Hi guys,

Things are coming together on my turbo project. Just finished my exhaust and intake plumbing.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...wpost&t=869102

I have a stock port Cosmo 13B-RE motor and wanted some baseline map advice. Anyone have a map to suit my setup? LT8, TII coils, 60-1 Turbo, 550/1000 injectors,stock fuel pressure regulator, 91 octane.

 

OK. No responce. The norm. Main question is... What needs to change when switching from 550 secondary injectors to 1000s. And what staging should work?

 

ill give you a map soon. just busy.

 

Thank you very much! I really appreciate it.

 

I searched around and found a thread for a car with similar specs.
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...32&postcount=2

Does this map seem like it will be a good start for me?

Idle Map
Screen 1

30" ~ 1.33
25" ~ 1.41
20" ~ 1.44
15" ~ 1.56
10" ~ 2.15
05" ~ 3.05
00" ~ 3.33
2-20psi ~ 4.4

Load Map
Screen 3

30" ~ 1.12
25" ~ 1.56
20" ~ 1.44
15" ~ 1.67
10" ~ 2.35
05" ~ 3.05
00" ~ 3.9
2psi ~ 4.1
4psi ~ 4.6
6psi ~ 5.3
8psi ~ 5.8
10psi ~ 6.1
14psi ~ 6.5
16psi ~ 7
18psi ~ 7.3
20psi ~ 8

RPMwot Map Screen 17

0500 00%
1000 00%
1500 00%
2000 00%
2500 00%
3000 00%
3500 00%
4000 00%
4500 00%
5000 03%+
5500 05%+
6000 06%+
6500 07%+
7000 08%+
7500 09%+
8000 10%+
9000 13%+

RPMcrs Screen 18 expressed as a percentage with all values set at zero.

Pump Map
Screen 19

Pump2Start ~ 2000
Pump1Amt ~ 15
Pump1Pulse ~ 02
Pump1Trig ~ 14
Pump1Stop ~ 00
Pump1Adv ~ 05

Pump2Time ~ 10
Pump2Amt ~ 30
Pump2Trig ~ 16
Pump2Stop ~ 00
Pump2Adv ~ 05

PumpDwell ~ 3.00
PumpTimers ~ No
Pump1Sync ~ No
PumpSpare ~ 00
PumpCold ~ 00

Water Map
Screen 20

-25 ~ 0
-17 ~ 70
-9 ~ 60
-1 ~ 55
5 ~ 50
11 ~ 50
18 ~ 45
24 ~ 35
31 ~ 30
38 ~ 20
46 ~ 15
60 ~ 12
68 ~ 8
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

Air_t Map
Screen 21

-25 ~ 0
-17 ~ 8
-9 ~ 6
-1 ~ 5
5 ~ 4
11 ~ 3
18 ~ 3
24 ~ 0
31 ~ 0
38 ~ 0
46 ~ 0
60 ~ 0
68 ~ 0
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

Crank Map
Screen 22

-25 ~ 72
-17 ~ 72
-9 ~ 72
-1 ~ 67
5 ~ 62
11 ~ 57
18 ~ 50
24 ~ 41
31 ~ 31
38 ~ 26
46 ~ 20
60 ~ 15
68 ~ 5
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

t*rpm
Screen 23

Idle ~ 10
1000 ~ 10
1500 ~ 15
2000 ~ 20
2500 ~ 25
3000 ~ 25
3500 ~ 25
4000 ~ 25
4500 ~ 25
5000 ~ 25
5500 ~ 25
6000 ~ 25
6500 ~ 25
7000 ~ 25
7500 ~ 25
8000 ~ 26
9000 ~ 26

t*map Map
Screen 24

Idle ~ 00
25 ~ 05
20 ~ 04
15 ~ 03
10 ~ 02
05 ~ 00
00 ~ 00
2psi ~ 00
4psi ~ 00
6psi ~ 00
8psi ~ -02
10psi ~ -04
14psi ~ -08
16psi ~ -11
18 psi ~ -14
20 psi ~ -16

t*air Screen 25
Correction value Is expressed as number of degrees you wish to advance or Retard to the Ignition curve and values Is set at zero.

t*gap
Screen 26

0500 ~ 15
1000 ~ 15
1500 ~ 15
2000 ~ 14
2500 ~ 12
3000 ~ 10
3500 ~ 10
4000 ~ 10
4500 ~ 10
5000 ~ 10
5500 ~ 10
6000 ~ 10
6500 ~ 10
7000 ~ 10
8000 ~ 10

t*Inj Map
Screen 27

0500 ~ 120
1000 ~ 150
1500 ~ 150
2000 ~ 150
2500 ~ 150
3000 ~ 150
3500 ~ 150
4000 ~ 180
4500 ~ 210
5000 ~ 210
5500 ~ 210
6000 ~ 240
6500 ~ 240
7000 ~ 270
8000 ~ 270
9000 ~ 270

t*wat Map Screen 28
Correction value Is expressed as number of degrees you wish to advance or Retard to the Ignition curve and values Is set at zero.

Option Map
Screen 30

Af_StE ~ 10
Dwell ~ 3.50 *set at Time Base - not at Duty Cycle*
REVstg ~ 1320
MAPstg ~ 03"
%stg ~ 50

 

give it a go but would pay to have a wide band in it to check afr s as your driving

 

Thanks. Check on the wideband. I've got an lm1.

 

Does t*map in the above map look too aggressive under boost for 91 octane?

I think I want to use less aggressive timing while I am dialing the fuel in? Safety first you know.

Something like this maybe:

idle ~ 0
25 ~ 5
20 ~ 4
15 ~ 3
10 ~ 2
5 ~ 0
0 ~ 0
2psi ~ -2
4psi ~ -4
6psi ~ -6
8psi ~ -10
10psi ~ -10
14psi ~ -12
16psi ~ -14
18 psi ~ -16
20 psi ~ -18

 

That timing map looks good for 93 octane.

Take another 3 degrees out on boost for 91 octane.

 

ALso that map is fine. Will be a good start. after all it is one of mine

 

A little confused. 3° from the original map timing like this:

Idle ~ 00
25 ~ 05
20 ~ 04
15 ~ 03
10 ~ 02
05 ~ 00
00 ~ 00
2psi ~ 00
4psi ~ -01
6psi ~ -03
8psi ~ -05
10psi ~ -07
14psi ~ -11
16psi ~ -14
18 psi ~ -17
20 psi ~ -19

 

Yes, yours seem to be the gold standard.

 

No like this

idle ~ 0
25 ~ 5
20 ~ 4
15 ~ 3
10 ~ 2
5 ~ 0
0 ~ 0
2psi ~ -2
4psi ~ -6
6psi ~ -9
8psi ~ -12
10psi ~ -12
14psi ~ -15
16psi ~ -17
18 psi ~ -19
20 psi ~ -21

 

Thank you!

 

I entered the map and fired it up today. It was tough starting, but it had a few things against it. It was between 35 and 40 degrees F out. The battery had barely enough juice to start. Also the gas is 2 years old. On startup there were a bunch of backfires and failed starts. Once started there were issues with dying on throttle tip in. First thing to fix is the issues with the battery and of course get some fresh gas in her.

 

DId you fix your timing as well


And put these pump settings in


Pump1Amt ~ 30
Pump1Pulse ~ 04
Pump1Trig ~ 12
Pump1Stop ~ 00
Pump1Adv ~ 05

 

Got some 100 octane gas in the tank to offset the old stuff. Started right up. There were a few misfires at first. The fuel map was about 30% lean, so richened it up. There was a dead spot in 1000 to 2000 range. AFR went rich. Leaned out the cruise points and it didn't get much better. Bucks pretty bad until 2000 RPM. Should I try tweaking the timing a bit down there? Any recommendations?

I was able to drive the car home, so I can work on it a bit more often. It made it the full 800 miles.

 

I had a significant charge system issue that appears to be resolved now, maybe. The Microtech was reading 13.8V cold and it reduced almost 1V as the car warmed up. I replaced the corroded 10Ga charge wire today with two 8Ga wires. The Microtech now reads 15.4-15.2V. At the same time my LM1 reads ~14.6V. The Microtech is wired to a slightly different spot then the LM-1. The LM1 is connected to the battery terminal. The Microtech is connected to the starter motor positive lug. The lug shares connections with the 0Ga positive line from battery and 2X10Ga wires from the s5 alternator.

The change in voltage altered how my map worked. A/F at idle went from 14.2 to 12.5. I had to reduce mixtrim by 14%.

The engine putts around OK, but it is shutting off at ~4000RPM.

I took two data logs. Data log 1 is before new wires added. Data log 2 is after new wires added.

 

I have to admit that I cut a few corners to get the car home, but hopefully I can get these issues fixed quickly. Once that is done I can start all over again with the tune.

Here's the initial startup video.
http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...t=1048e00f.mp4

* 15.4V charge issue...New alternator is on order.

* Low RPM drivability issue...Resolved. Got my fuel pressure gauge working, loose ground wire. Fuel pressure was 50-55psi key on engine off. I have two small walbros and a stock FPR. I took power off one of them and got 40psi. Looks like I either need to stage the pumps or get an aftermarket FPR. The drivability problem makes perfect sense now. Fuel pressure was ~20% high until 2000rpm and I had to trim back ~20% at 1000rpm and 1500rpm.

* 4000Rpm cutout issue...Found a lead. I noticed that the Microtech was not progressing past the 2psi load point. I will hook a pump and pressure gauge up to the MAP input and see what it reads.

 

Found a boost leak...well leaks. The hoses are pretty old now, but there was some bad build practice involved. The boost/vacuum line to the ECU was spliced into the boost gauge once through the firewall. A no no. What is worst is the connection on the tee was leaking from the line to the boost gauge. Furthermore the boost gauge itself was leaking internally. And to make things even worse the connection to the ECU was leaking directly on the microtech's nipple. Fixing these leaks is very likely to make a noticable difference.

Any recomendations on the best tubing and clamps to use for reliable sealing to the Microtech?

 

We have BOOST and an AFR that climbs to the mid 11s. Map was all kinds of wrong after all the repairs. I'm gonna stop playing now before I run into something looking at the computer. It's kinda hard to drive and tune. I'll need a copilot to do much more of this.

 

sounds like you are finally getting there. keep up the good work

 

good stuff try tuning it on a wet road and stuffing a clutch as well http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqkzWrAeGx0

sorted all that out and got a better tune in mine ( and some caltracks) im looking forward to a dyno soon see if we can get close to 450-480 out if it

 

LMAO. That looked pretty challenging.