Microtech Car flooded, now no power to ECU?
11-29-09, 06:48 PM
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Car flooded, now no power to ECU?
I have checked every wire and connection in my engine bay, changed my fuse block and fuses, RECHARGED my optima yellow top, went under my dash to look for loose connections, I AM STUCK!
I started my car the other night, walked inside to let it warm up, came back out and the car had stalled. I turned off my fuel pump because it had been running for about 10mins without the car being on. I came back to try and start the car, and it was flooded. I deflooded the car using the unplug the egi trick, and the car would constantly backfire while trying to start. So I gave it an hour to sit, came back out to try and start it and.....BACKFIRE....*blip* (battery died, no power to anything).
So i pushed the car in the garage and let it sit for 2days before i could get to it.I I found that my 80amp main fuse was blown,so i got a 100amp fuse block from a friend and changed all of the other fuses in the car. INCLUDING the microtech fuse(10a i believe). The battery is now at 100/100 on the charger, and keeps charge. The car will crank and turn over, and it sounds STRONG. The car however will not start due to my ecu not coming on. My fuel pump is running along with EVERYTHING else. Anyone have ANY advice why to my ecu has no power? as in, no lights coming on whatsoever on the ecu.
The ecu is a microtech lt8s ecu
here is my mods list. THE CAR RAN PERFECT BEFORE THIS HAPPENED!
Street ported S4 motor w/ S5 internals and S5 housings, 3" turbo back exhaust,
Turbonetics 60-1, HKS log manifold, HKS Standard Wastegate, CorkSport Oil Cooler Lines, Turbonetics blow off valve, HKS filter, NPR FMIC, Greddy compression tube, Full Autometer guages, 720cc primary / 1600cc secondary injectors, Walbro fuel pump,Aeromotive FPR,Magnacore 10mm wires,MMR Solid Drivetrain mounts, Turbonetics MBC, BDC throttle body, pivot turbo timer,3 MSD 6A ignition boxes, all emissions systems/ac/ps removed.
CAR NEVER HAD A PROBLEM BEFORE THIS. IT WAS DAILY DRIVEN, AND HAD A CONSTANT 14LBS OF BOOST IF I GOT ON IT. Maybe I just shorted the ecu???
I started my car the other night, walked inside to let it warm up, came back out and the car had stalled. I turned off my fuel pump because it had been running for about 10mins without the car being on. I came back to try and start the car, and it was flooded. I deflooded the car using the unplug the egi trick, and the car would constantly backfire while trying to start. So I gave it an hour to sit, came back out to try and start it and.....BACKFIRE....*blip* (battery died, no power to anything).
So i pushed the car in the garage and let it sit for 2days before i could get to it.I I found that my 80amp main fuse was blown,so i got a 100amp fuse block from a friend and changed all of the other fuses in the car. INCLUDING the microtech fuse(10a i believe). The battery is now at 100/100 on the charger, and keeps charge. The car will crank and turn over, and it sounds STRONG. The car however will not start due to my ecu not coming on. My fuel pump is running along with EVERYTHING else. Anyone have ANY advice why to my ecu has no power? as in, no lights coming on whatsoever on the ecu.
The ecu is a microtech lt8s ecu
here is my mods list. THE CAR RAN PERFECT BEFORE THIS HAPPENED!
Street ported S4 motor w/ S5 internals and S5 housings, 3" turbo back exhaust,
Turbonetics 60-1, HKS log manifold, HKS Standard Wastegate, CorkSport Oil Cooler Lines, Turbonetics blow off valve, HKS filter, NPR FMIC, Greddy compression tube, Full Autometer guages, 720cc primary / 1600cc secondary injectors, Walbro fuel pump,Aeromotive FPR,Magnacore 10mm wires,MMR Solid Drivetrain mounts, Turbonetics MBC, BDC throttle body, pivot turbo timer,3 MSD 6A ignition boxes, all emissions systems/ac/ps removed.
CAR NEVER HAD A PROBLEM BEFORE THIS. IT WAS DAILY DRIVEN, AND HAD A CONSTANT 14LBS OF BOOST IF I GOT ON IT. Maybe I just shorted the ecu???
11-30-09, 04:54 AM
#2
Ok microtech is very simple.
Disconnect the ECU.
Get a Multimeter and check that you have 12v+ all the time on the red wire.
Check that you have 12v+ on ignition(reds) on the Pink wire
Check that the 2 brown wires are continious to earth. Do this from the main plug that goes to the ecu.
If all above 3 checkout and ecu is not switching on. You have fried it.
Disconnect the ECU.
Get a Multimeter and check that you have 12v+ all the time on the red wire.
Check that you have 12v+ on ignition(reds) on the Pink wire
Check that the 2 brown wires are continious to earth. Do this from the main plug that goes to the ecu.
If all above 3 checkout and ecu is not switching on. You have fried it.
11-30-09, 05:13 AM
#3
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My 7 burnt out the immobilizer a couple weeks ago. If u have one that cuts ignition and no other systems on the ignition circuit are working then that may be your problem.
Electrical problems are easy to diagnose -you just follow the power till you find the break. Also don't be scared to open up your ecu to check the circuit boards for opens.
Electrical problems are easy to diagnose -you just follow the power till you find the break. Also don't be scared to open up your ecu to check the circuit boards for opens.
12-01-09, 06:27 PM
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okay i have the multimeter. it's a crafstman 82141. http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/03...sm=0.9,0.5,0,0
i have no idea what to do with this thing, I've NEVER used one before. Any advice?
i have no idea what to do with this thing, I've NEVER used one before. Any advice?
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