o sorry i have an lt8, do you know if its the same with them?

 

lt8 only one out put.

 

so I tried it again today and still not working. Got a nice heavy duty 30amp 12volt relay and hooked it up as per the diagram. With the white/black wire and the map_on set to come on at 1psi, as soon as I turned the car on it started spraying. Ok so it must be the white wire. Connected it to the white wire and this time when I turned on the car it didn't start spraying "cool". So I reved it in neutral and it hit 5psi but absolutely no water came out. I set it back to the boost switch and it seems like it's working fine. I don't understand what's going on, lol.

 

does it matter if I'm using 5 pin relays and only hooking up 4 wires? It shouldn't right?

 

no, on the 5-pins there's 1 com wire (power in), and then a NC and NO wire. Did you have it on the Normally Open pin?

Also, it could be that at 1 psi setting, it switches on between 0 and 1 psi, maybe try setting it to 2 or 3 psi?

 

I'll try setting it to 2 or 3 psi. and see what that does. Who knew setting up a relay was this troublesome lol.

 

You guys that are using water/meth and relying on it in your tune might want to consider a safety device that reverts to the WG spring when your injection system is not pressurized. An LED really doesn't tell you much.

 

it just tells me when I'm spraying which is better than just "figuring" it's doing what it's supposed to. A fail safe would be a great thing for sure but I'm thinking the best fail safe is simplicity and most of the fail safe systems out there are polar opposite.

 

An LED does not tell you when you are spraying, it tells you when you are supposed to be spraying. It will not tell you when you run out of meth, have a busted line, bad pump, ect, all of which will happen eventually if you run a meth system for years. I use a pressure sensor just before my nozzle that will not allow you to run off the boost controller unless there is pressure in the meth line. If there is pressure in the system it closes a solenoid that allows the boost controller to work. It's pretty simple and cost much less than a new engine. About $75 in parts.

 

interesting, you got any info on the parts used? I've got a low level light as well so I'll know when I'm out but a failsafe is always a good idea if simple enough not to go bad itself.

 

A medium pressure Hobbs switch
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hobbs...Q5fAccessories

And a Normally open solenoid
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Norma...item4ceb3c4b76

Those are the only two things you need. T the solenoid in the line that goes from the top of the WG to the output of the boost controller so that it keeps that line open to atmospheric pressure till it gets the 12v signal that the Hobbs Switch sends it when there is pressure in the meth system. You need to make sure that your meth comes online before your WG spring or it will never work.

 

Wouldnt waste time with the above. More things to go wrong.

if you do it right you wont have any problems. i will test a lt10s today and let you know whats the deal.

 

Not to mention it still wont tell you if the nozzle is clogged. There is always something that can go wrong, which makes it important to do quality work from the beginning and periodically check things over to make sure no rats have chewed on your wires and what not.

As for hooking up the relay. It seems it would be much easier to check the outputs on the microtech with a multimeter. I imagine they are 12v switched, so set the multimeter to DC voltage go for a ride, and see what settings/boost levels gives you 12v. If you have 12v before even driving off then you need to check out your settings and make an adjustment. Once you have that all figured out, then you add the relay and start testing the system.

I'm not familiar with the microtech outputs, but depending if they switch 12v + or 12v - will change things a little bit. Both in testing and in hooking everything up.

 

So you have lost 2 engines due to failures that my system would have saved and you are telling him not to bother?...lol...interesting.

BTW, I have had this system on my car for about 4 years and it has yet to have a problem. I take my nozzles out every year and clean them.

 

Interesting little setup there. Seems simple enough, only problem is I'll have to order more stainless steel fittings and line to hook this up (expensive) but I guess if it's a pretty good dependable system than it's much cheaper than a new engine. As soon as I get tuning under control and microtech doing what I need it to with this relay as well as a few extra bucks for the fittings and parts I may just hook this up. Thanks for the info.

 

Much appreciated man, one of these days I'm going to have to just paypal you some cash for all the help you give me. My only problem with our water injection pumps is that one day they WILL go bad. This is one of the reasons one of these days I may just go to a pumpless setup so I won't have to worry about this but until then who knows, maybe a failsafe isn't such a bad idea.

 

I was thinking about doing this today. I'll probably get back out there tomorrow and try this out.

 

Ill say it again.

DO IT PROPERLY YOU DONT HAVE ANY PROBLEMS.

keep the system as simple as possible. Dont complicate things further.

None of the above systems would have saved my engine as intial design is wrong. ITs that simply.

 

When your water stopped working it would never have boosted over your wastegate spring. Simple as that.

 

Do you know what my wastegate spring is mate?

And even on my lowest boost setting my engine would crap it self.

Like i said. WOULD NOT WORK AND JUST COMPLICATE THINGS MORE.....

 

Not to mention mechanical delay. By the time power is cut to your EBC, how long would it take to reduce boost? I'd say quite a few cycles, more than enough time for knock.

 

Soooo. Any consensus as to how to make it work w/ an LT8S?

 

not sure it even works on an lt10, lol. I stil have the vacuum switch plugged in.

 

You know I still can't get this dang feature to work right. the white microtech wire is a ground, would this change anything on how it's hooked up? Only reason I'd like this is because my stupid boost activated switch is coming on a 4psi. I can change this with an alan wrench but I would much rather a computer tell the pump at exactly what boost level to turn on.

 

Your diagram above is correct for the relay wiring.

Pins 85 and 86 are for the magnetic coil. These need + and - (polarity doesn't matter)

To keep things simple lets make pin 85 positive (connect this to 12v + ignition or + battery)
Since your white output is negative connect it to pin 86. (This completes the circuit for the coil. Now when the microtech switches the white wire to ground the relay will activate)

Once the relay activates, your pin 30 and 87 will have continuity between them. So whatever is connected to pin 30 will flow to pin 87 and vise versa.

TESTING RELAY:
Test your relay by connecting ground and power to 85 and 86,it should click. Put your multimeter on pin 30 and 87. If your multimeter has audible tone alert for continuity then use that. Verify continuity. (if everything passed then your relay is fine)

TESTING MICROTECH SWITCH
Now go for a ride with your multimeter. Set it on 12v and connect one lead to the white wire and one lead to 12v +. Insure that the white wire is switching to ground at whatever boost level you have programmed. (if everything passes then your microtech is switching properly)

If both of the above tests pass, and you connect it like said, then it WILL work.