Okay so I'm gonna do my best to keep this somewhat organized.

Old engine
S4 NA rotors
S6 rotor housings
S5 NA irons
Hybrid turbo
stock pulley
stock flywheel
ID1000 primary + secondaries

New engine
S6 rotors
S4 T2 rotor housings
S5 turbo irons
Hybrid turbo
RB dual sheave pulley
RB lightweight steel flywheel
ID1000 primary + secondaries

The car ran prior to the new engine. it detonated due to 180* intake temps cracking the rear iron on the stock intercooler. oops.

So I spent way too much money getting a new engine rebuilt since I want to take it to track days. I got it all wired in, same as before the replacement

Got it to run for roughly 8 minutes. Here it is for the first few seconds. It ran for 7 minutes and change and then once it was up to temp I tried locking the timing to 0* to check with a timing light and it died and would not start back up.
After I couldnt get it to restart, I assumed it was the tune due to the new engine, break-in etc etc. I tried it the next day. Could not get it to restart. I messed with a bunch of settings all of which made no difference. I get a sputter every once in a while, and sometimes it almost wants to catch but no start. I then reset them to Aaron Cake's provided defaults. I did add a bunch of 2 cycle and gas, is it possible I added too much 2 cycle?

Here it is as of now


So as in the video, I'm not sure if I'm even timed right, I dont know why it only sputters. I have verified I have fuel and spark. I added a bunch of 2 cycle and gas, is it possible I added too much 2 cycle?

The gas is only 1 year old, could that be the culprit?

why when I set the pulley to "TDC" is the CAS 180* off after a rotation and how can I find it? (I've spent hours researching.... all I see is set crank to 9 o clock, stab CAS, I've done this!)

Please help

edit: tomorrow I plan on emptying the fuel tank and putting in all new fresh gas. I will purge out any fuel in the fuel lines and start new.

 

Turns out it was just flooded....runs great

 

Thread of the year.

 

Flood clear mode is your friend. I use it after every attempted but unsuccessful start on a rotary. Usually it results in the engine starting and revving to 2000-3000 rpm and a nice big cloud of smoke.

 

That didnt work. If you watch the second video you see the Throttle gauge flash. flood clear is set to 70% throttle.

It's all good now...this thread can be deleted.

 

just FYI for flood clear you must ahve the throttle ABOVE the threshold BEFORE you start cranking. it looks for 0 rpm and the threshold met to do flood clear

 

oh wow that would explain it then. I wouldnt start pressing the pedal until after I was cranking. very good to know...

Thank you!