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well im upgrading my fuel system soon here to 720's and 1680's.. ill work more ino matrix once i gete everything installed. no sense in spending 3-4 hours tuning when your just gonna need to change it all.
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Thats it.!
Let us know when you order your injectors! Maybe i can help you out. |
16 -17psi on c16 and afrs around 11.5 stock port...what kinda power should i be expecting? and how much for 12 psi same 11.5 afr on 90 oct?
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Originally Posted by rx72c
(Post 8051824)
im talking 45 litre tanks.
If that fuel economy in your opinion isnt good then im sorry i couldnt meet your standards. But in my opinion they are much better then mazda figures. With a microtech. Staging small and big injectors smoothly will always get your a rich spot. Especially 550/1700cc injectors. High impedence injectors generally have a very good spray pattern, generally means you can run leaner then with a low impedence injector. Having the same size injectors means you wont have a rich whole in your map. This only applies to microtechs. I have an fd with lt10, excesive lower manifold wich has 4 bungs for 4 injectors, I was going to run 4 x 1000cc and plug the stock primary injector bungs but I was talked out of it for better idling & drivebility with the stock primaries, also have gt4094r turbo with stock primary injectors and 2x 1600cc secondary's, twin in tank fuel pump's, fp on idle is around 42lb, and street ported, what would u recomend 4 my setup run 4 injectors in one rail, run 2 & 2 or 4 & 2, if I can get anywhere near ur economy I'll change everything on a hart beat also will 4 x 1000cc saturaded be enough fuel for 500whp on streat gas thanx 4 ur help tony |
Originally Posted by BluRR
(Post 8054904)
16 -17psi on c16 and afrs around 11.5 stock port...what kinda power should i be expecting? and how much for 12 psi same 11.5 afr on 90 oct?
Well keeping the stock primaries in their location is good for your fuel economy start up and drivability so id keep them their. 1000cc injectors are all low impedance and have a fairly crappy spray pattern so they wont help really that much. Ideally youd have 4X1000 cc secondaries and 2X 550cc primaries but the trick would be to have 3 stages. So it would be 2X550cc then 2X1000cc then when you need it again another 2X1000cc. But that would require you to send your comp back to microtech. really not worth the hassle. Id get your car on a dyno, clean your cruise area up, add some timing, work hard to clean out your staging area and it should get you descent fuel economy. |
Greddy T-78
550 pri and 1680 sec injectors stock ports custom v-mount with greddy IC and fluidyne Rad supra pump MT LT8 Thats the important stuff i guess |
I am not familiar with the turbo.
Have any specs on it? |
so im going 13b-re what would you recommend as far as choosing injectors with a lt10s
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Power figure? or Target?
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tony, what boost levels are you planing to run? or power figures? that will determine how much fuel you MUST have, and then you can figure out the setup you want. 4 x 1000cc should be enough, but like stated above, the low imp aspect might not work so well. how about some bigger primaries ( 720, 850, maybe 1000 if you want) and use the 1600s in the secondary.
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o and i got my fuel upgrade completed. i broke an earl 6an fitting too. i didnt know that was even possible..... :wallbash:
my laptop also broke so i cant tune it till i get ahold of another one. it was just a bad day for me.. |
http://www.runyourcarwithwater.com/?...fr11lgoddgnzca
check that out and tell me what you think... hahaha thought i was kinda funny being at the bottom of a thread discussing fuel economy.. |
this is the turbo I am running
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS I can go with bigger primary just afraid of loosing drivability & economy I am running 18 pounds of boost but still havent gunned it all the way just finished braking the engine in I am new to rotary world whats the leanest I can run on idle with full street port? I cant gett it to idle good over 12.5ar my 1st 3 tanks of gass I did 180 miles on 18 galons me and my friend base tuned it rich needs lots of clean up will get me a laptop adapter for microtech and learn new to microtech also another idea can I run 2 more primaries saturated on my secondary rail to run at the same time with the factory primaryes lets say another 370cc and trim them down low can they be wired to run same time? thanx tony |
18lbs of boost tony? is this on pump? what kinda gas you using? if its 93 that maybe a bit high for saftey. try to keep it at 15 and below 18 is asking for touble.
As for you idle, what rpm are you idling at? you can try and advance your timing at idle, to like 15deg or so. i can get mine to idle at about 13.7 afr fairly smoothly. Rx72c will tell you idle about 11.4 or so to allow for traffic and fuel boil. Rx72c i hear alot of factory cars idle at 14.+ afr. why do we need to go so rich? |
Its just the microtechs that seems to need to run so rich.
with the microtech, cant adjust the idle in fine increments to get a stable lean mixture. AND the microtech dosnt account for fuel boil and lights etc correctly. So have to compromise unfortunately. 18pounds of boost is alot of for 93 octane. only run that on 98. |
11.7ar wow that will make my economy even worst :(
idling its been tricky cant gett it where I whant it if I turn the adjuster screw althe way it idles 1000-1100 when hot but drops and barely runs when cold if I adjustit cold 1000rpm when hot it gets up to 1500rpm I have been running 18psi boost on my other turbo cars regularly with no knocks even in texas hot weather I think us 93 is same as 98 over seas thanx guys tony |
Rotary engines are different from piston engines. I used to run 17 psi on 90 octance on my early evos...would event think about it now. Right now 12-13psi on my FD feels far faster than 18psi on the evo. You dont need to go as high boost levels to make the same power as say a 2litre boosted car. Try and keep it at 15psi and below on the 93 octane. Ppl have down more than that and survived to tell the tale, but alot have not been so lucky.
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have you tried adjust you for water maps to compensate for for the cold start to warm up? and also make sure everytime you turn that idle screw you readjust your tps calibration or it gonna be have funny still.
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If you have it idling at 1000rpm when warm. it will idle 650-700rpm when cold.
it should idle their no problems. you just need to adjust your cold start map. 11.7 afr on idle isnt going to affect your fuel economy like your thinking. most of your economy will come from lean cruise and light load points and clean fuel mixtures in the heavy load/boost areas. |
since I dont have the laptop adapter & gaved away my lap top,
I will have a local tuner clean it up, hope I get better economy, any tips to make sure we get it right thanx tony |
Tune in matrix mode. And spend as much time as you can to cover all areas of the map.
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thanx rx72c,
now the car feals great we cleand it up alot today, but not all the way the o2 sensor on the dyno was messing up good news we got 446whp @ 16 pounds peak and my tuner sold me a serial adapter so as soon as I get me a lap top will try to clean it up some more thanx again tony |
446 HP FARKEN HELL
AWESOME POWER. Congratulations mate. Let us know with the progress. |
just a q.
but should i leave my REVstg set at 2750? or lower it due to the larger injectors. i know this only "ARMS" them, but im just curious.... |
I usually kick the 1700cc at 1320rpm so that im not trying to tune through the stage point.
It also makes the transition smoother. |
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