4 port na drift moter
 

I am saveing up to build a 13b 4 port moter for drifting this spring. I am using all t2 parts like intake and housings with high compression na rotors, light weight aluminum fly wheel,and the car will be completly lightend and stipped for drifting. I am going back and forth on weather I should do a large street port with one of judge itos large street porting templates, or a half bridge port. I am aiming for a torqe band starting around 4000 and peaking at around 8500or9000,and put somthing like 220hp to the wheels. Im afraid if I do a half bridge I wount be able to keep the wheels spinning If I drop below 4000. Im also doing alot of other mods like ported throtle body, electric fans, 2 1/2'' or 3'' single exhaust havent decided on the size yet, the ecu will be a haltech sprint re, and alot more that would be to much to list.I need some input from you guys I cant decide what type of port to do.

go for it my 6port 1/2 bp is the shit power starts at like 3500 to 6500(havent reved her past 6500 yet), but Im running the stock ecu (afm) and exh mani into a borla catback. I doubt Im over 200whp but its fun to beat on lol. so a 4 port bp with a better intake would easily pass your 220. hell it would probly still do it with the t2 intake.

You will never get a torque band like that in a rotary, I don't care what you do to it. That is more of a horsepower band if anything. Also, If you are going to be revving up that high, you are going to need to make a LOT of internal modifications to allow the engine to rev without destroying itself. You're also going to want to have ascatter shield for those rpms.

Speaking of scatter shields, anyone got any recommendations of brands or locations to get them from?

clearenced rotors, balenced rotating assembully, hardend wcp treated stationary gears with 3 window bearings, compation rotor bearings, one peace corner seals with fd springs,I plane on using goopy 2mm 2peace apex seals does any body know if those will stand up to 9500 to 10,000 rpm.any other mods I missed to rev up to 10,000 not that I will rev it up to that I will probably go up to 9 somthing. I think I will stick to a large street port. horse power band torqe band whatever I just want enough to keep the wheels spining if Im around 4000 and if I go belowe that I can give her a clutch kick to get her going again.

im not reving past 7000 anyways so not to worried lol; but i always thought you could do 75-8000 on the stock keg?

Im asuming you are still using ur aux ports and they open at the right time and every thing. I rev my s4 six port up to like 7800 every now and then but I wouldnt push a stock moter past that to often.

another thing I was wondering is will my stock tac go past the 8000 mark because if it will I could just mark a 9 and 10 on it so I know what rpm I am at.

lol, no, its way off near redline anyways

dam so I have to buy a tac.

As far as tacs go, APC makes a real good unit for about $50.

will I need to bump up my oil pressure?

Would be a good idea, I am planning to build a similar motor and I will probably use a modded oil pressure regulator or one from pineapple racing along with a 17.5mm pump.

will my stock pump do the job, and do I need to up grade the front opr to.

it would be nice to have a turbo pump, but its not really needed.

the front OPR can be left alone, but its nice to have a new spring.

does anybody have any suggestions for apex seals and springs?

lol, good joke...

my fancy autometer tach isn't super accurate, I can't imagine how bad that one is.

Well seeing as the dyno and the shift light show the same exact numbers I would say its money well spent. I have a first gen drag car that I leave nothing to chance on. I would not post up the help unless I test it out on my own stuff first.

On the other hand I have also overpaid for some Autometer stuff that turned out to be junk, that's the reason I went in search of something that worked.

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-drag-racing-167/stock-chassis-fb-street-machine-912164/

over at rotary car club they have them for sale in the vendor section
both for FD and TII bellhousings.

http://*************.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=14846

I have a 10pound aluminum fly wheel I got for very cheap that I was going to use. But I have heard that a fly wheel that light will will be a bad thing and I should go with a heavyer fly wheel because with the 10 pound aluminum one I wount be able to keep the wheels spinging and I will loose torqe and stuff like that, but wouldnt a lighter fly wheel let me get more of my engines power to the wheels? could someone please explaine this to me.

anyone!

I am also looking into building a similar engine. 6 Port 13B NA with a Large Street port. I am going to run a Weber 48 DCO sidedraft for fuel controlsssss

What I was wondering is what apex seals are you going to run. A lot of people tell me to reuse all of my stock stuff, but I don't think they understand that I will be revving to about 8-9K RPM

I was thinking of using the Atkins Cryo Treated Apex seals and use all new seals everywhere.

And I don't mean to thread jack, I just thought it'd be dumb to start a 6 Port NA Drift Motor build thread.lol.

Oh, and yes. I would stick with the stock flywheel. I'm going to, it makes sense to me.

about time I thought this thread died weeks ago! Im going to be going with goopys 2mm 2peace apex seals. they are the best I have found. the corner peace dosent come to as sharp of a point as the mazda seals so they dont leave that deep corner seal grove in the rotor housing like the mazda seals do. they have an anti friction coating or something like that im not sure, and when I talked to the guy from goopy way back I think he said they have been tested up to 11,000rpm and handle detonation very well! and if you buy a set of there apex seals they refurbish your rotor housings for 150 bucks in stead of 300 wich im doing. Im haveing goopy do all the work to my engine parts exept porting. Ive heard nothing but good stuff about them and they do it all at a very low price. definatly dont reause all your seals and stuff if you plain on building a high quality engine thats going to be at 9k most of its life. adkins rebuild kits are the cheaps and give you the most thats what im geting. stock flywheel F%@# that big heavy chunk of steel. I will see how the aluminum fly wheel goes I got it for 100 bucks.

that link isn't working for me for those scatter shields. i too am currently pulling parts together for a 4 port na (bridgeport is the plan). i've been searching for a scatter shield for a while and can't find anything for a turbo 2 bellhousing. i tried searching on the ************* forums but i can't find the vendor who sells them. help would be appreciated.

goopy sells scatter sheilds for t2 trannys there number is 1-845-947-0007. I think im going to try and make a scatter sheild if I can find some metal laying around.

Definitely going to go with the Goopy Apex seals. Started on getting ready to tear down my engine. Hoping to have it torn down all the way tonight so I can send out the Rotor Housings and Side plates to get the apex seal surface polished and Large Street ported.

would a self made scatter shield be "race legal" (scca/nasa)? as long as it's made of 1/4" steel (or thicker)? does anyone have any pics of a scatter shield attached to a bellhousing?

btw, here in central fl we have a place call "Svinga brothers" who sells recycled metals, aluminum/pipes and all kinds of great goodies for cheap. should check your local yellow pages and see if somewhere like that is local to you.

I'm looking into doing a weird/custom bridge port on my engine.

It's like a half bridge but the intake opening timing is not going to be super aggressive, i want it to be like inbetween a large street port and a bridge port. Would it be better for me to basically have the opening come in later by raising the base of it, or just make it come in later by making the opening narrower. If you guys need a better explanation ill try to illustrate it.

save all the bullshit mods, do a large street port and put the money from upgrading the oil system and balancing and other crap and put that directly into buying a set of ceramic seals.

stock balance with the ceramics the engine will still easily be good for 9,000 RPMs of constant duty. forget the bridge if you want the best torque curve from start to end, streetporting will get you there but it will start to peak in horsepower at about 8500 at best with a streetport so you will be looking at around 200whp peak power.

why do people always have to attempt to overbuild these engines... wasting money in the wrong areas. that is what i would do for an n/a car i would be flogging, and delete the OMP and premix synthetic 2 stroke oil.

you will still have to also worry about upgrading the cooling system as well.

i agree, simple is best.

I do want to keep it simple, as j9fd3s is stating.

The thing is though, I feel like a power band that is strongest from 5k RPM to ~9k RPM would work best for an NA drift car.

The engine in my car was "Street Ported" by Rotary Shack thanks to the previous owner of the car. The response was decent but the top end power was nothing I would expect. It accelerated but not how I felt it should.

If you guys think ill get good power that'll make my rev's fly towards 9k RPM I will probably do that.

And regarding the seals, I'm convinced on getting the Goopy seals, I also heard they are a bit soft and will help great with conforming to minor grooving the rotor housing might have, seeing as they are used.

This is definitely a long learning experience but i love learning things first hand. I am trying to slowly familiarize myself with flow and timing, so that when I plan on doing a 6 Port turbo build w/ either S5 or S6 rotors I wont be going back and forth trying to figure out how to build a reliable TII engine.

Oh, and I already run pre mix, good ol' Valvoline 2 Stroke. Is synthetic better?

And for cooling, I have a Fluidine Radiator and always keep my coolant fresh. I would like to figure something out for the Oil Cooler but I'm sure they can handle the heat an NA produces.

have a dyno chart of the power it currently makes? and what mods including standalone EMS.

:blush:

No... I wish I could afford that. I should've dynoed but went drifiting instead.

And as for engine stuff.

Weber 48 DCO ("tuned by Rotary Shack") :P
MSD 6A Box on leading plugs
Racing Beat 13B Header with a 2" Collector Pipe (Maybe that was my problem)
Apex'i GT Spec Exhaust (3"-4" to 114mm outlet pipe.

Once I do this rebuild I'm definitely going to keep an eye on A/F ratios and get a 2.75" Pipe for the collector

Ill try to post pics later today of the "Street Port" my engine had.

I dont know where ive been will this thread kept going? well I can tell you im doing a lot of stuff differntly now Im going with s5 na rotors side cut and with a new cut that goopy does to the face of the rotor that drops the compression ratio slightly and lightens the rotors alot! and with that cut being done the rotating assembuly needs to be balenced. and im going with rx8 stationary gears and a 3rd gen eshaft. goopy resurfaces the the eshaft and I geuss they are going to make me custom bearings for it or somthing like that I have to take a trip up to goopy soon and talk to jon. and Im going with the judge ito street port so forget the half bridge port im going with the very large street port!!! and hope to make 200whp:fingersx:. now I have another question what type of gas should I be running in this engine? I would think I should probably run 93 octane pump gas coz that will let me tune it prity agressively and not have to spend money on race gas.

Why do people ask questions and answer them in there same post :scratch:

why do you wanna go na for drifting? i thought about it in my 20b but the money spent would double the amount of going boost and still come out with less power.

im going to run it na for a wile and probably next summer im going to add a turbo and push about 20psi of boost and make 400 to 500whp

because I want to get input from people who know more about it then I do. DER!!

dont waste your time and money. A stockport turbo motor with a compressor upgraded s5 turbo will be faster drifting than any N/A you could build and itll last longer to.

I know I could get away with doing somthing like that for drifting. but I would much rather build a moter and set it up exactly the way I want it in stead of just droping a t2 in it and calling it a day. besides I will be turboing the moter im building in the futer any way.

Do whatever your heart desires and your wallet allows.

My heart and wallet almost never agree. Just saying.

agreed!

well then find a happy medium!

[QUOTE=fidelity101;11158527]well then find a happy medium![/QUO
well I already have all the money I need to build my moter I just have to pay for the haltech now! ones I get the car back to a rolling chassis here hopfully buy the end of this weekend I can get started on finally building this moter!

ok i finally got the moter built! I hooked it up 2 the tranny to day hooked up the starter and did a compression test. the front rotar was about 90psi on all faces but the rear was about 90psi on 2 faces and about 60psi on one face. i dont know why though? I clearensed all the side seals within speck and im about 99.9% sure i got the angle right on all of them. but my question is after the brake in will that face reading 60psi hopfully go up and sit closer to the other to faces around 90psi? im using rotor housings resurfaced by goopy, goopy apex seals, new oem side seals, adkins one peace corner seals with fd springs, and all new springs all around. I mean will I even notice one rotor face being 20 or so psi lower then the rest?

One face being 20 psi off is typically from a side seal not having "quite" enough clearance. .002-.001" can cause this sometimes. I would start the engine and drive it up to 4k for about 50 miles. Check compression again. If its still 20psi down then I would start to be concerned. My bet is it will go away after 50miles or less.

I would doubt that any of them dont have enough clearens. they all fell in between .002 -.005 at the most. Im just hopeing everything frees up after the breaking is over! if its still short on compression do u think the moter will still run ok? coz if I dont really notice the slight lack of compression on that one face and I can get away with running it that way and still make decent power that would be ideal, coz right now I dont realy have a garage and I dont feel like takeing this engine back out in the cold and draging it back down to my basment and tear it back apart!