Microtech LT8s no worky
LT8s no worky
No lights come on with the key in, could these be the culprit?
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_IMG_3295.jpg
^ this is the harness on the microtech...whats this wire for?
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_IMG_3298.jpg
^ this is under my blower? uhh was it taped for power or something?
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_IMG_3293.jpg
^this is just hanging there did this go somewhere, it comes off the stock ecu harness.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_IMG_3295.jpg
^ this is the harness on the microtech...whats this wire for?
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_IMG_3298.jpg
^ this is under my blower? uhh was it taped for power or something?
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_IMG_3293.jpg
^this is just hanging there did this go somewhere, it comes off the stock ecu harness.
Ok its very simple to get a green light on the microtech.
3 things you have to test
The RED wire on the microtech harness should have 12V+ ALL THE TIME.(Use a test light, put aligator clip on any metal part of the car or the negative on the battery)
The PINK wire on the microtech harness should have 12V+ on IGNITION(when the reds come on the dash and while cranking)(Use a test light, put aligator clip on any metal part of the car or the negative on the battery)
Finally
The 2 BROWN wires on the microtech harness should have be GROUNDED all the time. You can use a multimeter or a test light to do this. If your going to use a multimeter put the aligator clip on the test light on the positive of the battery and put the test light it self on each brown wire and it should light up.
Or if you want to use the multimeter, put it in continuity mode and switch the beeper on, and touch one probe on the brown wire and one probe on a metal part of the car and it should beep.
If any one of these isnt the way it should be like i have described above this is why the microtech isnt switching on. IF all of these are correct and the microtech is still not switching on, you either have below 8v in your battery or microtech is fried.
3 things you have to test
The RED wire on the microtech harness should have 12V+ ALL THE TIME.(Use a test light, put aligator clip on any metal part of the car or the negative on the battery)
The PINK wire on the microtech harness should have 12V+ on IGNITION(when the reds come on the dash and while cranking)(Use a test light, put aligator clip on any metal part of the car or the negative on the battery)
Finally
The 2 BROWN wires on the microtech harness should have be GROUNDED all the time. You can use a multimeter or a test light to do this. If your going to use a multimeter put the aligator clip on the test light on the positive of the battery and put the test light it self on each brown wire and it should light up.
Or if you want to use the multimeter, put it in continuity mode and switch the beeper on, and touch one probe on the brown wire and one probe on a metal part of the car and it should beep.
If any one of these isnt the way it should be like i have described above this is why the microtech isnt switching on. IF all of these are correct and the microtech is still not switching on, you either have below 8v in your battery or microtech is fried.
Hey, I checked all the wiring it seem'd that what it was is my battery was under 7v.
Now it's all charged up and when i turn the key to "on" the lt8 just buzzes.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...j/IMG_3293.jpg
This black wire is off the stock ECU harness.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...j/IMG_3295.jpg
Does this blue wire do anything?
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...j/IMG_3298.jpg
This was spliced into...wonder why?
Now it's all charged up and when i turn the key to "on" the lt8 just buzzes.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...j/IMG_3293.jpg
This black wire is off the stock ECU harness.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...j/IMG_3295.jpg
Does this blue wire do anything?
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...j/IMG_3298.jpg
This was spliced into...wonder why?
The blue red wire isnt your issue.
So is your battery well charged now?
When the computers buzz, its because its not grounding power properly or not getting power properly.
Follow the brown wires in the harness and they should lead to a THICK black wire. Make sure that is earthed properly.
Get your multimeter, put it on resistance, and check to make sure their is 0 resistance between the chassis and the brown wires.
IF their anything more then 0.3 ohms their is a problem.
So is your battery well charged now?
When the computers buzz, its because its not grounding power properly or not getting power properly.
Follow the brown wires in the harness and they should lead to a THICK black wire. Make sure that is earthed properly.
Get your multimeter, put it on resistance, and check to make sure their is 0 resistance between the chassis and the brown wires.
IF their anything more then 0.3 ohms their is a problem.
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silverrotor
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Nov 6, 2003 12:53 AM




