Anyone got a spare Racing beat 13B 6port intake with a holley carb set up? PM me

 

Hey guys, just wanted to pick your brains for a bit. I'm ordering a carb kit for my FC this week and I'm trying to decide which style of carb is best for my needs.

I've heard the DCOE carbs are good but very cold-blooded even in warm climates and that the IDA carbs are best for power.

Can anyone expand on that or verify it? I love the look of the side-draft set-up but I'm really wanting to ditch my stock 6port manifold and with an IDA carb I can do that. I'm thinking it'll save weight and might reduce that cold-start issue??

Any input on that?

p.s. I also had planned on keeping the stock ECU and just using the CAS with my FC coil packs. The reason I didn't want to switch was because the FC coil packs are supposedly so good. It's been my experience in the past you always want the best ignition system when running a carb set-up to ensure a proper burn.

 

My UIM adapter condensates on the outside, its cold to the touch before the engine bay warms up with the DCOE, but it also works flawlessly in 15 degree weather when ice racing.

As long as it has a choke its good, otherwise its a hassle.

 

the IDA and DCOE are basically the same except the DCOE is on its side and has a choke. the IDA by default runs a shorter intake, which should be better for high rpm power, versus the longer intake which should give a stronger midrange. it does depend on port style and exhaust, somewhat.

i have no trouble at all with cold starts on the P port, it does need a foot on the gas for 30 seconds or so before it idles on its own, but any carb is like that with no choke...

 

I considered this also...but believe that then you would have to maintain the Mass Air Flow sensor.

 

i hate to bring up such an old thread but didnt really want to start a new one one the subject i just wanted to know if i use the stock ecu for ignition with a holley setup will the ecu still advance/retard the time with just the crank angle sensor hooked up.

 

Bump! ^ I'm with him please more info on the stock ecu being used on a carb set up

 

If you were to run this your going to need to fab up a mount for the tps and most likely run the airflow meter so the ecu can measure load and adjust timing to suit, it would work easier with a fd ecu as it uses a map sensor. its alot of work to do without much benefit

 

gotcha, would you have to change anything to use the FD ecu? I have a 88 vert with 13b that I'm trying to switch to use a carb. I've been collecting parts slowly but I do like my rb Holley intake but need suggestions on carbs.

 

It wouldn't be easy to switch to a fd ecu as the crank trigger is very different and these ecus are quite involved as far as wiring goes, sorry but theres not really an easy answer if you want timing advance/retard control

 

It would be easier to source a 1985 or a European model distributor and use a Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold for the vacuum timing advance. Check the wiring diagrams to wire up the igniters on the dizzy and use two coils for the spark.

Or run without vacuum advance and lock the timing in the dizzy. Just search this forum or AusRotary for more details on this.

 

well im getting my fpr saturday and im going to put it all together and ill let u guys who are interested how it works out.

 

i know this old thread but i just wanted to let it be known the stock ecu will support ignition with just cas hooked up with no problems iv been running it this way for almost 3 months with no ill affects.

 

this is actually good news. would you care to share some general details of what you did to get it all to play nice together? i suppose the type of carbie is irrelevant, but you can include what carbie you're using as well.

 

im ACTUALLY USEING A HOLLEY 600 VACUUM SECONDARY CONVERTED TO DBL PUMP BUT UR RIGHT IT DOESNT MATTER WHICH CARB YOU DECIDE TO USE.THE HOLE INSTALL WAS RATHER EASY U JUST PULLED EVERYTHING OUT THAT HAD TO DO WITH THE FI WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE CAS. YOU WILL HAVE TO RUN THE STOCK FUEL PUMP ON A SWITCH SINCE THE ECU WILL CUT THE POWER TO IT AS SOON AS THE ENGINE STARTS.I USED AN AREOMOTIVE 13301 FPR TO UTILIZE THE STOCK FUEL RETURN LINE BACK TO THE TANK ASLO I DIDNT WANT TO HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE PUMP BURNING OUT DUE TO OVER PRESSUREIZEING. NOW AS FAR AS THE CAS SENORS GOES I JUST SET THE TIMING AS YOU WOULD A 12A WHEN U DELETE THE VACUUM ADVANCE WHEN GOING TURBO AND THE ECM DOESNT CHANGE IT ANY. DEGREE OF TIMEING U SET IT TO MAY DEPEND ON WHICH CARB U DECIDE TO USE NOT REALLY SURE.

 

I ran my race car like this for a year when I was running a 650 DP Holley. What I did was keep the TPS hooked up, but I can't remember if I left the plunger out or tightened down to emulate open throttle. I left the CAS in place and even the left the Airflow meter in place with the flapper pulled back into a wide open position. Basically, I left all the sensors in place to give the ECU the information that the car was at full throttle all the time, so the ignition MAP would reflect that.

For fueling, I ran a Holley Electric Carb style pump and a Holley Fuel pressure regulator. System worked great and if it hadn't continually barfed fuel out the breather tubes at Mosport in Turn 2, I may still be running it.

Hope this helps.

Eric

 

thanks for the input Eric can i ask what type of floats u were running believe it or not i acutally prefer side hung flaots with jet extensions then drilling the floates to act as a baffles then you can run a littles less fuel in the bowls.what im actually planning on is converting to an msd 6al box as soon as i can find a good write up to have the trailing coils firing at the same time as the leading so i only have to run it with one msd box and the cas then i can pull the rest of the harrness and ecm out and hopefully clean up the engine bay some more.

 

The carb was a Holley 650 with center hung floats. They normally would have worked fine, except that on the Racing Beat manifold I was using, the carb was turned 90 degrees and as the car went around a corner, the fuel floats would raise in one bowl and drop in the inside corner bowl. I would end up with the car chugging rich and starving for fuel at the same time. It was a delight and that's why I went for the ITB setup.

Eric

 

Jet extension probably would've helped but glad to hear u got a good setup

 

I had jet extensions and extended bowl vents and the bowl whistle. The issue was that the center hung float Holley Carb float was never designed to be turned 90 degrees and then subjected to sustained 1.5 g's. Same reason a number of cars with Holley's stall when you have super sticky tires and huge brakes. Just depends on angles and G's and that's why most modern racing cars use fuel injection. Pretty much G proof.

Eric