think Weber and Mikuni have application charts that show required jets, sure you may want a few extras near that size for your specific build
Old 01-16-12, 01:04 PM
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I got a 45 DCOE I will be pushing the carb on that motor but it should work fine.
Old 01-17-12, 04:37 PM
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i know the may seem like i dont kow much but what is ITB
Old 01-17-12, 08:09 PM
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Individual throttle bodies
Old 01-24-12, 05:12 AM
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Dear REAmemiya_fan,

It feels I have been lurking on the forums forever, since my first FC (R.I.P), without ever saying much. I never felt like I had anything to contribute. I've read all of this thread and your previous one (repairing accident damage, etc) and you sir have my total respect. You're going places in this world my friend. You have inspired me to really fix my car. Always wanted it to work properly, but now I'm going to do a whole lot more to it, and I'm going to take my time. Also, I'm going to try to be a pic ***** like you haha.

I'll be getting my car back Friday, and if you're interested look out for my '87 N/A (Re)Build thread next week. Right now, its a total pile of junk. Hopefully in a couple of months someone might look at it without thinking it belongs in a junkyard.

Thank you very much for taking the time to share and utilize the forums!

Also thank you Zoil, because I had no idea what they were talking about either.


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