The mustang dyno that Steve uses has been corrected to read the same as Dynojet numbers.
The problem I've seen with all these dynos other than Dynojet is that they are very inconsistent due to the correction factors involved. If you're looking for exact #'s stay away from those dynos or asked to see the dyno correction/conditions etc.
In the end the final #'s does not matter anyway to a true racer because a dyno is used too see differences. The true #'s are the ones that are shown at the track and often that's where many feelings get hurt.
What matters are the ones who have done it and knows what it takes to duplicate it time and time again. The rest is just hype and sales pitch.

 

Yes that is true, but it is easier to see hp results on a drag strip compared to a road course. Lap times can vary depending on braking points, cornering speed etc.
Did I top out at 130mph on the straight because I was able to exit the corner faster or was it from more horsepower?

I have faster lap times than many people who have more hp. Just like your 1/4 times are quicker than others with more hp. Our variables are the same, grip, drivetrain, aero, and power to weight. The main difference is my track incorporates brakes and cornering.

 

The sanctioning body I run requires SAE corrected dynojet results only. This is ultimately the only figure I really care about.

Thanks

 

I have my own dyno and played with tuning ,i have made 420hp RWHP on stock internals and nothing special internally 13BPP alcohol,but there is alot of tricks in timing ,intake and header length.
My goal is 450hp for winter and i will play with the current setup i have for now.Ive learned my lessons changing to many things stick to what you got and work it.

see for your self,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60eNBhSvp34

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wBF88s_E2s

 

That is pretty insane! Nice runs btw. What dyno are you using? Any way you could post a chart? I only ask because when it comes to 13b pp everyone seems to never post, and I would love to see what it looks like.

 

He can't! The all motor marfia will strike him down!

 

well i have a p port now and its for sale $3,500 i dont think you will get over 300 at the wheels i have not dyno it not interested in the peak power i drive it daily and it has a 48 IDA. i built it for the most bottom end power the power come in sooner then your high horsepower Pport. people are getting some good power out of the port angle and port size there are people doing 55 mm ports but if you can keep the rpm up there it will run good.

 

the all motor monitors will come and get me ,

I have a dynojet 224x I know , i will get the usual horsepower correction questions by everyone ,dyno vs dyno graphs....huh crispeed .

 

Nice video's, I'm wondering how much your peripheral port intake size varies, compared to the mazda or racing beat Peripheral port size. That HP can't be all intake and exhaust tuning, right?

 

I've heard of 371 whp.

 

That's a secret.

 

Good read fellas. I'm considering ordering one of those 62mm terminator II carbs for my PP build. Damn they will look sick on a huge intake manifold...

 

Not only will it look good but it will perform better. The guy that builds these carbs is about 15 minutes away from me and these carbs are the cream of the crop of the carbs hands down. I will be using one on my future pport motor for sure.

 

I'm trying to get an idea of the parts needed to build a decent PP and by the comments above I hear you dont need to get too fancy with the parts. Would series 5 rx7 NA rotors suffice? What about e-shaft, housings etc, if I just used a 2nd gen block and got it all balanced, oiled etc and slapped a properly tuned 62mm carb on it, would you see over 300hp the the wheels?

 

Easily.

 

mean

 

Go to Eastcoastparts.com they got the aluminum rotors and one piece seals. Thats my friends car on the main page too.

 

Yeh I'll grab a few of those billet rotors too, I got a spare 8k lyin round somewhere.... I wish haha!

 

all you needs is 4k I think they were goin 2k a piece. Im sure the 5 lbs diffrence will be worth it. haha

 

how hard are you reving that thing?

 

We recently dynoed ours for the first time made 275 at the wheels on c-16, had some clutch problems right then we was going to start to up the timing.

 

I have a N/A 90 gxl What to do for more HP ?! I want to kick there STI ,EVO ASSES ect.... !

 

Do you want to stay NA or go turbo? It's difficult to make good HP from a NA rotary if smog or noise is a concern. I've been told that using huge ports on the street don't yield as much HP power because there is more exhaust dillution into the intake because of too much exhaust back pressure trying to quite it down for street purposes. (exhaust can't escape quick enough and gets carried back to the intake), mainly an issue with a 13B PP or J bridge.

A good budget build would be a large street port or standard bridgeport with a good header and exhaust. Anywhere from 210 - 260whp for a street setup. I would recommend a turbo if you want more than this. How many miles does your current engine have?

 

We ML Wankeltrim has dyno'ed our drag car RX-4 on a RotoTest hub dyno a month ago. With Shell 99 octane, 45 mm PP port,short primaries,Gene Berg 54 mm carb and ProSpark distributorless 4 coil ignition we made 295 hub hp@9200 rpm. I lifted the throttle at 9186 rpm according to the rpm log becausse of misfire near 9000 rpm. With 10% drivetrain loss it would equal to 328 hp. This was with 3 spark set up. Had 20L and 16T and 8 FT on ignition timing but was short on time to bump the advance.

We also have made 1 1/4 mile pass with 1740 lbs car at 11.91s-113.5 mph. Unfortanately the engine is broke due to low compression becausse of 2 Apex seals stuck in the rotors. I shall rebuild the engine the coming weeks and put in ligter 9:4 cr rotors now 4290 grams, compare to stock ones 4650 grams. Still will be the same D shape porting on intake and a few tricks also ( i hope)? We will race again the 27-28 of June at a big event 100 km from Stockholm. Hopefully then we break the 10 second barrier!

/Lasse

 

you can also get your rotors scalloped for more port timing and overlap.