what fuel pressure gauge(brand) are you getting your fuel pressure from??
your set psi on start up?
also what does your wide band read if it ever manages to idle?
spark plugs fouled?
have you connected to a laptop maybe your tps is is being active it may cause to cut fuel on start up.

 

It's a b&m gauge , I've tried pressure at 40 and 50, I've purchased new plugs all bur 9eqs they're on the way.

 

set it to 45 psi
pull your plugs clean them if fouled
connect a laptop to your Microtech & check tps.
after you cleaned your plugs try starting your car, if it doesn't hold idle under 2k, rev it up to 4k and hold it keep an eye at your wide band as you release throttle if your car leans out ... chances are that your primary injectors are done...

do you still have a charcoal canister hooked up?

 

Plugs were fouled, i cleaned them and even with cleaning them they were still so fouled the car wouldn't start.

I swapped in some old plugs i had laying around, car started right up, initally I swapped one of the leading, and the car started on 1 rotor, then i swapped both of the leading plugs out, and it started right up on both rotors.

Primary injectors are fine, they are brand new, and havent even seen any run time hardly...to be honest all my injectors are brand new, all injector dynamics.

I have a full set of BUR9eQ plugs on the way, im just happy to know my issue all along was the plugs...now I'm wondering if my bogging issue was due to having plugs that were fouled up...we'll see when I get my new ones.

Now that I know that was the issue all along, I am going to work on getting these brakes done as soon as my speed bleeders come in.

And i have no charcoal cansister, thats long gone, both are gone, I plan on hooking up an oil catch can at some point, but im not sure how I'll route it, the idea of having unfiltered oil going through my intake isnt exactly something that I think would be great.

 

Staging is a multi-parameter setting. Just raising the engine will not stage the secondaries if it is set up properly.

 

the car wouldn't start if the primaries were complete shot anyways.

 

I hope the issue I was having before was just the plugs causing it, I know it seems weird that it'd lean spike like that but is it possible it's from a misfire causing it. Idk...well see when I get new plugs

 

sorry, but i'm highly doubting it is. plugs could possibly cause a rich condition if the leadings were fouled but not a lean condition. i still believe you have an issue you haven't uncovered yet, like improper wiring, plug connection locations, timing, fuel starvation issue, bad grounds, low amperage through the wiring/relay(not voltage, since you checked).

i would check the voltage to the injectors with the engine running and see if it is significantly less than with it off.

do a volume test of the fuel system back into the tank

double and triple check grounds and your injector wiring and placements

check ignition timing, plug wire order and verify all plugs are firing just to be sure its not ignition


that's where id start. doesn't have to be in that order, but i bet you the problem is in that list somewhere.

 

All the wiring is fine, I've check the injectors before while running and off, 12v key on 14v running.

Battery ground itself is grounded to the chassis, probably not the greatest but car seems to crank well, the fuel pump has a 40amp relay on it which should be more then enough.

All the plugs are on the correct spots , I've checked the plugs in the past already and they all fire.

I'll see what happens once I get these new spark plugs installed, won't be here for a while though, makes me want to buy a set locally but 30 bucks a set is a little expensive.

Could it be that my timing has such a large jump from 5 to about 20 degrees over the course of just idle to load ? I may set it up to run a more evenly sloped timing table without the large jump.

Only other thing I can think of is the FPR , it does sometimes have some weird spikes where I've seen it drop to 30 psi from 40+ while cranking but only for a millisecond. I noticed this after switching to the aeromotive pump and taking a video of the gauge.. I wouldn't think it's the pump since it's brand new.

 

Just splurged and bought a set of bur9eq at auto zone since mine won't be arriving until around the 9th or so will see how it affects things

 

how about posting a video, had that been put up in the last thread i had like this it coulda saved about an hour or more of my time.

the timing would have to do alot more than that, more like from 5 to 50 degress to cause a hiccup. i used to have mine at 5ATDC to 25* btdc with the lightest of throttle application and i couldn't even notice it have any major affect.

grounding from the battery to the car is only half the equation, there is chassis to engine grounding and there is ECU to engine/chassis grounding to also consider. you also mentioned checking the injector pigtail routing to make sure your injectors weren't plugged into the wrong locations, but i never saw you say whether you had them correct or not.

 

What kind of video are you wanting to view with help of diagnosis? I will be installing the new spark plugs tomorrow and I can post a video of how the car acts afterwords.

I've only just started the car up briefly when I was troubleshooting the no start issue.

The ecu is wired up using a stock harness with an adapter box (I know not ideal, harness I got with it was mangled and I thought this was easier/better but found out it was more complicated).

So however it's grounded stock, is how it's currently grounded. I believe the engine harness itself is grounded to the block on the rear housing, not sure if this could create any issues since the housing is aluminum..unless I'm mistaken and it's grounded to the iron but I don't believe it is.

 

starting, idling and tip in throttle vid of the engine bay. i'd just like to actually hear it.

 

Here's a video after new plugs with new fuel pump. Problem still there.

Will post another short video soon.

 

Startup was a little weird but it holds idle much better then it did before.

 

it doesn't sound like a fuel volume issue after hearing the video, it sounds to me like your low RPM maps still need more fuel above 15"Hg to 2psi. the pump settings still have a slight delay and that is where a slightly richer low RPM map comes in. idle, 1000 and 1500 all are used in off idle tip in enrichment. don't stop at just 0"Hg either, add extra fuel in the 2psi range since that is also part of the equation.

i have had plenty of tunes that acted that way, just gotta focus on the 10/5/0"hg/2psi settings.

 

Thanks. Maybe I've just been going about adjusting it the wrong way , I'm not sure how exactly the curve should be adjusted.

 

My friend thats been helping me said We tried richening up the map there, Not Sure If I Remember but its Worth trying again.

Only other ideas are my map source, wiring, or something in fuel system restricted.

My map source and fpr source are right after the Tb on the back of the uim (fd uim/tb).

I'm under the impression that this problem will be considerably worse under load , or am I wrong ?

Static fuel pressure is set to roughly 45 psi, upon looking at the fuel maps from others, my injector open time is higher at idle then everyone with smaller injectors...is it possible my fpr gauge has a wrong reading or that I may still have something restricting my fuel system ?

I may go ahead and buy a new gauge for my fpr just to be sure...I've turned up pressure high before and the gauge went haywire spinning all the way around past 100...so maybe it's defective...or mayyyybe my fpr is ? I've also noticed my fuel pressure drops after the car is shut off with this new aeromotive pump more then it did with the walbro pump, could my check valve in the pump be bad ? how long should i still have pressure and how much of a dropoff should there be ?

 

I read a few postings and seems like you're way lost, Forget tuning in Matrix mode, Use the graft instead, go to autozone and buy some motorcycle plugs for testing such as NGK B9ES or any cross reference will work, take off the injectors and spray some carb cleaner, blow them with high pressure air from the bottom side.

From what you posted that it got better running rich, It seems to me like a fuel delivery issue to the secondaries, possibly from the injectors not operating correctly/clogged, maybe wiring, injector output not working or settings in the ecu.

 

The injectors are brand new... (zero road time). And I've already taken them off to check if anything was in the filters on top and their was nothing.

 

Try the other things, Don't get stuck on the injectors, make a low voltage test bulb to make sure the injectors output are working, go over everything again, start with the basics

 

the car wouldn't respond like that if the injectors were fucked up, or if the volume really was an issue. tip in off idle is ok, as seen in the video, telling me it is in the settings.

you can try setting idle timing to 15-20 degrees and see if that makes a big difference.

 

Here's a second short video showing more of the issue, with more of just a tip in from idle (ignore the rattle it's likely my heat shield on the turbo that isn't fully bolted on)

https://youtu.be/m2exEeYtuvo

Also not sure if this would be related but it's worth mentioning, the throttle sometimes sticks open when simultaneously opened and closed several times and will stay at around 4000 rpm, I'm really not sure what is causing the issue. I don't believe it's the cable as the throttle cane was at resting position, it seems like the plates are sticking open when they are suppose to shut for some reason.

 

you will have to check for things binding on the linkages. i know i had a similar issue when i deleted my thermowax but didn't take all those linkages off properly.

 

I took the thermowax off on this too , I the previous owner took off a bunch of other stuff, the bac valve, and secondary plates are removed that are in the uim.

I want to take it on the road and try it out with the maps bumped up in lower rpm, tuning that transition seems difficult.