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Microtech Timing seems off, simple question, duty or time

Old 04-27-10, 09:13 PM
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Timing seems off, simple question, duty or time

Okay so the car is fairly rough on idle. After 10-15 mins of running, the turbo hotside glows red.

Now microtech told me to never run on time base or I will fry my coils or ecu. . . My setup is lt10s no x4 box, stock coils. All the maps i'm seeing for the lt10s are set on time. Is this only because of the box? Thinking this could possibly be my issue. I'm seeing lots of success on this map on these forums, and not so much for me.

Can anyone quickly verify this for me?
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Old 04-27-10, 09:39 PM
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which map?

and what time base are you talking about?

what port do you have?

what is your car idling at?
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Old 04-27-10, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Travis V View Post
Okay so the car is fairly rough on idle. After 10-15 mins of running, the turbo hotside glows red.

Now microtech told me to never run on time base or I will fry my coils or ecu. . . My setup is lt10s no x4 box, stock coils. All the maps i'm seeing for the lt10s are set on time. Is this only because of the box? Thinking this could possibly be my issue. I'm seeing lots of success on this map on these forums, and not so much for me.

Can anyone quickly verify this for me?
righto,, s6 igniter = time base dwell ( fixed period )
s4/5 igniter dwell = duty , 26%


having the wrong selection can be fatal to the igniter or the driver or the coil
( as can overcharge and pull way too much current )

however,, changing from fixed time to duty % dwell should have nil bearing on the physical timing of the engine
-- the ECU will adjust the window accordingly --
( though incorrect trigger polarities may effect timing or produce phantom trigger or missing trigger abnormalities )

use the s4/5 lt8 settings if using s4/5 igniters,, use the s6 ( time ) setting if using the s6 igniter or the IGBT box

check your trigger polarities are the same as the s4/5 LT8 diagram
check the timing with timing lock on ,, and also mark your pulley for 10 BTDC and 25 BTDC
( use protractor and the existing -5, -20 split gap already on the pulley,, make the two new marks clockwise on the pulley )

use the 25 BTDC mark when unlocked and engine is free revved to 4000 rpm
( most maps will put the timing very close to 25 BTDC at 4000 rpm, nil load )

this is to verify that trigger polarity is not inadvertently retarding the ignition at revs


my suspicions are the motor is timed badly, or timed to the -20 ADTC mark instead of the -5 one

realistically most mild engines will prefer a 5 BTDC timing at idle,, and wilder ones at 10 BTDC
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Old 04-27-10, 11:20 PM
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Thanks for clearing that up bumpstart...

If I haven't moved my cas at all, and it's been there since stock... Should I be worried?

I'm really at a fork in the road right now. Tomorrow morning the car is scheduled for dyno at 10am. Tonight I got my last crack at getting it, and I just can't get my idle down to 750 to do timing. Stays around 1500-1700, timing at 15, doesn't fluctuate. I did not get to the point of checking timing, and thinking I should tow this car the more than likely 100-150 tow. Instead of paying the 3k-5k rebuild if it were to blow. It really bugs me though if I can drive it or not. I did take it around the block and seems fine to me, that was only up to about 30km/h and no boost. I know there is some farm roads I could go 50km on, would I be fine?
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Old 04-27-10, 11:56 PM
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i wouldnt drive it so badly mistimed
it will overheat the seal springs and likely crack and warp exhaust flanges/ turbine cover if driven for that long with retarded timing
( seen a NEW cat killed in very short order by a shop who couldnt get their head around haltech trigger tooth and ref basics , unfortunately its a haltech dealer,, only one in my state,, morons )

the best tip i can give is to wind on a little fast idle ,, ie 1200- 1500 rpm
set the static timing to 10 BTDC and timing trim to 0
calibrate the TPS to show asterisk,, even at this fast idle stop position
mark the pulley as directed for 10 BTDC and move the CAS to suit this
( as at 10 BTDC and a fast idle the motor should stay running )

lock down the CAS nut when you are getting a 10 BTDC position and undo the timing lock
THEN sneak down the idle stop to a 1000 rpm idle
- and in doing so you may have to use mix trim or idle fuel map to juggle the fuel volumes +/- 5% to smooth out any hunt or hiccup

( with micro and no idle control BACv its prudent to set a faster than normal idle in case P/s or aircon load stalls the engine )
recalibrate the TPS in the handset

you MUST do these basic steps ,, THEN you may well be able to drive off boost and sort the tune
( provided you also verify the fuel pressure and injector sizing is similar to that of the source map )
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Old 04-28-10, 12:10 AM
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^ I wish I had time to do that man. But a this point I have to throw in the towel. Pouring rain outside and dark, so no go... Towing it's. I'm trying to have it ready for this weekend. Will be coming out of a one year hibernation, straight into dyno, and followed by autocross this sunday.

I'm sure that will be of help to some people that may have this issue.
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