My bridgeport project.
#1
My bridgeport project.
Just got my motor together this weekend. Using RB race 12a rebuild kit with the carbon apex seals. I also used their exhaust port template and cleaned the existing b-ports up a little. Engine should be fired up this coming weekend and is going into my rx2 with 4.88 lsd stock rearend and a lightened steel flywheel with a sprung 4 puck brass button clutch and race pressure plate. Exhaust is RB road/race header into a straight 3" exhaust all the way back to a RB 3" stainless free flow muffler. Ignition is stock right now with MSD blaster coils but I am going to install two MSD 6al's soon. Got some bling coming from Australia and hopefull it will be here by this weekend too. I'll post some vid of the start up if all goes well. hehe. My next project will be a 12app so stay tuned. Here are a couple of pics.
#5
Well, I got it running tonight and so far so good. Engine sounds and runs very strong. Need to tune alittle bit. I am running a Weber 48Ida and my jetting is- main-240, air- 170, idle-65, venturi-42mm, and F11 emulsion with a 300 needle. Running MSD fuel pump at 4.5psi regulated of course. Any recommendations on jetting and tunning welcome as I am still pretty green with jetting. This jetting I am using is right out of RB catalogue. Here's a vid as promised.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQygbNzo114
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQygbNzo114
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#8
Thanks. I am still breaking the motor in so I have been taking it easy, although a guy with a motorcycle was next to me at a light this last weekend and wanted to play. So we both got on it in second gear. I pulled hard on him up to about 8500 rpm's and then we had to stop at the next light. He was shaking his head and giving me thumbs up. hehe. So the butt dyno feels pretty good so far. Going to buy an A/F meter and I still have yet to install my LSD with 4.88 gears!
#10
Wacky, both would be great, but I heard that egt's are a waste unless you are doing long circuit type racing as the sensors needs a long steady rpm based run to read correctly and do any good. Thus using it for street driving and 1/4 mile blasts would be useless. Like I said, this is just hear say, but from a pretty well known builder. Is this true?
#11
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
iTrader: (1)
EGTs are slow to respond but not a waste. If anything they're cheaper than wideband, and cheap enough to put one probe in each pipe so you can tell if one rotor is running hotter or colder. Very helpful for troubleshooting. BUT, only provide temp of exhaust fumes, not air fuel ratio which is what you're really after.
Wideband is much much much faster to respond and can be used to fine tune the whole powerband. Especially idle, progression, and accelerator circuits which is what you use the most on the street. Of course wideband works great at WOT as well.
Wideband is much much much faster to respond and can be used to fine tune the whole powerband. Especially idle, progression, and accelerator circuits which is what you use the most on the street. Of course wideband works great at WOT as well.
#12
EGTs are slow to respond but not a waste. If anything they're cheaper than wideband, and cheap enough to put one probe in each pipe so you can tell if one rotor is running hotter or colder. Very helpful for troubleshooting. BUT, only provide temp of exhaust fumes, not air fuel ratio which is what you're really after.
Wideband is much much much faster to respond and can be used to fine tune the whole powerband. Especially idle, progression, and accelerator circuits which is what you use the most on the street. Of course wideband works great at WOT as well.
Wideband is much much much faster to respond and can be used to fine tune the whole powerband. Especially idle, progression, and accelerator circuits which is what you use the most on the street. Of course wideband works great at WOT as well.
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LongDuck
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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10-07-15 08:12 PM