i have a gsl-se that i would like to have megasquirted but i have not been able to find someone that has the process spelled out and me being a broke a$$ collage student i really cant afford to experiment so i would appreciate it very much if some one could tell me my options in boards (like v3,v2) and cost and how much a wideband o2 hookup would be and all that i am preatty good with fixing stuff so i would be able to build preatty much anything that needs to be built i would just really appreciate the help to become a proud megarxswquirter thanks everyone

 

You're in luck... A GSL-SE is one of the simplest installs of all time. No need for staged injection, ignition control, CAS signal conditioning. Leave the stock dizzy ignition alone, and you can focus on the basics of fuel control first. Here's what I'd suggest:

Buy the V2.2 kit from here:
http://www.glensgarage.com/catalog/p...products_id=29

Build up your own harness to connect to the stock sensors, or modify a stock ecu and use the existing harness. Use EasyTherm to update the embedded code to suit the Mazda sensors. Wire it up, and go tuning. You could run the newer -extra code that you'll hear people talking about, but your setup would also run fine on the std V3.0 code as well. The latter might be the simpler way to go, as the tuning options are more limited, and easier to understand for the first-timer.

 

v2.2 would be the best you would not recomend the v3 board?? just beaceuse of the ??? i am really new and i have read about the megasquirt alot but still verymuch in the dark about it. i ahve an extra ecu for this considering i have three se's but one is a parts car. what would i have to do to hook up a wideband o2 and is tuning hard to do i dont want to spend 6months with a almost undriveable car but i am willing to experiment a little. where would i find the pin out on the stock ecu to pin out on the mega squirt also is there a good wiring page for the mega squirt i looked at the ms website but did not find one sorry for the dumbass questions but i have been reading and i havent had much luck. also does anyone know what the preformance gains that i would gain going to ms and fuel ecno. that kind of stuff thanks for the help again.

 

There are two advantages to the V2.2 board: 1.) It's much easier to assemble for a beginner/novice, as the component spacing is much more generous. 2.) It's cheaper, and you said you were on a budget. The V3 board will allow you to convert to FC ignition more easily than a V2.2 board, if that's in your future. In all honesty, the benefits of running an FC ignition setup are slim to none vs a properly functioning distributor setup. I'd strongly suggest a fuel-only approach to simplify your installation.

Man that's hard to read. An occasional capital, period, and paragraph break would help!

If you work slowly, preparing your MS up front, and testing it well on the bench, you'll have few problems. Build your own plug-n-play with an old ecu, which would be quite easy given you have the parts, and you could easily swap back and forth between MS and stock. If the up-front work is done properly, the install could be done easily on a weekend, or even weeknight! It's a function of the level of preparation, and the skill of the installer...

MS wiring diagrams are on the ms site. Wiring diagrams for the stock ecu can be found in the pdf-format Mazda manuals available here:
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html

 

I agree with renns on all but one point.

The strength of the spark produced by a 2nd gen ignition system is far better than that produced by the distributor. So there is at least one advantage.

On an NA system, you're unlikely to notice anything, but on a turbo system once you get the 2nd gen system functioning properly, you can get full control of the timing of leading and trailing, as well as getting the stronger spark (I've seen distributor users blow out their spark using a distributor based system on a turbo engine).

Fuel only _IS_ a lot easier though, and if you already have the distributor working, I suggest tuning fuel only with that, then if you want you can add ignition later.

 

Sure, boosted applications are another issue, but he's not mentioned that anywhere, so I'll stand by my comments. :-)

 

yeah, just wanted to make sure it was clear for anyone reading this who might be running in a turbo application.

More or less wanted to qualify your statement.

 

So if i wanted to goto turbo then i should buy the v3 board. But for now i could just buy the v2.2

and just do fuel. Later the v3 board can be added to the v2.2 board correct?? Still i am confused

about the addition of a wideband o2 sensor. Would i need one or not and what kind of numbers

am i looking at for power increase if tuned properly. Also the nearest dyno is like three hours

away and very expensive i was wondering if i would need to go to a dyno to have it tuned. thanks

for all the help and sorry for not being able to read my chicken scratch. I hope i did better that

time

 

does anyone know the numbers you get for increase power and fuel econo. when switching over to megasquirt. on an na car

 

If the engine was running properly prior to the swap, then I doubt you'll see any significant improvement. In fact, if you don't tune the MS well, you may in fact see a decrease! The same goes for any aftermarket EMS.

 

Mazda tunes these things pig rich. You'll probably see at least a little improvement in both power and economy by leaning things out.

However, as renns says, it really does depend on you.

 

thanks guys i just wanted some feed back because i did not know if someone has found that the stock map is not very good or something. i know they are really rich and if you try to lean them out they start to run like crap in the high rpm's (w/the stock ecu that is)
also do you guys know if you are able to take the MAS out when you switch over to megasquirt or do you have to leave that hunk of junk in there still. appreciate all the help.

 

still wondering about the mas airflow sensor or not ???

 

take it out... Once you take it out though you have to find a way to turn on your fuel pump.

 

i was just wondering be cause that is a huge restrictor of flow wondering if taking it would help flow but only if it able to get everthing else to work

do you know how it truns it on if it is just used as a relay or is it like a varible thing

 

The fuel pump on my S4 is just an on/off function coming out of the AFM. It just triggers the fuel pump relay.

Kris

 

interesting. hm.... i wonder how one could bypass this.

 

i wonder of you could just put a flapper that did not go through the whole system and have that trigger the fuel pump or just have it hooked to a relay so when ever the key is on the pump would be on i dont see why that would be a problem

 

On the S4, all you have to do to make the fuel pump work is hook the MS Fuel Pump output to the brown wire coming from the Circuit Opening Relay (which is under the dash above the brake pedal). All of this is on the FSM page 36-37.

There is an alternative. Run a single wire from the MS Fuel Pump Output to the Fuel Pump Circuit Terminal (the brown wire on a 2-wire connector (EM-30) up near the MAP sensor)(page 31 in FSM).

Both of these methods will bypass the AFM, and allow the MS to control the fuel pump.

 

did you notice a difference by taking out the afm