Trots*88TII-AE*

iTrader: (11)

Haltech?!? What's that?!?

What kind of coils are you running off the X4 box? Make sure that it is setup for it, so it doesn't do any strange things like the S4 trailing coil switching signal.

bumpstart

i am pretty much trying to avoid trouble shooting micros now but i just happened to read your log and i cant help myself

there is nothing wrong with your ECU beyond its cheapness and **** resolution and lack of features

,, its all in the setup



several key points--

dunno if anybody else is awake but for the entire log not once does your TPS calibrate to zero

without the zero and asterisk you will never sit on the correct idle map , or get the off throttle accel pump function

the motor will infact try to sustain on the load map
( which is a wildly fluctuating BP signal at very poor vacuum )
and will see the warm up correction,, and that MAP look up table and effective drown the engine

00 TDC timing at crank,, then straight with virtually no interpolation to 20 degrees BTDC isnt helping either

if you calibrate the TPS,, it will sit on a fixed dedicated idle map, with idle dedicated timing

this will amount to MUCH less fuel,, and much better effective compression at ignition point ( due to timing )

idle timing will be 10-15 BTDC with a heavily ported engine

2
if you run the load = TPS mode,, it will instead look at throttle position to judge load when off boost ,, then boost for the other remaining plot points

( NB,, you will need aftermarket TPS,, or full range s5 TPS to make best of this one )

this makes for a much easier tune on cars that run less than 10" vac idles and so have a very narrow vacuum scale with uber poor definition


how to fi it from here
wind open the throttle stop so the motor will be at a guesstimated 1500 - 2000 rpm idle

CALIBRATE the TPS engine not running at this point
any further moves to adjust throttle will ALWAYS require a recalibration

make sure the idle timing maps start at around 10 degrees
set static timing to 10, THEN go and check TMAX setting,, be sure its never more than about 30
- if ever you shift static or timing trim,, be wary it may alter TMAX and other timing bins as a nasty habit
be sure to check them and return them to what you require

once the idle has run 500 km you can start to fiddle the idle lower and think about running boost and tuning it fully

hotmail6

Ha, I had checked back on this page quite a few times without noticing that it had gone onto page two. @bumpstart, damn man thats some good info there & probably would have had me going too if I still had the microtech in there. I have the Haltech sitting in there at the moment and a few rows of strip connectors until I am happy all wires are going to the right places. I have wired the factory igniter back in after removing the X4 box. I can't get a spark out all else is good but have called it a day for now. If I have ongoing problems I will start an "OMG no spark" thread in the Haltech forum so as not to offend the die hard Microtech fans ay Trots

Trots*88TII-AE*

iTrader: (11)

Believe me bud, I was turned off from microtech like nobody else, until I realized that the alternatives in the same price range are ****. The difference is that the microtech's are at least reliable.

flaco

iTrader: (7)

true that

hotmail6

Update. Sucessfully hack and slashed the microtech loom into the Haltech loom. A couple of hickups along the way but once everything was sorted it started up first time no worries ( like, it's never started this good before).