Megasquirt Just puchased DIYPNP for the S4 Turbo II. Any advice?
Just puchased DIYPNP for the S4 Turbo II. Any advice?
Just got the kit last week and have gotten thru the first part of the build, which was relatively easy. I'm moving on to pull-ups, etc. I wanted to know if there were any type of "mods" i should consider (for example, 4.7k resistors for WLED,ALED,IGN1, & IGN2). Just for reference, I'm not an electronic engineer by any means- a real newbie to this so, if you could please speak in LAYMAN'S terms, LOL! All help is appreciated.
~Mike
~Mike
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
From: Lavonia, GA
Just got the kit last week and have gotten thru the first part of the build, which was relatively easy. I'm moving on to pull-ups, etc. I wanted to know if there were any type of "mods" i should consider (for example, 4.7k resistors for WLED,ALED,IGN1, & IGN2). Just for reference, I'm not an electronic engineer by any means- a real newbie to this so, if you could please speak in LAYMAN'S terms, LOL! All help is appreciated.
~Mike
~Mike
Atmospheric correction is super easy if you haven't stripped your stock harness.
Here is my post about hooking it up: https://www.rx7club.com/megasquirt-forum-153/oem-barometric-sensor-890000/
The bias resistor for the air temp sensor is surface mount, and you should not attempt to change it unless you have experience with these kind of components (its very easy to damage boards with normal irons). You will need to stick with whatever the stock resistor value is for the bias resistor.
There are a few other things...at home I have a connection diagram between the connector board and the main board. I have a few corrections for it, but I won't be able to work on that until early next week.
Thx, N1XRR. I have a buddy that is a MegaSpuirt tuner in SoCal that's thinking the changes need to be made in order to better suit my build. LOL, I'm about to take this thing and drop it off at his house!
...So, we've gotten, pretty much, all the perameters set-up except for the tach. Bare with me on this cause I'm no electrical engineer AT ALL!
Like I said, we're getting no tach signal. We've followed basic instructions on the boards with regards to set-up but they didn't work. While I've noticed that there are a few write-ups on MS2 set-up (arron cake, DIYPNP RX7 info posted 7/21/10) there's no indication of if that's utilizing the MicroSquirt board-basically the board that comes with the RX7 PNP.
So the question is, which set of instructions should i follow? To me, TMI is setting in.
Also, Can someone point out ABC trigger wheel info-meaning, which ignitors do they fire (A=Primary B=1 Secondary, C= Other secondary).
Thanks for your help.
~Mike
Like I said, we're getting no tach signal. We've followed basic instructions on the boards with regards to set-up but they didn't work. While I've noticed that there are a few write-ups on MS2 set-up (arron cake, DIYPNP RX7 info posted 7/21/10) there's no indication of if that's utilizing the MicroSquirt board-basically the board that comes with the RX7 PNP.
So the question is, which set of instructions should i follow? To me, TMI is setting in.
Also, Can someone point out ABC trigger wheel info-meaning, which ignitors do they fire (A=Primary B=1 Secondary, C= Other secondary).
Thanks for your help.
~Mike
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Covington, GA
Are you not seeing a tach signal on the dash tach, or not seeing a tach signal on the tuning software? Let me know and I'll go over what to check.
Spark A is leading, B is trailing, C is coil select.
Spark A is leading, B is trailing, C is coil select.
OK, we've got the car running, used trailing coil to gain rpm signal,but there seems to be an issue with trailing spark. we used 100ohm resistors to 12 volts on wled and aled. is this correct, and are there any other jumpers to enable spark output B&C. We have no rpm. OH, and we have a tach signal in TunerStudio-just not on the dash of the car!
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muythaibxr, any thoughts on this? This is pretty frustrating as I've got no trailing spark, thus, no timing on the trailing. OK, you can say I'm only losing 5% but its still alot of waisted gas.
A few a DIYPNP felt that the 100ohm was too much and would destroy the coil-it did not. The 4.7ohm was even worse. It would be nice to get this figured out within the next few days so I can hit the track. I've got an "interview" I've got to keep!
A few a DIYPNP felt that the 100ohm was too much and would destroy the coil-it did not. The 4.7ohm was even worse. It would be nice to get this figured out within the next few days so I can hit the track. I've got an "interview" I've got to keep!
MegaSquirt Mod
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,721
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
Just reading back through the thread... it says you got RPM from the trailing coil....
That doesn't make sense to me really... Are you really running that way or are you getting your RPM from a stock CAS?
Also, Did you make sure that spark C has a 1k pullup installed?
Dumb question, but did you enable rotary mode?
Ken
That doesn't make sense to me really... Are you really running that way or are you getting your RPM from a stock CAS?
Also, Did you make sure that spark C has a 1k pullup installed?
Dumb question, but did you enable rotary mode?
Ken
Update. Just wanted to let everyone know that the DIYPnP seems to have a "hardware" issue with regards to the rotary engine.
The guys over at DIYAutotune have been helpful in diagnosing the problem and a "fix" is in place. The cars' tach is now working and accurate. Unfortunately, we were unable to take car of secondary timing yet. A full report will follow...
As a side note, I initially had an Rytek 2.1 that, while adequate, did not allow for anywhere near the adjustments of the DIYPnP, and support/followup for MegaSquirt products is on another level. While both ECUs are in the same ballpark price-point wise, the advantage of being able to use a laptop on a dyno/street drive (Rtek suggested they would introduce such a feature-don't know where they are on this), more than makes up for the fact that you have to put together the PnP. It may even saving you money due to reduced dyno times. Time to brush up on your soldering skills!
~Mike
The guys over at DIYAutotune have been helpful in diagnosing the problem and a "fix" is in place. The cars' tach is now working and accurate. Unfortunately, we were unable to take car of secondary timing yet. A full report will follow...
As a side note, I initially had an Rytek 2.1 that, while adequate, did not allow for anywhere near the adjustments of the DIYPnP, and support/followup for MegaSquirt products is on another level. While both ECUs are in the same ballpark price-point wise, the advantage of being able to use a laptop on a dyno/street drive (Rtek suggested they would introduce such a feature-don't know where they are on this), more than makes up for the fact that you have to put together the PnP. It may even saving you money due to reduced dyno times. Time to brush up on your soldering skills!
~Mike
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
From: Lavonia, GA
Update. Just wanted to let everyone know that the DIYPnP seems to have a "hardware" issue with regards to the rotary engine.
The guys over at DIYAutotune have been helpful in diagnosing the problem and a "fix" is in place. The cars' tach is now working and accurate. Unfortunately, we were unable to take car of secondary timing yet. A full report will follow...
As a side note, I initially had an Rytek 2.1 that, while adequate, did not allow for anywhere near the adjustments of the DIYPnP, and support/followup for MegaSquirt products is on another level. While both ECUs are in the same ballpark price-point wise, the advantage of being able to use a laptop on a dyno/street drive (Rtek suggested they would introduce such a feature-don't know where they are on this), more than makes up for the fact that you have to put together the PnP. It may even saving you money due to reduced dyno times. Time to brush up on your soldering skills!
~Mike
The guys over at DIYAutotune have been helpful in diagnosing the problem and a "fix" is in place. The cars' tach is now working and accurate. Unfortunately, we were unable to take car of secondary timing yet. A full report will follow...
As a side note, I initially had an Rytek 2.1 that, while adequate, did not allow for anywhere near the adjustments of the DIYPnP, and support/followup for MegaSquirt products is on another level. While both ECUs are in the same ballpark price-point wise, the advantage of being able to use a laptop on a dyno/street drive (Rtek suggested they would introduce such a feature-don't know where they are on this), more than makes up for the fact that you have to put together the PnP. It may even saving you money due to reduced dyno times. Time to brush up on your soldering skills!
~Mike
To elaborate, after getting the PnP together, we ran into issues getting the tach on the car to work-it was fine on the laptop (tunerstudio).
After getting verification that the ecu "build" was sound, we'd worked w/DIYAutotune to diagnose the problem. Matt @ DIY suggested we try running a jumper wire from pin 11 to WLED to see if that fixes it-and it seems to have.
We weren't able to get timing corrected (missing gun) but RPM on car tach is, so far, consistent with what we're seeing in Tunerstudio. Won't know for sure until we get the car dialed in-it's still raining here...
~Mike
After getting verification that the ecu "build" was sound, we'd worked w/DIYAutotune to diagnose the problem. Matt @ DIY suggested we try running a jumper wire from pin 11 to WLED to see if that fixes it-and it seems to have.
We weren't able to get timing corrected (missing gun) but RPM on car tach is, so far, consistent with what we're seeing in Tunerstudio. Won't know for sure until we get the car dialed in-it's still raining here...
~Mike
Just to clarify, there was no trailing spark at all, hence, no working tach as tach signal is taken from the trailing coils. Yes, it's only a 5% power loss but it's 5% none the less.