Microtech Intermediate cas signal lose Lt10s
#1
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Intermediate cas signal lose Lt10s
I have a solid green light with a solid yellow with the key is on if you push the throttle the light will go out indicating my tps is working properly.
Now crank it and and no yellow at all mysterious it will start blinking but not in the rhythm it should makes a funny sound and start blinking right and start imediately
It runs great when its running just like it did since i had it down to kdr less than a month ago.I have swaped cases with no change, moved it from any major power cords, checked wires going in both cases
Exept for soldering the cas plug direct to the microtech harness and cleaning all positing and negative mounting points Im out of ideas
Now crank it and and no yellow at all mysterious it will start blinking but not in the rhythm it should makes a funny sound and start blinking right and start imediately
It runs great when its running just like it did since i had it down to kdr less than a month ago.I have swaped cases with no change, moved it from any major power cords, checked wires going in both cases
Exept for soldering the cas plug direct to the microtech harness and cleaning all positing and negative mounting points Im out of ideas
#2
talking head
I have a solid green light with a solid yellow with the key is on if you push the throttle the light will go out indicating my tps is working properly.
Now crank it and and no yellow at all mysterious it will start blinking but not in the rhythm it should makes a funny sound and start blinking right and start imediately
It runs great when its running just like it did since i had it down to kdr less than a month ago.I have swaped cases with no change, moved it from any major power cords, checked wires going in both cases
Exept for soldering the cas plug direct to the microtech harness and cleaning all positing and negative mounting points Im out of ideas
Now crank it and and no yellow at all mysterious it will start blinking but not in the rhythm it should makes a funny sound and start blinking right and start imediately
It runs great when its running just like it did since i had it down to kdr less than a month ago.I have swaped cases with no change, moved it from any major power cords, checked wires going in both cases
Exept for soldering the cas plug direct to the microtech harness and cleaning all positing and negative mounting points Im out of ideas
when you crank it reverts to being the ignition pulse indicator
normal to see it erratic at a slow cranking speed and it may drop out if the voltage from ignition relay is very weak during cranking
( often this issue is related to carbon on the starter switch )
cars with such symptoms often catch and run when you let go of the key
the fix can be as simple as using another supplementary relay to hot the coils during cranking only
use the starter solenoid wire to swing said relay
#4
talking head
normal enough
if you think you have a problem with RFI you should look over the earthing,, particularly the earth that it is in the ignition bundle should be on the block
you should endever to pull the CAS harness well away from the alt and the HT wires and also the ignition bundle and fans
even if these means a different firewall bung
in persist issue cars i buy some shielded coax and run my own CAS bundle the long way around the bay and tie the shield end to the ecu case and to earth
but also critical during cranking particularly is the air gaps for pickups within the CAS,, be sure they are 0.4 mm or less
also check that there is no problems with shorts in wires where they travell through the grommet in the side of the CAS,, uber common m
if you think you have a problem with RFI you should look over the earthing,, particularly the earth that it is in the ignition bundle should be on the block
you should endever to pull the CAS harness well away from the alt and the HT wires and also the ignition bundle and fans
even if these means a different firewall bung
in persist issue cars i buy some shielded coax and run my own CAS bundle the long way around the bay and tie the shield end to the ecu case and to earth
but also critical during cranking particularly is the air gaps for pickups within the CAS,, be sure they are 0.4 mm or less
also check that there is no problems with shorts in wires where they travell through the grommet in the side of the CAS,, uber common m