CobraS89

hey thanks for the pics i might think about doing that but the only thing bad about that is if you hit a puddle of water or some **** your car will get flooded...

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to metion that.... I live in socal so no worries, but you can leave in the brake duct and mount the filter between the wheel well and and the bumper, It will sit right above the brake duct.You loose some of the ram air aspect, but it still is a nice cold area to pull intake air from. I have researched this spot alot, and it seems, even in the heavy rains of florida, to be fine in wet weather.

fcdrifter13

Besides an exhaust a Standalone like a megasquirt is the biggest bang for the buck mod. $400 for the unit set up and another 150-160$ to have it tuned, you would see a getter overall gain with a standalone setup correctly than a simple intake design, and by simple and cost effective I mean simpy porting the stock intake and removing anything that is not needed.

CobraS89

ahh ok i see

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

So your saying, exhaust and standalone, before a CID/intake setup? How does that make any sense? So you follow your method, get the stand alone for 400 bucks, who is going to install it? That is more money. Who do you know that will tune a stand alone for 160? No one I know that I would trust. So lets say you do all of that, now your intake is a major restriction, especially since now with the SA you wont need a AFM. So let get that done........ now guess what, time to go back and get it re tuned. That is the flaw....besides the pricing quoted.

This is all my personal opinion.

CobraS89

i am going to agree with socalrotor

fcdrifter13

OK he is looking for simple ways to make some NA power, simple is most usually cheap and he is an FC owner and we are all ******* cheap anyways. The standalone is the Megasquirt unit sold by people here on the forums, it plugs into the stock harness and is basically plug and play, tuning would be done by defined autoworks it is 148$ an hour so I undervalued that, again a vendor on this forum.

The most restrictive part of the intake setup is the MAF and the standalone gets rid of that, and my statement was under the intention that all manifold porting to match gaskets and such has been done.

So again I say a standalone is the best bang for the buck.

SDrotary-FC

that k&n intake is just a maf adaptor an filter (not the pipe)

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

So your saying a MS and tuning is better bang for the buck and more cost effective than a CAI......ok so in one hour of tuning @ 185 will tune a car from base to better numbers that stock. Yeah, but you said yourself that now the intake has to be done. At a minimum the AFM need to be removed as we both agree. So my point is it is far cheaper, and mostly DIY to do a nice CID, and to port match, all it takes is time a dremel and gaskets. I can see your point that a SA is a much better way to make power, but dollar for dollar it is not more cost effective IMO.Price break down...your figures, A MS is 400 bucks, a tune is 185. My cold air intake cost me under 60 bucks and a weekend. add a gasket or two @5 bucks a pop. Dont have a dremel, the cheaper ones are 50 bucks. Dont have tools, sears have a set for 99 bucks. Now do we really have to do the math?! Even if you have to buy everything you will need, you still are under half a MS and tuning.

fcdrifter13

A CIA on a fc is pretty much pointless the gains are stupid tiny if noticeable at all, as you still have the stock maf in the way. When you go standalone you can just take off the MAF and put a filter on the end of the TB. And besides the AFM the stock air box and piping is really not all that restrictive. The gains I have seen from a CIA setup are 3-7hp, where as the gains from a standalone are 20+, and its not just the power the motor runs so much better, revs even smoother, and has a fatter powerband.

And yes I believe with only an hour of tuning you can achieve way better numbers than stock and improve you MPGs at the same time. The stock maps on the stock ECU are pig rich, and the timing maps are meh. Just the saved gas over a year would pay for the setup itself.

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

So how is the TS going to get his car to the shop a state away for this great tuning deal....LMAO!
So what do you have to back up any of that? The statement that a CIA is pointless is laughable. I think i might be done with this thread. You TRY to debate my points, but have nothing to back up your points, and you keep repeating the obvious with the MAF. If you bothered to read the opening post0 you would see that a question was presented, and you have YET to argue the point that a MS and tuning is better dollar for dollar that a CAI. You cant, common sense is obvious(or so I though) and hard to debate, as your proving. You never saw the pics of my set up so how the hell can you argue?

I still cant get around the fact you would do exhaust, then MS, then CAI.....this makes ZERO sense, and is no way cheaper that a intake.(as I have already broken down for you). You didn't mention you need a re tune or the cost involved in tuning. I think 180 is far too cheap for a new setup, let alone if it is available. where the TS lives.

fcdrifter13

There are plenty of threads proving time and time again that a CIA on these cars is not worth the time or effort to build or buy. A drop in filter on the stock setup has been proven to give the same amount of power increase for even less money. I mean does you setup imply the use of different pressure zones to increase the amount of air and lower your intake temps a noticeable amount to show any kind of increase in performance over the stock setup besides a better flowing filter. No you dont, if you do lease post u some pics of your setup. But yours will be like everyone elses, a shiny tube coming from your TB that has a TB mod(lol shitty driveability with 0 gain other than being simpler to work on) and then you will have a heat shield behind the passenger headlight with no duct work for outside air to enter the filter area. You've turned a good intake setup that pull slightly cool air from the outside into a intake that pulls air from the engine bay because of improper ductwork, and lets not even go into if by some magical way you do pull some cool air into the filter its just going to be heated up again by the metal pipe that is storing the exhaust heat. so the purpose of this "CAI" is no doing worse for your engine. So youve wasted money that could have went to more useful mods like a Stand alone which is an upgrade that will not change through your intake setups, exhaust changes, or engine swaps because it can be adapted to everything.

SDrotary-FC

i dont think a standalone is considered a "simple" way to make power in a N/A

gasket matching/home made cold air/etc is a simple mod. (you can also pop open the AFM and lean it out a lil.) on a stock port the AFM is not that bad.

my simple ways are-
tune up your **** (fuel filter/plugs/wire/inj cleaned)
home made cat back ( spend your $$ on a good muffler and do it your self or find a buddy who can weld) make sure 6 ports work
home made CAI
gasket match
remove everything you dont need
if you have some left over header wrap use it to keep under hood temps down
pin. racing 6 port sleeves
make sure your grounds are solid.
fab a pipe to replace the pre cat (8-10hp)

all of these can be done for cheap and easy ($400-500 total if you do it your self)

fcdrifter13

Im not to sure you can get any simpler than plugging in a computer and driving to a shop to get a tune done.

SDrotary-FC

i think when he means simple he means cheap..lol

Burnin_streets

+1

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

The highlight section proves your lack of reading comprehension .......and your a moron, so let me help your sorry *** out since you cant seem to grasp the idea....
"Here ia a cheap DYI upgrade for a CID, remove the windshield cleaner reservoir in front of the pass tire. enlarge the hole that the filler neck passes through and use the space for a cold air set up coming off the AFM. I rubber mounted my AFM to the strut tower. PM me if you want pics, they are too large to upload. Oh I forgot, I used pipe insulating foam tape for a heat shield(and sealer) I got from home depot. The piping I used was for gas exhaust ducting for water heaters. It was 3" diameter, flexible and sealed. I spend less that 40 bucks if I remember right! Made a very noticeable difference in power." Now i am done with you....but here is my last ditch effort to help you, dont be scared the link works son..........www.hookedonphonics.com

CobraS89

hahaha i am of no part of this argument

CobraS89

so is it true for the 13b you have to add a little bit of oil every 150 miles? i read it in my rx-7 rebuild book.

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

Not necessarily, the opening "important preliminary information" states, " It is normal for your rotary engine to consume a slight amount of oil, since the gas seals are lubricated be metering oil into the combustion chambers. the oil consumption rate varies depending on the driving conditions (e.g. hard driving, mountain driving, on a highway, in a city, in heavy traffic, and in varying traffic). Because of these variables, it is possible that the oil consumption rate might be as high as 500 miles/qt." Quoted word for word from my 87 owners manual. It also tells you to check it at every fuel stop. But on normal driving, 1 quart per 3000 miles is normal for s4. S5 on up has a better OMP so they use less. I dont know off the top of my head how much less though. I pre- mix both my cars so I dont run a OMP. The rotary design relies heavily on the oil to keep them cool, so keeping topped off has it benefits to keeping oil temps down. Hope this helps ya.

CobraS89

yeah it helps i was just wondering because when i bought it the guy said you have to add a little bit of oil every once in a while and i was like ohh crap it burns oil. but then i actually read that rotary engines consume oil like that. so im guessing on the highway it uses more oil?

also when my engine backfires my friend he said he saw a flame come out of the exhaust...is that normal for rotaries? mine was streetported so i dont know if that is a factor

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

Basically, when it comes to oil consumption, the more your on the gas, the more oil you will use. High rpm uses alot more that low rpm because the oil injectors run off of vacuum, that is metered by the rod mounted on the TB linkage that goes down towards the pulleys.
Flames are normal with the rotary engines if you dont have any cats. Heres a video of my sport model.....http://videos.streetfire.net/video/8...Scar_18347.htm

CobraS89

oh ok damn yours shoots out some big flames

Acroy

iTrader: (3)

agreed. there is so much junk on this thread it is head-shaking sad...
I'd add that at used $150 SAFC is a good way to add cheap ponies to n/a.
Cheers

CobraS89

does anyone know if a turbo s5 manual transmission can bolt up to an N/A engine? because my trans grinds going into 5th gear and i just recently changed the gear fluid and that was not the issue and i just need to know because i was thinking about swapping it out.