Agreed. It sounds like the CAS is not installed correctly or the tooth #1 setting is wrong.

Ken

 

whats the tooth #1 setting? Looking at the way my CAS and his CAS sit they're pretty much in the same position.

I did remake a new Rotary Split map for him as I just realized something. His thing is MAP based and mine is TPS based so it a bit different in the way they should be scaled and where the timing need to be.

 

Here's some shots of some rotary maps that I've done now:

This is from my Economy MSQ:


This one is from my Track MSQ:


This is Martin's current split:


Lastly this is the one that I would like to put in tonight hopefully:


One thing that you should note in the last map that I'd like to run is the scale it different now, also since his engine at idle is at around 50 kpa I have bumped up the rotary split to 15 degrees to enhance the idle. Lastly I've smoothed out the stepping, I think that should smooth out the whole power curve. Let me know what you guys think of this idea though.

I had a new timing map done up too that took me about an hour to remake, but when i was about to save it megatune crashed and I was a bit ticked off so didn't remake it yet. Was up till about 3:30am working on it :@. I did pull back some ignition advance from the MAP when I was working on it to make it safer but we'll have to see if that helps out or not. Its actually not too bad right now in my prespective.

 

K here's the old and the new proposed timing for Martin's Car:

This is what he's running right now:


This is the one I'm going to try an upload:


So the things that you will notice on here is more timing in the cruising range, and also less timing in the boost area.

 

It's the setting that determines what angle tooth #1 is at. It's the setting that basically determines how ALL the timing calcs are done. In other words, the most important single setting in the firmware for ignition.

Ken

 

that was set at zero on his car .. we now changed it to 5. My new timing maps definatly made a HUGE improvements as far as overall driveability and increasing torque all across but mostly low to midrange. I did tweak them a bit on the car, but I'll post up the differences when i get a chance.

 

k here's the new split and advance map:

 

i should also mention that the stuttering is actually boost creep, the car is seeing about 10-15 psi in some spots and its that quick up/down movement of it thats messing things up in the upper range.

 

ok so we found the #1 tooth setting and set it. the car seams to drive and sound the same after we set it. we are still running higher timing under boost and seams to pull hard! i think we figure out our "stutter" its boost spikes im ok if i help boost around 5-8psi ish but the longer i hold it down the more she spikes all over the place from 6-15psi so looks like i need to port the S5 waste gate after im running no boost controller just turbo vac to waste gate vac and she is releasing enough any more

 

Just setting it isn't enough, you have to set it to the correct setting (5 degrees) then actually set the fixed timing to -5 and check the timing on the e-shaft wheel with a light. Then you'll need to adjust the CAS to make the timing line up.

Keep in mind that after changing that setting, you have to reboot the MS as well, or you won't see any difference.

Ken

 

I did reset the MS and we did re-do it with the timing light but we still kept the same timing and its running perfectly fine.

 

Lock the timing at -5 and start the engine with a timing light on it. Hold the engine at 1K, 2K, 3K, 4K, 5K and 6K. The mark should always line up with the pulley. If it starts to drift as the RPMs increase, the VR signal is inverted.

 

we did rev it to maybe 3 or 4 k momentarily and was staying there. The signal to the timing light is cleaner at higher rpms anyways. But you really think we need to take it up to 6k?

 

You'll only really start to notice the drift around 4K and above.

 

would it be drifting further back the more we revved it?

 

This isn't always the case, it can sometimes retard a bit with RPM just from the primary trigger conditioner having some capacitance. That's what we added the hardware latency setting for. You can use this to account for the delay between when the analog signal from the CAS crosses zero and when the conditioner actually generates the rising edge.

Ken

 

It will drift back a little normally if you're not using the hardware setting due to capacitance in the conditioning circuit (for noise filtering).

Adjusting the hardware latency setting can get rid of this slight drift.

If the trigger signal is inverted, you'll see the timing drift A LOT more than if it's not.

Ken

 

ok i did test this but i was by my self and could not see the rpms i was at, plus i was parked u\in an underground parking lot so it souded like 6k rpm but might not have been more then 3. il gt ym wife to rev her u tonight and il have a close better look to make shure thanks for the info on the lag il look into that as well as this might just cause the little bit of prob we are having.

 

ok so i put my note book on the roof and looked at the mark as i was going up in rpm ranges. from 1k rpm to 7k rpm the timing seams to be steady it dose seam to move i would say 1 degree to the right but still touches the timing ping on the housing is that ok of should it stay there no matter what!!! so should i use some setting in the ms software to fix this prob or is it ok this way? im adding a short data log as well its not that big but its bad
theres no afrs but in boost we are looking around 11.5 ish and out of boost im getting 12-14 depending on my acceleration.

 

if i have time in the morning il re stab the cas just to make sure we are still on track as i have not done this since we did the new firm ware update.

 

If the timing is right no need to restab, then you have to start all over with the timing light.

Ken

 

update: DJ55b found that my mapdot threshold (kpa/s) was set to 0 and was going in to invalid mode so we put that up to 300 from 100, then he found the tpsdot threshold% might be just a little to low so we moved it up to 25 from 20.
car seams to better now but theres still a prob with timing.... i was playing with timing in low boost 5psi range and im having to run 22ish degrees witch i know is all wrong but less then that and the car souds like *** and seams to work so hard to move its self in boost (even tho we are moving at a fast past :P ) any ways what else could cause timing to be soo off?? now this might be normal or might not be.. but the map base kpa/s in accel wizard is all over the place so the "signal" is up and down all the time never consistent. could this be causing timing probs as in giving the wrong timing cause its spiking the wrong kpas in map? see where im getting here? would the "pill trick" work if this is the case (like what we some times need to do with stock map)

 

How about starting by disabling MAPdot and just using TPSdot for now? With your S5 full range TPS it should be fine.

I don't know what's up with your timing issue though. How well does the car run out of boost with the timing in those tables? Looking at them, it should run quite well and if you aren't getting weird timing effects at higher RPMs then I'd have to conclude there isn't a problem with your setup physically.

 

well see i thought to disable MAPdot, you just had to move the slider all the way to the right in the accel enrichments. But that still seems to be active thats why I thought I'd try out putting a higher number in there to disable it.

 

the car runs supper supper nice and quick and smooth as well out of boost when i find a nice stretch of road staying out of boost feels GOOD then i try and hit boost to exemplify the feeling and
lol

thats what i figured as well. but guss its not doing the trick....