Yes. Accelerator "pump" is just old terminology...In the days of carbs, it was an actual pump...Now the ECU just opens the injectors more...

 

I love you Aaron Cake!

 

Hey sorry for the double post, i didnt think of it earlier when i was lookin at this, for the S5 injector plugs, or any other ones as long as the actual plastic plug is in ok condition you can either get the little tool to take the little wire connector part out or just bring the pig tail to the mazda dealer and get them to do it they usually do it for free, but they sell the wires with the little metal connectors in various sizes for next to nothing, they just click back in and you have a new pig tail

might be something to consider if people are having trouble finding the right connector
ford dealers have them too

 

Aaron, great writeup!
the only thing I noticed is during fuel pump wiring on a series 5 'vert
on my 'vert the blue lead is to the level sensor assembly
red is to the other sensor

while the black and black/white wires are to the pump
Black being power
black/white being ground.

 

Is this on the pump side of the plug or the harness side of the plug? I checked the wiring diagram when I wrote that and it showed both S4 and S5 are powering the pump on the blue wire (on the pump side of the plug).

 

Blue = Power
Black = Ground
on the inside of the tank

harness side, the connector that connects to the fuel pump bracket connector
black = ground (black inside the tank)
black/white = power (blue inside the tank)

 

Would it be fairly easy to use your write-up while using a relay board as well?

 

As I have never used the relay board, I can't comment. I don't see the point of the relay board, honestly.

 

Hey Aaron, the only thing I don't see covered is for people using low impedance injectors. If they have resistors wired in line then the settings listed in "Injector Characteristics" are fine, but otherwise they need to use different settings. Could be worth mentioning.

It talks about this here, http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/...Manual.htm#wtf under setting the constants.

Craig

 

I have always ran the same settings for both low and high impedance, with no resistors on either.

 

[QUOTE=Aaron Cake;9642616]UPDATE: There is a mistake in my writeup for MS2/Extra 2.x!!

The settings on the programming page for MS2 are correct for 1.x firmware, but not 2.x firmware! If you use them, you will have weird timing.

Instead, use the settings found here: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...zda_fc_rx7.htm

Copied and pasted below (hopefully DIY won't mind):

-Spark mode: Toothed Wheel
-Trigger angle: 0 ???
-Ignition input capture; Rising Edge
-Spark Output: Going Low (Normal)
-Number of coils: Wasted Spark
-Spark A Output Pin: D14
-Dwell type: Standard Dwell
-Maximum dwell duration: 3.0
-Trigger wheel arrangement: Dual wheel
-Trigger wheel teeth: 24
-Tooth #1 angle: 0???
-Wheel speed: Cam wheel
-Second trigger active on: Rising Edge
-And every rotation of: Crank
-Enable rotary mode: Rotary on
-Output mode: FC mode
-RX8 mode: Disabled

QUOTE]

Heelp!! Just found this, and have some questions. I run a 13b REW FD engine with the crank wheel and dual VR sensors, on a V3.57 2.1.o firmware and Zeal RX7 daughtercard. Made it run on your writeup (Trigger angle 60.0, falling edge input, tooth angle 5). Should it be as DIY says ZERO trigger angle and so on? (I thought it was a typing error)
My setup isn't possible to adjust as the CAS. Tried the new settings, and it wasnt happy!!

 

Use whatever settings get the timing mark closest to the pointer when timing is locked, then adjust the trigger angle until they meet up.

 

does anyone have something like a datalog i can use to compare to mine? some of my values seem to fluctuate a lot

 

hey aaron do you think u can help me out on some basic tunning for a half bridge?

 

This may seem like a stupid question, but how does the Megasquirt receive its atmospheric pressure?

In the writeup I see an IAT, CLT, BAC, and TPS wired up. IAT and CLT are giving Intake and Coolant temps. What I can't figure out is where the 'Squirt is getting the barometric pressure % from to know which section of the map to work in. Anyone know how it figures this out?

Thanks in advance...

 

The 'Squirt has an onboard MAP sensor. I believe that pressure from this sensor is absolute. If your current atmospheric pressure is a little low, the 'Squirt will read it a little less then 100KpA without the engine running. And if it's a little high, same difference.

You can add a second sensor for realtime barometric correction. This is detailed in the MSnSE hardware guide.

 

So maybe a better question, how does the ECU know I'm boosting with the setup outlined in your writeup? (or doesn't it?) The map is setup for up to 250%, but we don't go that high on an NA setup, yet I can't figure out how the ECU would know that it's running in that range?

If it doesn't, then are you typically tuning to the assumption that boost spikes, creep, etc are going to be the same on every WOT pull?

 

The ECU reads manifold pressure via the MAP sensor.

 

any plans to update to the 2.25 MegaTune revision. IF so let me know I've got one done that Matt has checked out, make a few changes that suit you and put it up, save you some time I would think.

 

Since I don't have an MSII, I really don't have any working MSII maps other then for the 1.x firmware versions. I know that's horribly out of date but when I did the writeup, MSII was not as widely used as MSI on the rotary. If you have an MSII map on the current firmware I could use for newer screenshots, that would be great. Otherwise, the writeup will have to wait until I have the MS running in my Cosmo which will likely be a year or so (and it will be MSIII).

 

Noted. RX-7 Store should know not to change their catalog URLs, because it breaks all the links and costs them sales.

I will fix this next time I am working on the site.

 

Thanks for the writeup. The MS seems to have a lot more features than the RTek, but is about the same price range. Despite the complexity, I'm thinking the MS will be my next major upgrade. And it will continue to work if (when) I add a turbo.

Something I noticed; on the sensor install page you write about the proper drill size for a 3/8" NPT tap.

However, 59/64" and 9/16" are not very close. On the engineering toolbox I found that the proper drill is 37/64". Something you might want to correct.

 

Aaron,

I'm new here and am doing my MS1 by your write ups. Hey If I buy the Dual VR stimulator from DIYauto Tune is worth it or what? and or it will be a problem?

 

I just use an old CAS. It's free.

 

Aaron do you know where the daughter board wires are hook up in the MS1? I have mine done by your writeup but I don't see where to hook them up.