st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Problem: Newly rebuilt s4 N/A absolutely will not start. I tried to get it to start for 5 hours the other day, I've checked everything, I get fuel, I get spark, I get compression. Bleh.


Would anyone be interested in helping out this weekend? Free pizza and beer (Or soda) to anyone with some free time that will come down and help out. The car is in Gardner, KS just a couple blocks away from the high school.

Anybody want to help?

You can call my phone (913) 952 9011 Jerry.


Remember, Pizza and Beer... Or soda, if thats more your style.

Matt Hey

Maybe you have too much fuel, as in flooded. Take a spark plug out and see if it's wet. If it is then pull the EFI(?) fuse and crank for awhile and then put it back in and try to start again. You might try resetting the ECU too. Maybe check fuses also, like for the fuel pump. It's usually the simple things that are easy to check after all ;-).

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Ok, well here's where I'm at now. The car starts and will run, but after about 60 seconds it will shut off and I'll have to de-flood it The warning buzzer goes off after a little bit, but I can't tell what the warning is because the idiot cluster lights don't come on.

Matt Hey

Sticking injector maybe?
Does it idle at the correct speed and run fine until it dies? Usually a really rich idle won't cause too much of a problem. The exhaust may pop a bit and exhaust smells like gas but it will run fine until the plugs fowl down to about 10:1 AFR which is the most I have experienced. Of course a stuck injector could make the AFR way richer than that. I bet the whole bottom of your engine fills up with gas. If the idle speed is off then maybe check the TPS? Maybe check the throttle linkage/throttle body mechanicals to see if they operate by hand and have the correct tension. Did you get all the injector o-rings back on and in the right place and the injectors seated in the rail correctly?

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Yes, but I fear the the problem is electrical. when I turn the key to the "on" position none of the idiot cluster lights come on, no clock either. Then after a minute or so a buzzer can be heard, but I have no idea what it could be, I'm pretty sure I've got the thing completely full of coolant.

Matt Hey

Sounds like it's time to clean and add grounds. Wouldn't hurt to check for any blown fuses too. Easy stuff first you know.

13B Etc

iTrader: (2)

How's it going over there, Jerry?

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Jesus dude, this car is a pain in my ***.

1. Won't start without generous amounts of ATF
2. Will only run for approx. 60 - 120 seconds after started
3. Idiot light cluster doesn't have any display, the clock either for that matter
4. A buzzer is going off about 10 seconds after the key is turned to the on position, no idea what it means, see #3
5. It's an automatic, can't roll start the damn thing

I've given up temporarily and started stripping the paint of my car in the parking lot.

RotaryWeaponSE7EN

iTrader: (6)

Used housings or new?

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Used housings. The engine ran just fine when I bought it, just had a bad coolant seal.

RotaryWeaponSE7EN

iTrader: (6)

Well new seals will take time to seat in the housings. Most fresh rebuild with used housing only have around 60psi compression till the seals seat themselves. Try to get it started again and just keep it running for a while even if you have to sit in the car for 30 minutes or have something holding the throttle down a bit.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

The rebuild was strictly soft seals replaced, reused apex seals, so they should be for the most part already "seated" I had the engine running at about about 3500 set via the fast idle set screw, and at 3500 the engine just died, not like slow sputtering, but just an immediate shut off.

I've had it started half a dozen times, but can't keep it goin.