****** The Infamous Steven Kan Tuning Back In St.louis*******
#77
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BAD news!!!
i did another compression test and the results aren't good.
i must have misread the gauge but
front 60,60,60
rear 90,90,90
i was assuming a side seal or something...
tell me what you think...
i will most likely have to back out on the tuning.....
i did another compression test and the results aren't good.
i must have misread the gauge but
front 60,60,60
rear 90,90,90
i was assuming a side seal or something...
tell me what you think...
i will most likely have to back out on the tuning.....
#78
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Originally Posted by LUPE
Yep, Gary with the white 3rd gen.
Did he change his setup, or was he not happy with Chris' tune?
#80
Gohan:
What are you doing for a compression tester? It is pretty hard to mess up a compression test on the high side, so I would lean toward your first results being the right ones.
If you are not using a real rotary tester and correcting for cranking rpm's the actual number means almost nothing - but three equal "puffs" on each rotor is a real good sign.
Keep checking other stuff.
520@26:
You do not have to replace all your coolant lines and stuff, just look everything over, wiring, hoses, etc, and fix what looks suspect. Check especially any hoses that are near oily spots, as the oil will deteriorate the rubber. The nipple that blew off on your car last time was very very dry rotted if I recall correctly and would have been caught in a careful pre-tune inspection.
Hope those help...
Steven
What are you doing for a compression tester? It is pretty hard to mess up a compression test on the high side, so I would lean toward your first results being the right ones.
If you are not using a real rotary tester and correcting for cranking rpm's the actual number means almost nothing - but three equal "puffs" on each rotor is a real good sign.
Keep checking other stuff.
520@26:
You do not have to replace all your coolant lines and stuff, just look everything over, wiring, hoses, etc, and fix what looks suspect. Check especially any hoses that are near oily spots, as the oil will deteriorate the rubber. The nipple that blew off on your car last time was very very dry rotted if I recall correctly and would have been caught in a careful pre-tune inspection.
Hope those help...
Steven
#81
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Originally Posted by Gohan3rdrift
BAD news!!!
i did another compression test and the results aren't good.
i must have misread the gauge but
front 60,60,60
rear 90,90,90
i was assuming a side seal or something...
tell me what you think...
i will most likely have to back out on the tuning.....
i did another compression test and the results aren't good.
i must have misread the gauge but
front 60,60,60
rear 90,90,90
i was assuming a side seal or something...
tell me what you think...
i will most likely have to back out on the tuning.....
60/60/60 isn't a broken seal or stuck seal. If you had a broken or stuck seal, you're numbers wouldn't be the same.
#82
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i'm using oem 2mm seals.
the first test was read by my friend as i was cranking the motor....
he said that he must have misread it.
i checked it three times now, back and forth between rotors....same results
so i called dave gibson today,
he told me that it is one of two things:
1: the plug that i used for the omp lines on the rotor housing could be loose/leaking
i checked it and it's all good
2: there must have been somthing inside that caused one of the housings to get scratched /scored.
all i can do now is take it apart.
it totally makes sense,
if it were a seal....i wouldn't have consistant numbers,and they are very consistant.....
the first test was read by my friend as i was cranking the motor....
he said that he must have misread it.
i checked it three times now, back and forth between rotors....same results
so i called dave gibson today,
he told me that it is one of two things:
1: the plug that i used for the omp lines on the rotor housing could be loose/leaking
i checked it and it's all good
2: there must have been somthing inside that caused one of the housings to get scratched /scored.
all i can do now is take it apart.
it totally makes sense,
if it were a seal....i wouldn't have consistant numbers,and they are very consistant.....
#84
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Originally Posted by Gohan3rdrift
any other ways to verify this.....?
it's okay, you guys can lie to me.
it's okay, you guys can lie to me.
#87
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Originally Posted by Gohan3rdrift
any other ways to verify this.....?
it's okay, you guys can lie to me.
it's okay, you guys can lie to me.
#91
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Originally Posted by LUPE
Well, you've got a month to fix it. You rebuilt your previous motors right? Spend a weekend working on it and get it running. It doesn't take long.
dave gibson built it last time....
i had it cryotreated and everything...the works
this will be my first build, i do all the work not including the motor.
i always said leave that to the professionals but i'm starting to reconsider that...
i am taking 5 classes this semister and work full time...
i'm gonna take longer than a month...maybe
#93
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Originally Posted by TonyTurboII
What happened with the guy who tuned his car?
Did he change his setup, or was he not happy with Chris' tune?
Did he change his setup, or was he not happy with Chris' tune?
#95
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Originally Posted by iceman4357
too many pages to read. When is the date he will be here?
#96
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Originally Posted by Gohan3rdrift
i never built the motor,
dave gibson built it last time....
i had it cryotreated and everything...the works
this will be my first build, i do all the work not including the motor.
i always said leave that to the professionals but i'm starting to reconsider that...
i am taking 5 classes this semister and work full time...
i'm gonna take longer than a month...maybe
dave gibson built it last time....
i had it cryotreated and everything...the works
this will be my first build, i do all the work not including the motor.
i always said leave that to the professionals but i'm starting to reconsider that...
i am taking 5 classes this semister and work full time...
i'm gonna take longer than a month...maybe
#98
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I haven't heard from Chilling so I'm taking him off the list. 2 SLOTS OPEN !!!!
Steve Kan Tuning Information
Steve Kan will be in St.Louis from October 20th to October 23rd. He'll be tuning on October 21st and 22nd which falls on a saturday and sunday. His rate is $350 for a complete tune which requires a deposit of $200.
Deposits can be sent to my address. I'll hand the deposits over to Steve when he arrives.
Deposits can be sent to my address. (Make checks out to Steve Kan)
1320 East Main St.
Belleville IL, 62220
__________________________________________________ ______________
Tuning list:
1. Gohandrift3(Deposit Recieved)
2. Cracker Smacker(Deposit Received)
3. Stix37867 (Deposit Received)
4. Kelvin Samlalsingh (Deposit Received)
5. Busted7 (Deposit Received)
6. Tristan (Deposit Received)
7. Lee (Deposit Received)
8. Dr. Gary Hagner (Deposit being sent)
DYNO INFORMATION
Dyno time is $85/Hr
Tuxedo Park Racing is located in the same building as Penthouse Club.
Address is:
Tuxedo Park Racing
1401 Mississippi Ave
Bay #3
East St. Louis IL, 62201
Here is what they will offer us:
1. Two mechanics.
2. We will have access to all of his facilities for the weekend.
3. Intercomp scales will be available for corner weights.
4. A Lift and tools will be available incase a problem were to arise.
5. Fabrication/Machine shop/Welding is available in case it’s needed.
6. Brand new Dynopack 3000 w/wideband and boost transducer.
Dyno List: (Dyno at Tuxedo Park Racing)
1. Gohandrift3
2. Cracker Smacker
3. Stix37867
4. Kelvin Samlalsingh
5. Busted7
6. Tristan
7. Lee
8. Dr. Gary Hagner
__________________________________________________ ______________
Everyone needs to make a checklist before Steve Kan arrives. This is what he said in an earlier post.
"Here're some items to inspect/replace before the dyno. New plugs (less than 1k miiles), new fuel filter (less than 5k miles), inspect spark plug wires, oil change, full tank of whatever gas you normally run, inspect tires (no nails or anything that can fly out during the dyno), inspect coolant fluid (change if necessary), clean air filter, put all the mods in that you plan to run before coming to the dyno (I don't think there'll be enough time to install them on the same day)."
If you want to be added to the list, please let me know asap.
Steve Kan will be in St.Louis from October 20th to October 23rd. He'll be tuning on October 21st and 22nd which falls on a saturday and sunday. His rate is $350 for a complete tune which requires a deposit of $200.
Deposits can be sent to my address. I'll hand the deposits over to Steve when he arrives.
Deposits can be sent to my address. (Make checks out to Steve Kan)
1320 East Main St.
Belleville IL, 62220
__________________________________________________ ______________
Tuning list:
1. Gohandrift3(Deposit Recieved)
2. Cracker Smacker(Deposit Received)
3. Stix37867 (Deposit Received)
4. Kelvin Samlalsingh (Deposit Received)
5. Busted7 (Deposit Received)
6. Tristan (Deposit Received)
7. Lee (Deposit Received)
8. Dr. Gary Hagner (Deposit being sent)
DYNO INFORMATION
Dyno time is $85/Hr
Tuxedo Park Racing is located in the same building as Penthouse Club.
Address is:
Tuxedo Park Racing
1401 Mississippi Ave
Bay #3
East St. Louis IL, 62201
Here is what they will offer us:
1. Two mechanics.
2. We will have access to all of his facilities for the weekend.
3. Intercomp scales will be available for corner weights.
4. A Lift and tools will be available incase a problem were to arise.
5. Fabrication/Machine shop/Welding is available in case it’s needed.
6. Brand new Dynopack 3000 w/wideband and boost transducer.
Dyno List: (Dyno at Tuxedo Park Racing)
1. Gohandrift3
2. Cracker Smacker
3. Stix37867
4. Kelvin Samlalsingh
5. Busted7
6. Tristan
7. Lee
8. Dr. Gary Hagner
__________________________________________________ ______________
Everyone needs to make a checklist before Steve Kan arrives. This is what he said in an earlier post.
"Here're some items to inspect/replace before the dyno. New plugs (less than 1k miiles), new fuel filter (less than 5k miles), inspect spark plug wires, oil change, full tank of whatever gas you normally run, inspect tires (no nails or anything that can fly out during the dyno), inspect coolant fluid (change if necessary), clean air filter, put all the mods in that you plan to run before coming to the dyno (I don't think there'll be enough time to install them on the same day)."
If you want to be added to the list, please let me know asap.