Megasquirt trouble with 3.0.3s
04-22-10, 04:43 PM
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trouble with 3.0.3s
I downloaded all the stuff for 3.0.3s, and it all loaded up on the squirt fine, downloaded tunerstudio and the java update.
followed the readme file for initial project opening.. and so on. after cycling the squirt, and adding the files and tunerstudio to my laptop, I have a config error.
switched the megasquirt back to desktop pc, and has the config error on there now too. I may have messed up... but im not sure.
followed the readme file for initial project opening.. and so on. after cycling the squirt, and adding the files and tunerstudio to my laptop, I have a config error.
switched the megasquirt back to desktop pc, and has the config error on there now too. I may have messed up... but im not sure.
04-22-10, 04:45 PM
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as far as I know, I opened megatune, and tunerstudio, looked at my old setting, and made everything match on the new firmware. But the error appears to not like the ignition settings or something.
04-22-10, 09:02 PM
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Here it is. Im pretty sure thats exactly how I had the older version set up. The only thing that made sense to me was the EDIS thing was set wrong.
04-23-10, 02:20 AM
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Also not real sure about this "cam setting" its a little different than previous versions Im familiar
I changed the offset angle to zero and left the toothed wheel setting and that cleared up the config error, but I dont think it will work on the actual car like this.
I changed the offset angle to zero and left the toothed wheel setting and that cleared up the config error, but I dont think it will work on the actual car like this.
04-23-10, 12:34 PM
#6
MegaSquirt Mod
It should work on the actual car like that (those are the settings I use with the offset at 0).
Your old settings had the offset at 60 degrees, which would mean that you stabbed the CAS wrong or are triggering off the wrong edge of the signal for your board setup.
You should be able to have 0 for the offset setting with your current wheel decoder settings and have it work properly.
Ken
Your old settings had the offset at 60 degrees, which would mean that you stabbed the CAS wrong or are triggering off the wrong edge of the signal for your board setup.
You should be able to have 0 for the offset setting with your current wheel decoder settings and have it work properly.
Ken
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04-23-10, 07:04 PM
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Hey ken,
I went out with the ms today and tried to run the car. It wouldnt read rpms. Everything else seemed to read correctly that didnt involve the rpm. Went back through my settings, and looked it all over. I played with a few things. Nothing changed.
Im going to put up a zip, could you take a look at it for me?
The only other thing is maybe my cas wires got messed up... I doubt it. I checked the connections over, and it all look satisfactory. I really wanna get running on 3.0.3 before I rewire the harness, so I know I have a working setup. Its possible I could have more incorrect Ignition settings...
I went out with the ms today and tried to run the car. It wouldnt read rpms. Everything else seemed to read correctly that didnt involve the rpm. Went back through my settings, and looked it all over. I played with a few things. Nothing changed.
Im going to put up a zip, could you take a look at it for me?
The only other thing is maybe my cas wires got messed up... I doubt it. I checked the connections over, and it all look satisfactory. I really wanna get running on 3.0.3 before I rewire the harness, so I know I have a working setup. Its possible I could have more incorrect Ignition settings...
04-24-10, 03:57 AM
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Im into the rewire now. I said screw it. Um quick question... the pin30 for FIdle can control a fan circuit that has a relay and diode in line right? outputs pm2 for FIdle.
04-25-10, 02:38 PM
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MegaSquirt Mod
Ahh, did you remember to switch the second trigger input pin on the ECU to JS10? We switched that pin with 2.0.
Also, you'll want to put a .01uF cap across G+ and G- where they go into your second trigger conditioner board, and you'll want to ground pin 14 on the lm1815.
Ken
Also, you'll want to put a .01uF cap across G+ and G- where they go into your second trigger conditioner board, and you'll want to ground pin 14 on the lm1815.
Ken
04-25-10, 08:38 PM
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yikes! I didnt know any of that. I have been gone a while. Took a break from the rx7 thing. It was really starting to overwhelm me back then. Yeah so I missed all that. That makes sense now why it would not read the rpm. Thanks Ken. That should obviously fix it. I was hoping for an obvious fix like that.
Trying to run it like I did the other day would not have caused any damage would it? Wired to run 1.x.x?
Trying to run it like I did the other day would not have caused any damage would it? Wired to run 1.x.x?
04-25-10, 09:24 PM
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looking at the proto area now, ouch. i think I need to pull all of that and start over. its a mess and Im scared to try and figure out what that mess is.
is there a current known correct schemo for that circuit? I did a search and found some contradicting things
is there a current known correct schemo for that circuit? I did a search and found some contradicting things
04-25-10, 10:37 PM
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nevermind... I found aaroncakes how-to. And went off of his stuff. I am also loosely using his write up for doing the diy harness. Loosely. There is a lot that I had different on my setup.
04-26-10, 09:10 AM
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04-26-10, 10:36 AM
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aight cool. I did the mods last night and will finish up with the harness in a few days, when it stops raining. So I cant try it just yet. Thanks again Ken. That should be your new name.
04-27-10, 09:52 PM
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Ok. got the car running today after finishing the harness work. I got it right the first time too! that never happens. Seemed to do well with the 3.0.3 firmware. Still have to add my NGK wideband tonight though.
Ugh... I have been reviewing stuff on spark advance. What a nightmare. Spent a lot of time in the single turbo forum, and walked away with two things:
1. Try 0 split timing in vacuum...
and
2. With a 6port, with no aux sleeves and TB mods, I should assume it is like a streetport, and add more advance than a stock motor.
With #2 in mind, I think the stock NA idle timing was -5*. And It seems to like about 0* to idle around 800rpms. But I saw a few times, that some people had as much as 22* at idle.
Can anyone with experiance comment?
Ugh... I have been reviewing stuff on spark advance. What a nightmare. Spent a lot of time in the single turbo forum, and walked away with two things:
1. Try 0 split timing in vacuum...
and
2. With a 6port, with no aux sleeves and TB mods, I should assume it is like a streetport, and add more advance than a stock motor.
With #2 in mind, I think the stock NA idle timing was -5*. And It seems to like about 0* to idle around 800rpms. But I saw a few times, that some people had as much as 22* at idle.
Can anyone with experiance comment?
04-29-10, 01:49 AM
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Ken, I have a question for you.
You stated that you were using the idle advance feature. Im interested in how you are using it. I have found that my idle does like about -5* advance with 0 split. So if you are using idle advance with settings at -5*, which I think is what you said you run, in the advance map, are your values for your idle bins set to -5*? I read that -5* was idle for NAs but all of the maps Ive seen are around 14-16* in that area. What gives?
And why is there a table for the idle advance feature?
I guess what Im getting at is my car likes -5* at idle, but everything I have seen shows higher values coming out of idle, and that would be a rather abrupt change in timing. I have a 6port with no sleeves so the 5th and 6th ports are always open, so this would be like an extended port, and what I have read is the more extreme the port work, you need to add more timing.
You stated that you were using the idle advance feature. Im interested in how you are using it. I have found that my idle does like about -5* advance with 0 split. So if you are using idle advance with settings at -5*, which I think is what you said you run, in the advance map, are your values for your idle bins set to -5*? I read that -5* was idle for NAs but all of the maps Ive seen are around 14-16* in that area. What gives?
And why is there a table for the idle advance feature?
I guess what Im getting at is my car likes -5* at idle, but everything I have seen shows higher values coming out of idle, and that would be a rather abrupt change in timing. I have a 6port with no sleeves so the 5th and 6th ports are always open, so this would be like an extended port, and what I have read is the more extreme the port work, you need to add more timing.
04-29-10, 10:54 AM
#20
MegaSquirt Mod
I use idle advance to set the timing to between -5 and 0 depending on load on the engine.
In the advance table I think I have 12-14 degrees in the same area since freerevving and driving around, the engine seems to like that.
Ken
In the advance table I think I have 12-14 degrees in the same area since freerevving and driving around, the engine seems to like that.
Ken
04-29-10, 05:13 PM
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Im using that now. Works pretty well. Um I think I am having trouble with my staged injection now on 303. I had it set for 3000rpm or 90 Kpa. And Im running lean no matter what VE I set in that area. So I lowered it to 2500rpm. Now same problem at 2500rpm.
04-29-10, 07:54 PM
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I check for power at the plugs, thats good. I saw in Jobros post about the injector characteristic Bank2. I tried all kinds of stuff. Couldnt find any info about the differences with 303 from the other versions, but I def have some settings that Im not sure about. And the staged injection one is holding me back.
04-29-10, 08:39 PM
#23
MegaSquirt Mod
Are you sure that the wiring from channel to the injectors is right?
I would recommend using the table-based staging... I've been able to get a smooth stage with that in just about every situation.
Ken
I would recommend using the table-based staging... I've been able to get a smooth stage with that in just about every situation.
Ken
04-29-10, 10:39 PM
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What are you injector characteristics for bank one and two? and staging primary reduction delay and secondary enrichment?
its possible I could have the two channels backwards. I used the DIY harness and put inj2 on the secondaries. I will have to figure out how to check which pins they go to.
I have a required fuel of 9.3 and my idle VE at 1000rpms and about 45Kpa is 51. I doubt that are my 1680cc injectors keeping my idle at a pw of approx 3.2ms
its possible I could have the two channels backwards. I used the DIY harness and put inj2 on the secondaries. I will have to figure out how to check which pins they go to.
I have a required fuel of 9.3 and my idle VE at 1000rpms and about 45Kpa is 51. I doubt that are my 1680cc injectors keeping my idle at a pw of approx 3.2ms
04-29-10, 11:23 PM
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ok I can confirm, that my secondaries run from pins 34 and 35, and primaries run from 32-33.
On the DIY harness, inj2 being dark blue, and inj1 being green. Although in aaroncakes writeup it states the opposite. inj1 being blue and inj2 being green.
so as long as the pins are correct, then Im right. I had to do the visual test by pulling off the tape and wire loom. When I did the continuity test, it freaked me out. I stuck a probe in the front secondary connector since its the easiest to get to. and then a probe in pins 32-35. I got continuity with the injector signal wire to secondary in 32, 33, and 35 but not in 34. So I said thats not right. And did the visual.
On the DIY harness, inj2 being dark blue, and inj1 being green. Although in aaroncakes writeup it states the opposite. inj1 being blue and inj2 being green.
so as long as the pins are correct, then Im right. I had to do the visual test by pulling off the tape and wire loom. When I did the continuity test, it freaked me out. I stuck a probe in the front secondary connector since its the easiest to get to. and then a probe in pins 32-35. I got continuity with the injector signal wire to secondary in 32, 33, and 35 but not in 34. So I said thats not right. And did the visual.