I wired everything according to diagram and when I was done I turned the key and the microtech isn't turning on. I double checked all the wires and used the multimeter and do have 12v coming into it, but the unit is not turning on. Can anybody provide any help? Thanks in advance.

 

Make sure you've got power to the switched lead (pink) as well as the main red wire (which should see a constant +12VDC). It's got to see +12VDC or the unit won't power on.

Brandon
BR7 Racing

Edit: make sure it's the right pink wire! there're two!

 

that's what I did originally wrong on my wireup. I never gave the pink wire a 12v ign source. *doh*.... after giving it that.. the car for some reason started....

 

make sure you got a good switched source
It could be turning off power when you turn the key
if you got it hooked up to a bad ign source

----------
Providing Switched Power for power relays]
On the Ser 4/GTR FC3S: 86-88
6-lead plug near the driver's side; all female; white (AAS harness)
- the bottom center (black or blue w/ red stripe)
On the main ignition harness near the main ignition relay near the trailing ignitor pack, there is a 2-lead white
conncetour plug. The thin-gaged (18AWG) black with white striped and red notched lead can be spliced into.


On the Ser 5/GTX FC3S: 89-91
The 6-lead green test equipment plug;
- Use the top center female spaded of the six (there are actually only three in there)
- The top center one is referenced by the plug's small plastic flap above it

 

Thanks, my home internet conection is down, so I have to use the work computer. I'll check the pink wire when I get home. You are talking about the one that goes to the fuel pump relay right? I see it's a postive on the diagram. I have it hooked directly up to the relay, do I need to splice into a 12v ignition source also, even though the relay sees 12v? Please excuse my nooBness, I just want to make sure BEFORE anything stupid happends.

 

This wire is pink, and is labelled as "IGN ON" - that's the one you want. There's another one that's pink and bound to a green wire and supposed to be run to the fuel pump - that's not the one.

Good luck,
Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

Alright, I have the unit powering up now, I didn't give the leading coil a 12v switch source. Thanks for the help

I am getting the red LED flashing. In the error log screen it says I have an error with the water temp. I tried replacing the probe, nothing, replaced/re-solidered the plug and it's still flashing. Any ideas?

Can I try to start the car with the error light on?

 

heeh are you positive you wired the correct sensor? is you're wiring good to go? If that sensor was working fine before you started your project and now it's not .. it's gotta be wiring issue.

 

I used the probe that's on the filler neck, under the alternator. This is the right one right?

 

There are two water temp probes down there - one has a round connector and is one-wire, the other has a square connector and is two-wire. You want the square one. The car should start okay without that sensor, but the water temp correction won't work right, so the car won't be 100%. If you MUST get it started, it will, but I'd recommend going ahead and hooking it up right first.

Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

I have been short on time to work on my car, but a new problem has come up. I am not getting any spark from my trailing coils. I checked the CAS, and coils, they are both good. Checked the 12v switched plug(2 tan wires), and the coil is getting 12v. I cleaned the grounding point, and added additional grounding wires, and still I am getting nothing from the coil. The tach isn't bouncing durring cranking. in the diagram it says one of the wires is N/C, does this mean not connected?

I used a timing light to check for spark. The motor has 120psi on both rotors. The tach used to work, after I installed the EMS. Is it possible I inadvertantly "turned off" the trailing coil?

 

Have you tried another coil?

 

Yes n/c means not connected.,

have you tryed different plugs?? as fouled plugs will lead to no spark travling down the wire, if the plugs are good check to see you have everything wired correctly at the trailing coil, ie colours are hooked up correctly.

dale

 

I tried differnt plugs/wires/coils and still nothing. I am leaving for the Indy RX-7 meat tomarrow. The tach still isn't bouncing.

I checked all the wiring about a thousand times, and it all looks right. I am having some friends come over tonight, so there will be a fresh set of eyes to help me.

 

how do you have the coils wired?
which wire is hooked up (color) "on the" coil(not the old stock passenger side harness) to the color of the harness


also post how you have the CAS wired with the corresponding colors

 

Sounds like you have not wired the CAS connector properly.

 

The problem was cold soliders. The car runs great now, thanks a bunch for all the help.

 

Cold solders? What do you mean?

 

Bad solder joints.

 

Bad solder joints. Grey and grainy instead of shiny. Specifically, around the leading coil. This resulted in erratic spark when the engine began to vibrate.

 

You mean those are supposed to be shiny? All the ones Ive ever done (on car stereo equipment) were just grey, and Ive never had a problem with them.

 

All solder joints should be shiny.

See http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm