Alright, I'm compiling a list of stuff needed for basic operation of the MS3x.

I got 5 injector connectors thinking using the extra one for my factory water temp sensor. I use two female spades on my IAT sensor, leaving only the factory CAS connector and a IACV connector to be sourced.

DIYautotune order w/pre-built MS3x for $1096 (attached)
Volvo IACV Ebay for $31 shipped

Boost control solenoid $47 optional.
Also the TunerStudio software is $50
Shipping from DIY to me in FL was $20

So in total?
$1244

 

Description-----------------------------------Price
MS3 Wiring Harness -----------------------$85.00
MS3X Wiring Harness----------------------$89.00
MS3X w/ PCB v3.57 & Case assembled-$643.00
Innovative LC-1 Wideband w/ Sensor--$200.00
LS2 coil packs------------------------------- $65.00
LS2 coil pigtails------------------------------$36.00
GM IAT sensor & pigtail--------------------$20.00
GM CLT sensor & pigtail--------------------$16.00
Bosch EV1 injector pigtail (BAC Valve)---$8.00
NipponDenso S5 injector pigtails---------$30.00

-------------------------------------------------$1,192.00

 

You will need 4 coils packs $268.
Wideband I left separate considering some people may have one already.
You do not need the GM sensors, and I included a pigtail for just the Water temp.
And fuel injector connectors will vary, I choose the ones I did just for a price representation.

 

And mine is the parts list from my current setup. You can get LS2 coils for ~$16 each ($16 x 4 = $64). Of course you can use the factory sensors and ignition if you want to, but then you have to dick with bias resistors, sensor curves, and limited spark dwell at high rpm. It's easier to use all common GM sensors now that you have the opportunity. If anything dies I can run down to Autozone and pick up a sensor or pigtail in the future. I don't see how a wideband is not necessary unless you will be tuning on a dyno and using their wideband. You have very limited tuning ability with the factory 1 wire sensor.

 

Ya you know I read about using the resistors on the temp sensors, but I talked to the guy at DIY about it and he said you won't need to do any of that, it's silly to buy sensors.

A few people already have widebands.

Where'd you get coils for $16 ea?

 

Out of curiosity, what made you decide to switch from the LT10 to a MS3?

 

Well, the LT10 sucks...

No closed loop, poor datalogging, crappy distributor based ignition model, poor interpolation on the the fuel table, stone age software, locked I/O configuration, etc. etc.

Microtechs are not modern ECUs by any means.

 

Thanks Aaron. To reiterate,

You'll get worse MPG
Requires expensive dongles and serial to USB adapters to get a microtech datalogging
There's no customizable fuel and ignition tables
The read out for MT is green and randomly flickers numbers, the megasquirt has multiple gauge display set ups, all fully customizable.
MT has no customizable input and output configuration causing issues with say, running two different rpm switch outputs.

 

question: why did you need to get two wiring harnesses?

 

disregard the question. i got the answer from the diyautotune site. thanks anyway.

 

Yessir, one for the Ms3 board, one for the Ms3X board.

 

Buy an additional length of twin shielded for the CAS second VR circuit as well.
The MS3 harness comes with the shielded wire, but I don't think tthat the MS3X harness does.

Wire - 2 Core Shielded 20 Gauge - 10&#39 DIYAutoTune.com

Arran

 

Correct...The current MS3X harness doesn't have a shielded VR/Hall input.

 

Ms3x harness is not shielded, but if you get the adapter (roughly $5) you can run 2 Ms3 Harnesses. I believe this is how i have one setup, dont quote me on it b/c im not outside stairing at it.

 

So basically you could pop the pins out of the connector for the MS3x and re pin it with the shielded length of wire? Diyautotune probably will throw in a couple of extra pins if you ask.

 

For a couple hundred more bucks you could also go with a link g4rx or a ps1000 and not have to deal with any of the hassles of configuring a ms3.

 

Configuring an MS3x really isn't a hassle. Set two jumpers, and then add one wire to the harness.

Actually, buying new pins isn't necessary. Just cut the existing cam inputs very short and solder to them, then solder the shield to one of the ground wires. Insulate with heat shrink and reassemble the DB37. Done and done.

I have my hands on a prototype MS3 from DIYAutoTune right now that requires no mods whatsoever to run the 13B. More on that to come later in my next Cosmo video.

 

I need to get into the link, motech, and haltech software to really see what it's capable of. But really the MS has some really advanced features.

I figured repining would be better? One less solder joint, I'm also trying to pin in all of my connectors, but I don't know if I can find the TPS connector or the CAS connector pins.

 

No, just a different set of hassles to deal with. Every system has its quirks.

Ken

 

And the MS keeps getting better and better as features are added. New code is released 10 times more often than the big names. Plus, well, you can always put in a feature request.

The TPS connector is just a three pin spade connector. Should be able to find replacements at any auto parts store.

The CAS connector is made by Sumitomo. You may be able to find parts at EFI Connection, LLC - Welcome to www.eficonnection.com . Or, you can just swap on more modern connectors. That's what I tend to do. Makes replacement swapping slightly less convenient.

If you want to repin, go nuts. I've done it both ways but find it a lot easier to deal with soldering than those tiny pins (plus I don't have the crimper, so I end up soldering them anyway).

 

Ya great point with going with newer connectors. You happen to know the pin size/crimper size on the MS3x?




Merry xmas btw.

 

Same as any standard computer cables, so if you pick up a DB9 kit at Radio Shack or any electronics store, it will have the correct pins. Not sure on the crimper side as I don't have one with me at the moment.

 

Alright I think the main connectors for the MS3x are of the solder cup variety. So de solder and solder the shielded wire in place for the CAS. And is shielding the CAS connector necessary? Or will any ol connector work?

What are these other modifications you speak of to allow to MS3x to work on an FC?

 

Any reason not to use the original Mazda CAS 4 wire lead from the OE harness?

 

Ya, suppose that would work. I like brand new stuff though lol.