Samito Built

iTrader: (38)

Well I purchased a Lt-8 a few weeks back PnP for FD application and have a couple of questions. My first question is the static timing screen what does it need to be set at in order to configure the ecu to give me accurate timing. I currently have it set to 7 degrees but I'm not sure if its 7 or 10. My racecar has a lt10 x4 box and the static is set to 0 and I stab the cas @ 0 instead of -5 Atdc like microtech recommends. So I can get accurate timing with no guesswork if that make sense.

My second question is if I change static will it change my timing maps automatically. Now I know static at 7 degrees and 0 will not give the same degrees of timing. I think my timing rpm physically changed with me not touching anything when I changed the static.

thanks in advance

bumpstart

static is the minimum timing number the ecu will allow itself to drop to .. the opposite of the T max function

be aware shifting the static or timing trims will push the tmax value around,, always go back and be sure tmax is reestablished at the max value you wish to see if you have played with static or timing trim

if you have a fully marked up pulley in crank degrees and use a zero or a 5 or a 10 BTDC timing mark and have the static value set at the same zero, 5 or 10 BTDC as the timing light relates then you have timed the engine and the ECU together in TRUE crank degrees

if you follow instead the usual micro methods you end up timing the engine to 5 ATDC , thus all maps are smudged -5 from true crank degree values
on an FD that is fix the timing split at 15 , lock the timing with static value of zero ...
and then to use the pin and single mark with the Trailing 1 lead on the timing light .. thus setting T1 to 20 ATDC,, and naturally L1 is then automatically 5 ATDC or -5 ..


PS
thus.. on a engine and ECU set to REAL crank degrees a natural setting for Tmax is 25 BTDC.. but on one set up the micro recommended method.. would amount to Tmax= 30

this will limit all the corrected ignition maps to never giving a spark earlier than a REAL 25 BTDC under any conditions which is the accepted safe thing to do when using ecus like micros that are not so obvious what all the correction maps are doing at once

Samito Built

iTrader: (38)

Thank you bumpstart for clarifying this it now make sense to me.

Samito Built

iTrader: (38)

Hey bump start I'm a little stuck and unsure about something thought id ask you see if you can help. I have my FD up and running but doesn't feel likes its making power yet. I really think my ignition timing is pushed to retarded. I marked my pulley to TDC so I can get true timing and see where I'm at. The timing light is hooked on L1 and set to 0 no advance. My static timing is set to +7 on the micro. But my green TDC mark I have on the main pulley is not lined up in fact it looks like its a few degrees retard. Since there's no CAS where I can physically turn and synchronized the engine timing with the micro. What do I adjust to get this timing in sync static or timing trim or neither? I took a picture of what I see with the timing light on and the micro in lock timing. Any help would help bumpstart thanks. The car has a lt8 plug and play for stock fd harness. The custom pointer in the picture is the TDC pointer that needs to lined up with the green dot to be true timing.

bumpstart

not exactly sure how you went about finding a TDC and marking it

the mark and pointer on the early FD pulley is 20ATDC
.. making a new mark 20 degrees clockwise ahead of this one will give you a genuine TDC
( [ pulley circumference divided by 360 ] x 20 = ? mm )
.. add this result clockwise to the mark on the main pulley to have a genuine TDC mark

( the result is in true crank degrees, all look up table map values represent real BTDC values )


the alternative way to do things is to time the engine ( running ) using the t2 spark lead, lining up the mazda pointer and the mazda dot
,, with all timing split tables set to 20 and static set at zero , adjusting using timing trim
( the result is also true crank degrees )




as is .. looking at that ..
you are currently firing BEFORE the "TDC" mark .. around 7 - 10 degrees BTDC.. funnily enough.. that is what the static timing value is telling it to do


for timing purpose.. set the static to whatever the timing mark is .. in this case,, zero

this will retard the current timing 7 degrees and i expect will bring things very close to your mark


if it is not.. use the timing trim to exactly zero out the dot and your pointer

when done .. you can undo the timing lock..
and set the static value to whatever value you wish to idle and crank at
( ie, 0 , 5 or 10 BTDC for most mildly worked engines )

the engine will then idle at whatever that static value is.. and the look up map tables will represent true crank degrees,
,, allowing you to use timing values as seen in haltech and other brands timing maps

WHEN YOU HAVE DONE ALL THIS GO BACK AND CHECK YOUR TMAX VALUE IS STILL A VALID NUMBER .. ie about 25 for those with real crank degrees
and about 30 for those who used a -5 ( 5 atdc ) timing mark with a static value of zero ( FC pulley )

Samito Built

iTrader: (38)

( [ pulley circumference divided by 360 ] x 20 = ? mm )
.. add this result clockwise to the mark on the main pulley to have a genuine TDC mark

Thats how we marked and found TDC using the method you mentioned.

I'm going to lock the timing, set the static to 0 but if the pointer doesn't line up with my tdc mark just use the timing trim function and adjust accordingly.Then unlock timing and verify my my Tmax is a valid number I think mines is set at 30. Ill try it out thanks