Hi guys, I finished building my Stim a few days ago and started building my MS2 v3 board today.
I have been following the Megamanual assembly guide step-by-step.
The first several steps went fine, but I am to the point where I am suppose to test the voltage regulator using a DMM.
This is step #23 in the assembly guide.

On the 40 pin processor socket, I am not getting any voltage out of Pin #1 (supposed to be 5v)
I thought I might of had a cold solder joint, so I reheated the joint and it looked fine.
THEN, I noticed that the actual pin in the socket was raised about 1/64 - 1/32" above the other pins.

(Pin 1 is the bottom right pin in the pic)

Sorry about the large image size, its just very hard to see in the picture.

 

I thought it'd be worth mentioning that if I probe pin 1 from the bottom instead of the actual pin, I still get no readings.
Out of curiosity, I also jumpered pin 20 (5v) to pin1.
When I probed pin 1 to pin 2 (gnd) I got 5v, so does this mean the solder point is good?
Ive double checked everything Ive assembled so far and it all looks right.

EDIT
I forgot to mention, I am getting voltage from the other 2 pins (20 and 31 I believe), just not pin 1.

 

you probably heated up the pin too much, melted the plastic around it slightly, and then were able to push it up a little with the iron. The schematics for the V3 board are here:
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
so you can check the components upstream of pin 1

 

I think you're right about it overheating and melting.
I jumpered pin 20 to pin 1 (both 5v) from the back and the front of the socket still
read 5v, so Im not sure what the problem is.
In the schematics, it looks like pin 1 just goes to source.
Is this correct?
I am wondering if I could get away with permanently jumpering pin 1 and pin 20.

Ive triple checked all components Ive installed so far and the only thing that looks
physically questionable to me is pin 1 on the 40 socket.

 

Looks like you've got L1 installed incorrectly.

 

bingo, Eagle7 is correct. the right leg of L1 in the picture you posted is in one of the holes for R54.

 

Awesome. Ill check continuity when I get home. If the solder points are good, is there a chance L1 is bad?

 

you need to de-solder that leg of L1, then solder it into the correct hole before you get continuity

 

WOW, I cant believe I didnt see that!
Right there in the picture.
I feel like an idiot, but at least it's an easy fix.
Thanks guys!

 

FIXED!
Thanks for keeping me sane!