Ok I smoothed out the ve table and started getting to boost 5-7 psi. Was looking and feeling better and better. Then here is wheat happened.
Injector staging basickly stopped, then several times I count not connect to controller. Followed by a sudden change in afr. I looked at megasquirt battery voltage reading and it said 12.9-13.0. Looked low to me. I had a friend comming with a spare fd and s5 alt so he loaned them to me since he was coming. I swapped out the alts to the s5 and started it got 14.7 volts approx at times it said 15volts. Worried me that the regulator might be out.But I drove it anyway around the block. Ran fine except the staged injection, I came back and turned it off got my stuff and hopped in to leave and it would not restart. I tried changing msq files and still nothing. I swapped back to old alternator (my fd alt) Still nothing so untill it starts I cant tell you if the original had good output voltage or not. I did not get any resets since I messed with the alternators. Only thing I know to do is to redo the msq all together like reflash megasquirt code and reinstall megatune. I think thats is.Oh and I have bad alt whine, I never had before megasquirt or moved my battery.
If anyone has a good idea throw it out there.Thanks
PS seems like its not getting fuel

 

Here is a log and msq

 

sounds like the 12v wiring on your secondary injectors is bad, you fried the MS internals for driving the secondaries, or there is some other problem causing the secondaries not to work.

I would verify that they're actually working.

Ken

 

output test mode?

 

That would be what i'd do yeah.

Ken

 

cool ill let you know what happens, do you know the settings?

 

They should be pretty self-explanatory. They don't seem to work well with TunerStudio though, so use MegaTune.

Ken

 

ok used output test mode injectors clickinginj1 and inj2. so should the injector flyback circuits be ok?im going to check fuel pressure.

 

What kind of injectors are you using?

The flyback circuit should be fine if you're using high-impedance secondaries. Even with low impedance it should be fine if it's set up properly.

Ken

 

all low imp primaries and secondaries denso720cc primaries and bosch 1680cc secondaries. I was thinking for peace of mind adding resistors to all the injectors. So things should be fine if they are clicking?

 

If they're clicking but you're having trouble once you stage, either your flyback circuits are messed up, or the PWM settings for the secondaries are wrong.

If you're going to get resistors (get pretty low resistance ones) then you can just put them on and not worry about the PWM settings. Otherwise you'll need to read the megamanual for tuning the PWM parameters, and get those set up properly.

Ken

 

10ohm resistors the big heat resistant ones. So the injectors can click and the flyback circuit can still be bad? I had set up the pwm setting per mega manual for low imp injectors same for primary and secondary, and never had a problem with primaries till now. I cant start the car still so staging is still in question, but until it starts again ima keep looking.

 

If the injectors are clicking, the problem is unlikely to be anything MS related. Did you double check that you're getting spark? Is the fuel pump turning on?

10 ohm resistors are probably way too high resistance. You probably want something more like 3-5 ohms.

Ken

 

OK so here is what I been able to find out.
1. fuel injector signal with a noid light looks good and injectors clicked with the output testmode.
2. spark verified with a inline spark test light
3.fuel pump works
4 fuel pressure goes crazy when cranking(set at sixty its high but still jumps to 60 then cranking goes down to 20psi and back over and over)
5. fuel pump relay clicks like crazy when cranking(never noticed before)
6.jumped power direct to fuel pump and tried to start but still did not start
7 Car tries to start but don't
Think im going to try to make a fresh msq from scratch and see what happens.Anyone else have a suggestion?

 

What is your cranking advance set to?

 

10

 

Unless you've got some crazy porting, I'd set that to 0.

Ken

 

Half bridge?

 

Ok I do not know what most use with a half bridge for timing on crank. If I were you I would go lower an higher and see if it helps.

With stock ports, 0 degrees works well, and if I go as high as 5 or as low as -9 it will no longer start.

Ken

 

Also, between each start attempt, clear all the fuel out by cranking a bit in flood clear mode. Otherwise you will probably foul your plugs.

Ken

 

If has been starting with ten degrees what happened? ill change it and let you know

 

Ok so noticed the iat sensor reading very high, starts like 1500 degree then goes to 2000 and repeats hmm

 

Calibrations off? Either that or the voltage regulator or something else in the power circuit is having issues.

 

Voltage regulator for the MS? Or alternator?

 

Ok recalibrated iat sensor and it is reading now. Changed plugs out but still nothing as far as starting.Sucks