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new motor for the REPU

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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 10:25 PM
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new motor for the REPU

Yesterday we put together the new motor that will be going in the REPU. Color isnt exactly right to match the body but close enough that it will be hard to tell.

This frankenstine motor has S5 T2 end plates, S5 NA intermediate, S5 NA rotors, and FD housings. I will be going with the S5 NA flywheel and balanced the rotating assembly. Porting I went with a large street port on the intake and the exhaust is, well, huge.

I am going to keep the Weber DCO 48 and upgraded to a Carter 72gph@6psi fuel pump. I think this thing should scream when I get it back on the road, just need to figure out how to keep it quiet now as my Magnaflow is pretty well shot.
Attached Thumbnails new motor for the REPU-p1010400.jpg   new motor for the REPU-p1010403.jpg   new motor for the REPU-p1010408-1.jpg  
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 01:31 AM
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sweeeet.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 01:56 AM
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looks really good! you've gotta be sure to get some shots of the motor in the truck.

keeping it quiet? the rear pan is critical, yes, but i've found the key is in the mid-section. i can't speak on the Magnaflow mufflers, but i can speak on the RB presilencers and DynoMax (Walker) mufflers as mid-sections. get 1 or 2 of those and you'll be set.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 10:57 AM
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Thanks, I will look into your muffler suggestions. That Magnaflow was very loud and I would drive with ear plugs it droned so bad. Anything to tame it will be quite nice
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 03:27 PM
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Damn thats badass! Curious as to why you didnt use the t2 center iron?
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 04:00 PM
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Nice.
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Latin270
Damn thats badass! Curious as to why you didnt use the t2 center iron?

Because I didnt have one, and I ported it any way so it didnt really matter too much.

Its almost ready to go in now, just need to pull the old motor. I think turn around time for the motor swap will be about 4 hours. So easy when you run a Weber carb!
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom93R1
Because I didnt have one, and I ported it any way so it didnt really matter too much.

Its almost ready to go in now, just need to pull the old motor. I think turn around time for the motor swap will be about 4 hours. So easy when you run a Weber carb!
Just as easy w/ a Holley!
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 09:44 AM
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I just realized I lied about the end plates I used, they were S4 TII (not S5). Mid plate is still S5 NA. Oh well, close enough

Last night the OMP was run. I have the 12a OMP going to the 13b-rew injectors in the housings. I flipped the OMP spring backwards so the OMP springs to fully open, I don't know how much oil the 12a OMP puts out but hopefully not enough to make a smoky mess.
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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Few more pictures
Attached Thumbnails new motor for the REPU-p1010418.jpg   new motor for the REPU-p1010420.jpg   new motor for the REPU-p1010422.jpg   new motor for the REPU-p1010423.jpg   new motor for the REPU-p1010424.jpg  

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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 12:33 PM
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Nice omp lines. Ive never seen that befor. Sweet.
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 02:12 PM
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looks great tom. like the color. now that's an exhaust port!!

two RB presilencers under the cab and a borla after the axle will make it quiet. try to make the pipes collect together after 120" long primary pipes.
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 02:19 PM
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Tom, nice engine you've got going on there. The OMP will possibly flow too much and make a smokey mess so you might want to push it down to the 9 o'clock position to start. The engine will have plenty of oil and/or assembly lube during the first fire up that it will be plenty. Then once it's running for a while you can try opening the OMP up all the way.

I've tried wiring them open to the 9 o'clock position and it works. Idle is rich, WOT is lean, mid throttle is correct. Since you won't be screaming this engine any time soon, maybe you shouldn't run the OMP at full 11 o'clock.

As for the Carter, they fit pretty well in REPUs.

You should get some Borla mufflers.
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 03:06 PM
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Its alive!!! And nowhere near as loud as I expected. Maybe even quieter than the stock NA exhaust ports.

Only problem is I have something rubbing in the bell housing. Maybe the clutch fork rubbing on the S5 N/A pressure plate... So close!
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom93R1
Its alive!!! And nowhere near as loud as I expected. Maybe even quieter than the stock NA exhaust ports.

Only problem is I have something rubbing in the bell housing. Maybe the clutch fork rubbing on the S5 N/A pressure plate... So close!

Is that even possible? Is it a grinding sound your hearing?
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 07:12 PM
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I dont know if thats possible or not, it was just a guess.

It just makes a sound thats hard to explain, then when you push the clutch pedal in the sound stops. Does it in gear driving or sitting in neutral, and the sound is definately coming out of the bell housing. So it pretty much has to be the pressure plate rubbing on something or the throwout bearing is crapping out. I should have replaced that when I had the motor out
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 07:39 PM
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Did you replace the throwout bearing?
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 10:18 PM
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Thats what I was saying, I should have replaced that while it was out. DOH! Oh well, maybe it will be the encouragement that I need to get around to the 5-speed tranny swap
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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Sounds like a throwout bearing or pilot bearing. If you push the clutch in and the noise goes away then most likely a throwout bearing. No biggy these tranny's are a piece of cake to r&r.
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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nice motor tom!

the old school answer to the muffler question (couple of the 80's guys have said the same thing) is to get 2 RB presilencers.

you can put em in series, or run 2 pipes, but 2 RB silencers, and what ever rar muffler keep it quiet enough
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 05:48 PM
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Maybe 2 of those and the Racing Beat universal muffler, wonder how that would sound.
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 06:52 PM
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RB presilencers don't really muffle. They just cut down the high metallic stuff. Two in series isn't going to muffle as much as you think.

Be sure to use thickwall 1/8" pipe. My white truck has thinwall installed by the PO and it sounds pretty bad in the cab. Certain frequencies drone and it's just all around ugly sounding.

My red truck sounds quite a bit better (thickwall, two 24" Rotary Engineering glasspacks). Nice idle and cruise but under load it gets a little throaty. Perfect for most rotorheads. It ends under the bed and I'd like to extend it out under the bumper, maybe with one more short glasspack or something to tone it down under load.
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 03:01 PM
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I will have to look into those rotary engineering glasspacks as well. Currently I just have a 30" magnaflow that I think it pretty much shot now. Also as the motor is breaking in it is now getting very loud! I have my exhaust leaks mostly fixed but the sound out the back is sooooo loud now!
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 03:25 PM
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This thread is a waste without videos.
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 09:31 PM
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tom is a giant mangina
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