Megasquirt MS3X Pro Questions before purchasing it today
#1
Gen 2 Raced Hard NA 13B
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MS3X Pro Questions before purchasing it today
Hi All
I have come to the conclusion that my MS1 V3 board with pull up resistors is having issues on the board and giving me more problems than it may be worth trying to solve.
I need to purchase a new unit and have it air to me so I can get my race car running for a race in Seattle next weekend. Should be no issues on the installation because all the wiring is 100 % and all ready there to make use, plus the sensors are there.
I have been reading up on the MS3X Pro unit.
I have on the car these items.
LC1 wide ban sensor
GM style water and air temp sensors
3 wire TPS which works fine tested OK
Low impedance injectors with resistor pack (SECOND GEN OEM ITEM)
Mazda Leading and Trailing Coils (OEM)
CAS with two missing teeth on 24 tooth wheel.
I know that I need a GM type 3bar vacuum sensor plus a proper plug to go with it (Arron Video).
I have a spare CAS that has not been modified would this be better to use other than the missing teeth type?
With what is listed above should I change any items or get any thing extra to make the MS3X pro unit to work?
Thanks
Kim
I have come to the conclusion that my MS1 V3 board with pull up resistors is having issues on the board and giving me more problems than it may be worth trying to solve.
I need to purchase a new unit and have it air to me so I can get my race car running for a race in Seattle next weekend. Should be no issues on the installation because all the wiring is 100 % and all ready there to make use, plus the sensors are there.
I have been reading up on the MS3X Pro unit.
I have on the car these items.
LC1 wide ban sensor
GM style water and air temp sensors
3 wire TPS which works fine tested OK
Low impedance injectors with resistor pack (SECOND GEN OEM ITEM)
Mazda Leading and Trailing Coils (OEM)
CAS with two missing teeth on 24 tooth wheel.
I know that I need a GM type 3bar vacuum sensor plus a proper plug to go with it (Arron Video).
I have a spare CAS that has not been modified would this be better to use other than the missing teeth type?
With what is listed above should I change any items or get any thing extra to make the MS3X pro unit to work?
Thanks
Kim
#2
Engine, Not Motor
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Have you eliminated the DB37 as the cause of your MS problems with the V3 board? I've seen the pins cause issues. One nearly drove me to kill a hooker in frustration before I figured it out (ultimately it was too late though as the car left my care).
Remember, the MS3-Pro uses a different wiring harness so you won't be able to plug yours in. If you intend to reuse it, then get the Pro with the 12" pigtail harness and make an adapter. Of course this assumes that there isn't an issue with your DB37.
Everything you have listed will work with the MS3-Pro but I would suggest going back to a stock CAS. I don't believe you can run sequential injection without a cam sensor as the ECU won't know TDC of rotor 1. Plus missing tooth wheels are a lot less reliable than a 2nd trigger.
Physically, remember the MS3-Pro takes up a lot more vertical space than the MS3 due to the harnesses.
Remember, the MS3-Pro uses a different wiring harness so you won't be able to plug yours in. If you intend to reuse it, then get the Pro with the 12" pigtail harness and make an adapter. Of course this assumes that there isn't an issue with your DB37.
Everything you have listed will work with the MS3-Pro but I would suggest going back to a stock CAS. I don't believe you can run sequential injection without a cam sensor as the ECU won't know TDC of rotor 1. Plus missing tooth wheels are a lot less reliable than a 2nd trigger.
Physically, remember the MS3-Pro takes up a lot more vertical space than the MS3 due to the harnesses.
#3
Gen 2 Raced Hard NA 13B
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Checking DB37 Connection
Hi Aaron
I replied to the other thread that I have running about my problems with the MS1 V3 Board have a look.
The car is in my shop the DB37 connection should be rock solid the way I mounted it. But I will go out and disassemble the mounting brackets and pull back the DB37 plug and give it a good cleaning, check the pins and reinstall
May be it is that simple we will see. I will post in a bit.
Kim
I replied to the other thread that I have running about my problems with the MS1 V3 Board have a look.
The car is in my shop the DB37 connection should be rock solid the way I mounted it. But I will go out and disassemble the mounting brackets and pull back the DB37 plug and give it a good cleaning, check the pins and reinstall
May be it is that simple we will see. I will post in a bit.
Kim
#4
MegaSquirt Mod
On a rotary, you don't need 720 degrees of crank information to run seq, only 360 deg. There should be no functional difference between a stock CAS and a CAS with 2 teeth cut out on the rotary engine with regards to running sequential.
Ken
Ken
#5
Gen 2 Raced Hard NA 13B
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Purchase Has Been made
I purchased the MS3X with MS3X cable GM 3 bar sensor and plug.
I all so requested to have them contact us in regards to an air shipment rather than ground shipment when ordering.
Does any one have a contact phone number for DIY Tune so we can confirm that they can ship for us using UPS air over night. I did not see any thing on the web site.
Kim
I all so requested to have them contact us in regards to an air shipment rather than ground shipment when ordering.
Does any one have a contact phone number for DIY Tune so we can confirm that they can ship for us using UPS air over night. I did not see any thing on the web site.
Kim
#6
Engine, Not Motor
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In my experience if you email DIYAutoTune they will respond promptly.
I'm a bit confused. Did you purchase the MS3-Pro or the MS3X? If MS3X, you don't need a 3 bar sensor as the MAP sensor is on board.
I'm a bit confused. Did you purchase the MS3-Pro or the MS3X? If MS3X, you don't need a 3 bar sensor as the MAP sensor is on board.
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