4 port na drift moter
 

I am saveing up to build a 13b 4 port moter for drifting this spring. I am using all t2 parts like intake and housings with high compression na rotors, light weight aluminum fly wheel,and the car will be completly lightend and stipped for drifting. I am going back and forth on weather I should do a large street port with one of judge itos large street porting templates, or a half bridge port. I am aiming for a torqe band starting around 4000 and peaking at around 8500or9000,and put somthing like 220hp to the wheels. Im afraid if I do a half bridge I wount be able to keep the wheels spinning If I drop below 4000. Im also doing alot of other mods like ported throtle body, electric fans, 2 1/2'' or 3'' single exhaust havent decided on the size yet, the ecu will be a haltech sprint re, and alot more that would be to much to list.I need some input from you guys I cant decide what type of port to do.

go for it my 6port 1/2 bp is the shit power starts at like 3500 to 6500(havent reved her past 6500 yet), but Im running the stock ecu (afm) and exh mani into a borla catback. I doubt Im over 200whp but its fun to beat on lol. so a 4 port bp with a better intake would easily pass your 220. hell it would probly still do it with the t2 intake.

You will never get a torque band like that in a rotary, I don't care what you do to it. That is more of a horsepower band if anything. Also, If you are going to be revving up that high, you are going to need to make a LOT of internal modifications to allow the engine to rev without destroying itself. You're also going to want to have ascatter shield for those rpms.

Speaking of scatter shields, anyone got any recommendations of brands or locations to get them from?

clearenced rotors, balenced rotating assembully, hardend wcp treated stationary gears with 3 window bearings, compation rotor bearings, one peace corner seals with fd springs,I plane on using goopy 2mm 2peace apex seals does any body know if those will stand up to 9500 to 10,000 rpm.any other mods I missed to rev up to 10,000 not that I will rev it up to that I will probably go up to 9 somthing. I think I will stick to a large street port. horse power band torqe band whatever I just want enough to keep the wheels spining if Im around 4000 and if I go belowe that I can give her a clutch kick to get her going again.

im not reving past 7000 anyways so not to worried lol; but i always thought you could do 75-8000 on the stock keg?

Im asuming you are still using ur aux ports and they open at the right time and every thing. I rev my s4 six port up to like 7800 every now and then but I wouldnt push a stock moter past that to often.

another thing I was wondering is will my stock tac go past the 8000 mark because if it will I could just mark a 9 and 10 on it so I know what rpm I am at.

lol, no, its way off near redline anyways

dam so I have to buy a tac.

As far as tacs go, APC makes a real good unit for about $50.

will I need to bump up my oil pressure?

Would be a good idea, I am planning to build a similar motor and I will probably use a modded oil pressure regulator or one from pineapple racing along with a 17.5mm pump.

will my stock pump do the job, and do I need to up grade the front opr to.

it would be nice to have a turbo pump, but its not really needed.

the front OPR can be left alone, but its nice to have a new spring.

does anybody have any suggestions for apex seals and springs?

lol, good joke...

my fancy autometer tach isn't super accurate, I can't imagine how bad that one is.

Well seeing as the dyno and the shift light show the same exact numbers I would say its money well spent. I have a first gen drag car that I leave nothing to chance on. I would not post up the help unless I test it out on my own stuff first.

On the other hand I have also overpaid for some Autometer stuff that turned out to be junk, that's the reason I went in search of something that worked.

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-drag-racing-167/stock-chassis-fb-street-machine-912164/

over at rotary car club they have them for sale in the vendor section
both for FD and TII bellhousings.

http://*************.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=14846

I have a 10pound aluminum fly wheel I got for very cheap that I was going to use. But I have heard that a fly wheel that light will will be a bad thing and I should go with a heavyer fly wheel because with the 10 pound aluminum one I wount be able to keep the wheels spinging and I will loose torqe and stuff like that, but wouldnt a lighter fly wheel let me get more of my engines power to the wheels? could someone please explaine this to me.

anyone!

I am also looking into building a similar engine. 6 Port 13B NA with a Large Street port. I am going to run a Weber 48 DCO sidedraft for fuel controlsssss

What I was wondering is what apex seals are you going to run. A lot of people tell me to reuse all of my stock stuff, but I don't think they understand that I will be revving to about 8-9K RPM

I was thinking of using the Atkins Cryo Treated Apex seals and use all new seals everywhere.

And I don't mean to thread jack, I just thought it'd be dumb to start a 6 Port NA Drift Motor build thread.lol.

Oh, and yes. I would stick with the stock flywheel. I'm going to, it makes sense to me.

about time I thought this thread died weeks ago! Im going to be going with goopys 2mm 2peace apex seals. they are the best I have found. the corner peace dosent come to as sharp of a point as the mazda seals so they dont leave that deep corner seal grove in the rotor housing like the mazda seals do. they have an anti friction coating or something like that im not sure, and when I talked to the guy from goopy way back I think he said they have been tested up to 11,000rpm and handle detonation very well! and if you buy a set of there apex seals they refurbish your rotor housings for 150 bucks in stead of 300 wich im doing. Im haveing goopy do all the work to my engine parts exept porting. Ive heard nothing but good stuff about them and they do it all at a very low price. definatly dont reause all your seals and stuff if you plain on building a high quality engine thats going to be at 9k most of its life. adkins rebuild kits are the cheaps and give you the most thats what im geting. stock flywheel F%@# that big heavy chunk of steel. I will see how the aluminum fly wheel goes I got it for 100 bucks.

that link isn't working for me for those scatter shields. i too am currently pulling parts together for a 4 port na (bridgeport is the plan). i've been searching for a scatter shield for a while and can't find anything for a turbo 2 bellhousing. i tried searching on the ************* forums but i can't find the vendor who sells them. help would be appreciated.