I lost my engine sometime ago and did a rebuild. I made a lot of changes: changed the porting (experimental large street port), ended up with a lt-8x ecu which turned out to be programmed for a FC instead of FD ( I have a FD). Anyways after much doing etc I got the car to start and run. It is very very hard to start when cold. When hot it starts right up quite easily and consistently.

I tried playing the crank and water temp settings all day yesterday but not thing got it started cold. Most times I pull the plugs when trying to get it started they are wet. So i leave them out, disconnect the pump and run the starter for a little to clear the chamber, dry the plugs and try again. I pulled the crank and water values for the cold temp (around 30-46 deg) all the way down and pulled them back up slowly while try to start the car but no luck. Sometimes it sound like it wants to start but just doesnt get there.

I am using the original rotary plugs 7 and 9 in it. The only other plugs I have are some NGK BR10s EIX i think. The original plugs are old but I dont think they are very high mileage.

What can I do?

And the second question is since I am using the Lt8-x setup for the FC on the fd and it starts and run, is it ok to use it?
I havent really driven it around, just back and forth in the driveway. It idles and revs out fine to 4.5k rpm (thats where I set the limiter for break in) but I do notice a very weak/flat spot when I try to drive it in the driveway, but that may just be a tunning issue. Could it be and issue with the FD and FC setup?

 

Was the ECU reprogrammed for the FD? Because the FC and FD trailing use different triggers.

 

No. It wasnt reprogrammed.

 

if its an ltx then it is four coil sequential operation ( 4 inbuilt igniters inside ecu case ).. FC and FD input trigger angles may be different .. FD being fixed position pickups..


if timing lock on zero shows on the TRAILING 1 timing light pulse with the single FD mark
( with zero trim and zero static, and Tgap split map at 15 for the low rpms )

then you are AOK

if it doesnt,, things get funky... you have to gauge the difference ( which isnt easy ) and use that guestimate on the timing trim value ..
so that the light and T1 pin ( t1 on FD being 20 ATDC ) correlate

naturally,, if the t1 is 20ATDC, split is 15 ,, then L1 is at 5 ATDC.. and thus you have the motor at the point where it should be had you timed the FC engine
( FC timing mark for L1 being 5 ATDC = zero static )

 

Oops...LT8x. I'm a stupid.