13Beast REW

Yea I know. I did the same way I did it back when I had the FD idle for that short period of time. Only reason I'm doing it over is I had no idea what version on msns-e I had on the MS and I needed to download a matching version for MegaTune.

All firmware updates are done now so I'm starting to enter the settings for the FD into MegaTune.

13Beast REW

Ok well now it definately seems like theres a problem. I'm able to connect to the MS fine but I'm not able to get any reading off any sensors. Specifically CLT, IAT, and TPS. I also don't get any activity on the LEDs when the MS is turned on. So its back to troubleshooting.

13Beast REW

Looks like something within the MS circuitry has gone bad somehow. I've check continuity across my adapter cable and everything checks out. Focusing solely on the CLT I measured the current resistance across it first directly from the stock wire harness connector and then through my adapter cable and both read the same.

Based on that some component of the MS is damaged so I'll be taking that apart now to see if I can figure out what and then hopefully locate that part somewhere locally.

renns

Do you have a stim to bench-test the unit? That's a great way to make sure the 'Squirt is working prior to connecting it to the harness in the car.

13Beast REW

Nah, no stim. Ken built this MS and we tested it there initially and everything has been fine up until now.

Megatune will show accurate RPM and MAP readings.

cltADC, mapADC, tpsADC all show 254. Seems like its not grounding or something.

muythaibxr

yeah, I'll check it out when you bring it over.

13Beast REW

Wow it has been a while. Complete oversight...

Squirted FD project: Post #36

I can jump that pin right on the ECU connector.

muythaibxr

so you just figured it out?

13Beast REW

I think so. Haven't tried it in the car yet though. I'll try it out later when my daughter wakes up.

13Beast REW

That was the issue. Everything is showing up as expected now.

muythaibxr

good to hear. glad you figured it out.

13Beast REW

yea thanks. now if I can figure out how I had the fuel setup before.

13Beast REW

So far, the only time I'm able to get anything even remotely resembling an idle (about 5 or so seconds of run time) is when I warm the engine all the way with the stock ECU (> 170F CLT) then run the MS. When the MS does try to idle the engine it appears to be running lean (req_fuel - 8.4) since it dies immediately if I touch the throttle. MS calculated my req_fuel as 7.9 which to me seems a little low. Plus, if I drop req_fuel to 8.2 the engine no longer tries to catch. Raising req_fuel to 8.6 has also stopped the engine from trying to catch.

I've gotten my longest idle (about 6-7 sec) after setting ASE > 130F to 0.

13Beast REW

Wouldn't the calculated VE table for a turbo engine using its peak HP and torque specs be off when off boost? I'm wondering if maybe that calculated VE table is useless for me getting a stable idle.

13Beast REW

Appears to be lean to me.

first file is a datalog.
not much progress.zip - contains the current msq

muythaibxr

if the VE is lean or rich, just adjust req_fuel to suit. eventually you'll find a setting that gives you a good idle. Once you get there, you can use the "reset req_fuel" feature of the VE table editor, which will reset req_fuel to whatever value you choose, and scale the table to suit.

Starting the car the first time is always the hard part.

13Beast REW

I hear ya but thats like telling a blind man to walk down the block until he gets to the green door next to the red pay phone.

Hard to tell if its lean or rich without any sensor feedback. I can only speculate based on how it dies and if there were any backfires while it died (definately lean). Any body have datalogs showing them starting their car then idling? Given they're req_fuel, PW, and MAP figures I could proably piece together a formula to get people in a better ball park than just what the calculated req_fuel and generated VE tables give in term of getting started and idling.

It seems as though a lower compression engine (turbos) would need a slightly different fuel ratio getting started than the NAs. I do bet though that there are enough people running FCs on MS to remove some of the guess work out of this.

13Beast REW

Ken, de we ever mod the MS for IAC? I don't remember and haven't hooked it up. I'm just wondering although I know its not neccessary to idle the engine.

____________

For the record... My most successful run so far was 20.88 secs. I forgot to connect the MAP sensor on that run though. After I connected it following that, I've not been able to get a decent idle. Still at it though.

13Beast REW

Ugg... If its not one thing its another. Apparently there is some kind of interference going on somewhere in my wiring. This has come from no where as everything has been working fine but now all of a sudden, I get .5 volt fluctuations in battery voltage whenever turning the MS on. The volt meter in realtime display just bounces around and status bar says my injectors are on (PW and Duty Cycle show 0) and when connected to the MS I can no longer turn the car over, the starter just clicks like theres some heavy drain on current (when cranking, MS volt meter drops as low as 5 volts).

What gives? Not sure but I do know that there are some gaps in the insulation of the stock FD wire harness from where I had the quick splice connectors so I'll be doctoring all of those up tomorrow. That part that is strange to me though since none of that stuff ever bothers the factory ECU, only the MS.

muythaibxr

I don't remember if we hooked up the IAC stuff either, but if you bring it over here, I can do that.

Not sure why the wiring stuff affects only the MS. I know a good bit of the factory ECU is dedicated to getting rid of random sources of noise though.

If you got the car to run for 20 seconds by leaving the MAP sensor disconnected, then you were probably running too lean before. So once you figure out your latest wiring issue, just increase req_fuel some more.

Ken

13Beast REW

Guess that really does say do it right the first time. LOL. I did have a specific reason for using those quick splice connectors but it wasn't working out like I had planned.

13Beast REW

Well, as it turns out, there really is a wiring issue else where. I know that the engine should turn over regardless of wether or not any ECU is connected but thats not happening. It doesn't matter if the stock ECU is plugged up or unplugged or if the MS is connected or not the starter still doesn't seem to have sufficient power to actually turn over. It just sits there and clicks with only small movements of the flywheel. At one point I figured it might just be a weak battery so I pushed the car out of the garage and tried to jump it but no dice. I also noticed when I have the ignition set to ON I get alot of clicking in the area of my ABS system and my coolant temp sensor always reads full hot.

I haven't gotten around to fixing the stock harness yet for lack of supplies but I'll be picking up some stuff to take care of that on the way home today. As long as the weather holds up I'll be able to atleast, patch up the stock harness and hopefully kill whatever is shorting out.

DO THINGS RIGHT THE FIRST TIME! NO SHORTCUTS OR QUICK SPLICE CONNECTORS!

13Beast REW

Hrrm... something isn't adding up. At no point (other than ground) does the ECU harness intersect the ABS system. The battery doesn't seem to drain while the ignition is off so if there is a short it'd have to be along a circuit thats connected to the ignition switch.

Seems as though something would be shorting against the coolant temp sensor

13Beast REW

I've patched up all of the holes left by the quick splice connectors. I also noticed that the gauge thats acting up is the oil pressure gauge not the coolant temp sensor. It no longer stays all the way up all the time. It goes up all the way when the key is turned from ON to ACC and stays up there about 2-3 seconds then falls to 0. Mind you I'm still having the starter issue. I measured the voltage at the battery and its 12.3 volts, at the starter its 11.99 volts so there is a loss but it doesn't really seem that significant to me.

The starter is still just clicking after repairing the wire harness so I'm a little stumped at the moment.

The Griffin

IIRC the oil pressure gauges are well known for failing on 3rd. gens,might not be a wiring problem.