Was wondering what settings I need to be playing with to stop a stalling problem I am having. In traffic if I hit the brakes and take the car out of gear the load from the brake booster will either stall the car or the RPMs will drop so low that it almost stalls and the same thing will happen when turning (I do have power steering). If both things are happening at the same time the car will stall.

Idle is around 800, give or take 100rpm or so. This doesn't happen all the time, but it happens on a regular basis.

Thanks

 

Got any datalogs?

Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

My money is on your alternator, what is your voltage?

 

Once you go with a FD Alternator, you never go back!

 

I do have datalogs, but I can't see anything out of the ordinary. I guess I will have to email them to you and let you take a look at them

I don't think it is the alternator since this problem started after the microtech. But, what would make you think that the alternator could be a problem? I have never heard of an alternator that is going bad causing a stalling problem when turning or PS usage. I have driven with a bad alternator and none of the problems I faced were these.

Just curious

 

Try adding more fuel on high vacuum - the injectors might be sticking closed or something wierd. What are your injector pulsewidths when it stalls?

Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

Well, I just looked at my datalogs again and I do not have one from when it actually stalls, I don't think I have ever been able to save one once the car stalls. But, all the ones I have when the RPMs drop low, but the car is able to catch it self look like the image I have put below.



http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/misc/stall.bmp

I will try to get a datalog of an actual stall, but again, I think ones the engine is off, it doesn't let me save the datalog.

Has there been an update of software since last? I currently have Beta Version 1.1

 

Hmm. It almost looks like it's getting too much fuel. Odd. When it stalls, does it sputter or just shut itself off?

Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

What is your voltage with your foot on the brake? It looks like you are in the 12 range. I was told if it drops below 12 the MT will cut fuel and spark.

 

Well I found one in which the car actually stalled.

http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/misc/stall2.bmp

The volts on the other datalogs have been around 12.5volts. I do have the RB alternator pulley, so that is the the most logical reason why my volts are low. The alternator is fairly new.

 

Yah too much fuel

 

It's not that obvious; I think you're looking at after his car is already stalled.

 

You could try bumping your timing up a couple degrees. My engine usually "settles" then goes back up to normal idle... settling about 150 rpms less than idle.

 

I already tried adding a few degrees of timing but I can't recall where the timing is at off the top of my head. I will need to get in there and see what it is at for both fuel and timing.

 

I just remembered, Carl - Ray's a big fan of the decel fuel cut... is yours turned on? Turn it off if it is.

Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

please let me know injectors size on your car,i help you out,or call me at central florida turbo 321 235 9959.Rolo.i have same problem with a car using stock injectors.

 

You will find that the engine is dropping vacuum when the extra load is applied from the power steering & dropping from more than likely the 20" idle site down to the 15" idle site.
Try & add some extra fuel in this site.It will be a bit lean.
I also like to run about 12deg idle timing & 1000 rpm idle speed also to help these stalling problems.
Plug the laptop in & make sure you have a nice smooth upward curve on your idle map. & richen up the 15" site till it stops stalling
Jon

 

I have to stock non turbo injectors.

 

I did richen it up a little bit and it helped out some. I guess I need to keep going. I don't have an EGT yet so I really don't want to play around too much since I don't know whats good and bad just yet.

My values for the idle map are 2.33 at 30, 2.48 at 24, 2.52 at 18, 2.76 at 12, 2.71 at 6 and the timing map for idle is from 30 to 12 timing is 8 and at 6 it is 6. I guess I need to smooth out the fuel a bit and take the timing to 12 degrees.

Also, I am pulling about 17 in of vacuum at idle.

 

17" vacuum at idle isn very much.
Try winding the idle speed up on the throttle plates so it's at 1000 rpm.(make sure you re calibrate the TPS afterwards)
set Trpm idle to 15deg,1000rpm to 17deg & 1500rpm to 19 deg.
go to the screen that the car is idling on & lean it out gradually till it almost stalls & then go 2 clicks up from there.Don't worry about egt's.You're not going to hurt anything at idle!!!
once you have found where the engine is happiest in terms of idle speed & vacuum,then go back & smooth the idle map out either side of where you made the adjustment & make sure you have that nice progressive curve.
A good engine should be around 19"-20" at idle with an idle speed around 1000rpm.
Jon