2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

As title suggest I want to know where to buy the additional resistors etc that are needed to modify my V3 board. Is Radio Shack just as good a place as any or should I be going to an electronics store.

Is there a complete list of materials somewhere that someone has put together.

Here is what I know is needed so far.

three 4.7k resistors, is there a specific style/size/brand (For the LEDs marked
D14, D15 and D16)

one 30k to 50k resistor (style,size,brand) this is to use the stock air temp sensor

Is there a proven procedure to controll the BAC valve on V3 board? Are the components recommended in the sticky correct? Is controlling this valve worth the work honestly?

Now what I understand is that I can control both leading and trailing with the modded CAS and the onboard VR circuit. I have a spare CAS so I don`t mind removing the two teeth. Is there any reason NOT to do it this way

Well I`m on the step 66 of assembly. Thanks in advance! :

muythaibxr

most of what you need to control a BAC can be found at radioshack if you want... it just depends on what you want to use. If you use a TIP120 transistor instead of the ztx 688/689 for the BAC, you can get pretty much all resistors and such at radio shack.

You are going to need to get a daughtercard though if you want to use the stock CAS for example, or build an lm1815 circuit in the proto area.... a lot of the parts for that can be found at digi-key... or you can get a daughtercard from glen's garage.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Below is what you have in the sticky concerning single or dual VR sensor conditioner.

"For the V3 board, you actually already have a single vr sensor conditioner, so you have 2 choices: cut two opposing teeth out of the CAS, and use only the single built-in vr sensor conditioner, or build a second vr sensor conditioner (lm1815 works)... you can do that in the v3 board's proto area, or you can just get error*'s daughterboard, and only build/use one of the lm1815 circuits on there."

The way I understood it was that If I cut two teeth opposing from the CAS I could control both leading and trailing with the single onboard VR circuit. (No daughterboard needed) Is there a benefit in one method over the other?

FYI. My engine is an 86NA with an S5 UIM (with VDI) going on it very shortly.
I thought I read somewhere that one of the daughter boards would provide control for opening VDI, Aux. Ports etc. besides giving me the second VR circuit.

pmrobert

I can confirm that the tooth-deleted CAS works just fine on a running rotary, no second VR decoder needed. Both leading and trailing timing were stable as far as my scope and timing light could tell with very little jitter. muy may have a reason or two as to why the stock 24+2 + second VR circuit is better, I'll defer to him. He is the architect of the trailing code addition to MS so would know best.

-Mike

muythaibxr

neither is better than the other from a code standpoint... I've used both to around 9000 rpms with no problems.

if you cut two teeth out of the CAS, you can use the proto area to build the transistor circuits for VDI and Aux ports.

57bronco

I was looking at glens garage web sight and he has the daughter board with or without a EGT amplifier. Which will I need for the MS I v3 and what else will I need.
thanks

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Muythaibxr,

Well thanks to yours and everyones help I`m done building the basic MS1 v3. I powered it up with Megatune and the stim and all the controls react to adjustments and all LEDs (MS and Stim) do their thing as well. I must admit I`m rather proud of myself for completing it this far however I owe all who helped me here a HUGE thanks cause I sure as **** could not have done it alone!

I like the idea for the circuit to control VDI/Aux Ports being put into the proto area but I also like the additional control circuits that come with the daughter card from GlensGarage. I will need to decide which way I want to go so thats why I`m still throwing ALL the questions.

As 57bronco posted, which daughter card is prefered? I`m not really clear as to what EGT (exhaust gas temp) would be used for. What else would be needed to go with the daughter card(s) and is there directions with that card for installations.

If I were to build my own control circuit for VDI etc in the proto area what would I need to get, (where can I find list of materials), and is there a write-up somewhere on how to build it and set it up?

I have decided after readin some on making my MS1 "PlugnPlay" with the original wiring harness. I`ll round up an extra S4 N/A ECU and scavenge the connector for that part of the project. I do have an extra S5 N/A ECU but if I remember right the connector is differant.

Hey, almost forgot, is there a prefered "k" resistor for using the stock air temp sensor or does any between 30k and 50k all work the same. (seems like pretty big range, number wise anyway). Is there a specific watt or anything else for it?

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, where did everyone go?:
Would like to know what to purchase and how to build it to give me a project for this weekend.

muythaibxr

EGT is another tool that can be used for tuning... you can use it on cruise for example to tune to the leanest mixture with the most advance that still has acceptable temperatures.

for each, a 1k resistor, a pn2222a transistor, and a 1n4001 diode.


I don't believe so, anything in that range will work... it doesn't matter what wattage either, although I've always used a 1/4th watt metal film resistor here.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Muythaibxr,

I`ve done the mods to my MS v3 , I had already ordered from digikey before your reply. It looks like everything you stated I need is what I got except that I used carbon film resistors instead of metal film. Hope thats not a problem.
I replaced Q4 with a ZTX689 transistor,
R18 with a 1/4 watt 510 ohm carbon film resistor,
R4 with a 1/4 watt 39k ohm carbon film resistor,
and added the three 4.7k ohm carbon film resistors from the LED negative to the 5v source as shown in the photo in the FAQ.
The stim makes everything work, I saw a much larger temp reading on the IAT with the stim so that must be the higher ohm resistor.

Where do I find instructions (like the ones in Megamanual I used to build my MS) that will help me build the circuits to activate the VDI and Aux Ports. Is there instructions like that? I`m learning as I go along so please bear with me. I`ve gotten this far with a lot of assistance for yourself and others here. Please don`t get fed up with me just yet. I`m learning a ton and enjoying myself as well.

TIA

muythaibxr

you wanted to replace R19 not R18 if that's the one you were using to to idle speed control.

For R4, you'll want to measure the EXACT resistance with an ohm-meter or DMM and note it for use with easytherm later.

There are no instructions for the VDI/aux port circuits, but they're pretty standard circuits. I'll see if I can dig up some diagrams sometime tomorrow (going to sleep for the night).

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Per the FAQ this is what I followed

from muyhthaibxr
"I don`t think anyone has done any testing on a v3 board to make it control a BAC valve, but I believe you'd want to change out Q4 with the ztx688 or ztx689, and change out R18 with a 1/2 watt 510 ohm resistor."
I actually used a 1/4 watt resistor instead of the 1/2 watt withh this cause a problem?

muythaibxr

typo... I'll fix it

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Well that blows. Guess I`ll be ordering a replacement for that R18 resistor I removed.

muythaibxr

you should be able to find that one at radio shack... 270 ohm 1/4th watt.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

The resistors will be in the correct places later today.

Can this measurment be taken with resistor installed on the board?

Still looking forward to those diagrams as well as a basic explanation for assembly

Scott

muythaibxr

It needs to be similar to this, only with the diode from +12v to pin 3 on the transistor instead of across the relay, and the relay/solonoid hooked to pin three as well

http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/ex...fan-driver.jpg

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

How do I apply that diagram to my Ver. 3.0 board?

And what about measuring the value of that resistor (R4) ? Can it be done with the component on the board?

muythaibxr

I'm not sure if measuring R4 while it's in the MS will work or not. I think it should work though as long as there aren't any voltage splitters getting created by the DMM as it tests the resistor.

Do you know how to read circuit diagrams?

That circuit is already on the error* daughterboard, your you can build it in the proto area...

If you don't know how to read a circuit diagram, I suggest doing a little reading up.... I'm sure you can find something on google.... or maybe another member here knows of a good place to find circuit diagrams online.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Muy thanks for keeping at it with me (and most of all for having patients). I`m a heating and cooling service technician and sales rep for a Metro Detroit contractor (I`ve got 25+ years in the business). I read electrical schematics for everything from window a/cs to 25 ton machines to troubleshoot problems as part of my daily job. Circuits diagrams are similar and I recognize most of the components in the diagram BUT I`m for sure in waters that I`m unfamiliar with. I know I can do this, just having to take my time, read a lot on the subject and ask questions (a lot of questions)
I`ve always been a hands on kind of student. I have confidence that I`ll reach my goal of a functioning MS, including operating VDI and Aux ports, running my `86GXL.
Yes I know the `86 did not come with VDI. I`m installing an S5 dynamic chamber and UIM onto the S4 LIM. Aux port sleeves have pineapple racing inserts already in place.