Any help will be appreciated!

I installed the ms2 chip and MapDaddy map sensor and everything is installed and wired internally as per the diagrams. The rx7 was previously running good on MS1. I updated the MS2 Extra firmware to 3.1.0 and I am using the latest version of Tuner Studio with VE Analyze Live. I got the car started and running for about 30 minutes on the first try, but it struggles badly to hold an idle. I have been adjusting the fuel, spark and split after it fully warmed up, but it is a consistent problem with the idle. Again, it idled pretty well previously on MS1. Now, it's as if it's trying to run on 1 rotor and wants to die. I am wondering if I am missing something or a number is too high or low in my settings somewhere (don't mind the VE, ign, afr and rotary split tables). Possibly the problem is within my dwell settings for the coils, or my injector settings? I am also unfamiliar with some of the new factors involved with the staged injection settings. (I have been switching on the secondary injectors ONLY after the 95 kpa mark, regardless of rpm. I am running 2 low impedance 750cc RC Engineering injectors for primaries and 2 Bosch 1680 secondaries. My pwm values worked before though... Maybe they are too low now?
I am new to the MS2 software.
1 more thing, when try and hold the rpms around 2500 rpms, the rpm gauge in the car and on tunerstudio keep "dropping" for a moment every few seconds or less. Like a hiccup or a brief cut out. All 3 tachometers register this drop simultaneously (factory, aftermarket, and on the laptop screen).

Any help will be GREATLY appreciated as I am driving this rx7 on a very long trip out west.
Thank you

-Brian

 

Just to add, I ran the car with my friend's MS ECU with the same setup and the results are the same. Lastly, near idle, the rpm gauge keeps glitching and erratically registers 0 rpm for a millisecond randomly - like once a second.
(I followed the lm1815 diagram for ms2 (deleting the resistor and capacitor and running straight to the ground circuit. OUT goes to JS10, S12C goes to JS8, and the pots are fully clockwise till just before they click).
I'm wondering if I have to use the filtering option if it's due to some sort of electrical interference possibly..

 

Filtering is a band-aid. If you're getting sync loss, it's better to correct the wiring than it is to try to filter the noise.

Ken

 

Thanks for the response Ken.
Yeah, I looked deeper into it and I noticed a few things off. The first is that I overlooked the fact that I still had TSEL wired to VROUTINV instead of VROUT. My settings were for inverted. That was the first thing. Second was the way I did my grounding 3 years ago. I see what I have to correct now. I had all the ground wires from the MS together and were tied into a remote area that was part of a (sturdy) grounding daisy chain. The grounds were not directly on the engine block by themselves. I am now wiring it up so that I have 6 dedicated 20 gauge ground wires going to the block, 2 20 gauge wires for the sensors (pins 18 & 19), and the wideband ground now connected in the db-37 harness as opposed to 8" away soldered into a 14 gauge ground wire from the harness. I'll find out tomorrow how it turns out.

 

Car is running great now, and now I simply have to tune it better (and find a way to get my cruising oil temps lower than 210 degrees.)

 

Hi ken, brian and i are having problems with sync loss. We both run the unmodded cas that have been running on ms1 reliably for a long time. What should we be looking for since we upgraded to ms2? Its intermittent and only happens when you are holding the rpms at a certain spot. Its rather scary when boosting and getting sync loss. The sync loss also only happens on the 24 signal.

 

Ken i own an oscilloscope. If i check my signal at the cas and into the pcm and its ok, ill take it that is on the board? Just would be odd to me since i ran this same setup on ms1..........did i miss something in the wiring?

 

Crap!! I forgot the 0.01uf capacitor between G+ and G-!!
Thanks for the link Jose

 

I was still getting sync loss and the tach kept dropping out often until I dropped the coil dwell down to 2.2ms. Originally at 3.6, it still missed at 3.0, and 2.6ms. At 2.2, it seems to be doing pretty good, but I have yet to see when I'm finally putting more miles on it.

 

Yeah, I forget exactly what dwell it does this, but above a certain dwell, the rx7 ignitor goes into a very noisy current-limiting mode, and at that point, the spark doesn't really get any stronger by going to higher dwell, the noise just gets worse.

Ken

 

Hmm, 2.2 is pretty low for the dwell; I've been running 3.5 - 4 without a problem. Have you noticed any misfires, especially at lower loads? I'd check on your plug wires; if you have non-resistive wires then you're much more likely to see noise at low spark energies than with resistive (low-noise) wires

 

So we still have an rpm drop. Very consistent, and ms is wired accordingly. What can cause a drop in the 24 tooth signal only? Its very weird we thought it may have been the capacitor we didnt install but that didnt fix it.

 

I'm running the 10mm Magnecore wires (R-100 I believe?). (^^My friend is running the Racing Beat street wires - brand new set). Yeah, I managed to do the 2000+ mile drive out to Colorado, but I have a consistent rpm dropout (hiccup) at 2050 rpms at light loads. My only other lead is to either add 2 more shielded wires and have all 4 CAS wires shielded instead of the 2 I have currently, or I can replace the factory CAS with a hall sensor and use the 2 existing shielded wires for that.
Also, I figured out AFTER I got over the mountain pass and to my destination, that I was supposed to have the control algorithm set to percent baro instead of speed density. Atmosphere was 70 kpa up there and the car ran horribly needless to say.