This should be gone quick.

 

This is an incredible piece. If no one picks this up by this weekend, i'll take it.

 

Thanks guys


PM me your shipping address and I can get you a quote tomorrow

 

This is surprisingly still available

 

That is very surprising.

I was actually thinking about getting one of these a couple years ago, but then I realized I didn't want to drill into the firewall to mount that part, and it seemed like it would be very difficult to even remove the UIM if I needed to. I like the idea of the extra rigidity though.

 

Good points Eric - I think this would be perfect for a low maintenance street car

 

****, I just realized my comments aren't helping lol. I'm sorry.

I was thinking it would be a pain to remove the UIM and stuff like that, but it looks like it might not be that bad actually.

What a beautiful engine bay btw.

 

​​​​​​It's all good - your considerations are good call outs for any prospective buyers

Engine bay would look way more beautiful with this brace in it - clearance issues with the UIM directioning and IC couplers, and a higher engine on FFE motor mounts are making install difficult without extensive rework


My loss, someone else's gain - come and get it!


My consolation prize

 

I think it might be illegal to not have the front brace if you have the rear brace already installed. So it's imperative that you make the front one work by whatever means necessary. LOL That looks cool through the hatch like that.

I swapped to IRP mounts from the old Noltec mounts I was using because the UIM was hitting the strut bar. Even now I only have a few mm of clearance, and I had to put bushings on top of the bar so the hood wouldn't rest on it. Although I understand those FFE mounts have increased adjustability. They just won't go low enough huh? They look like they're pretty tall.

I'm using an HKS elbow and it runs down between the ps pump and strut tower, but then you'd have to relocate the fuse boxes and rework the piping. Ugh.

 

I had similar rubbing issues on my previous engine setup, Cusco and Noltec motor mounts with the N1 hood - had to pinch it somewhat in the middle (not terrible considering how much that piece cost 2005)

I think I would have been in the clear on this had I retained the OEM UIM and under-UIM coil bracket. We found wonky fuel readings in baseline tuning that lead to pulling and fuel rate testing the ID's, that led me to a "well while the UIM is off, let's replace it with Elliot's easy power-adder UIM"... Skewed the alignment of the previously just done intercooler piping, that wouldn't have been a problem had I stuck to silicone couplers with wiggle room vs the solid no-move LPS AlphaLocs....

These fitment issues are all problems of my own making something something thing's worth having in life are never easy something something


I have some crackpot ideas up my sleeve to keep it legit with the if rear brace then front brace legalities

Miter saw, a cool hand, some welding, and a vibrant red recoating...

 

double post

 

Messaged - always pictured owning an FD with an AutoExe front bar.

 

Ah, you were bitten by the "while I'm in there" bug. Haven't we all? LOL

I've had some of those LPS alphalocs for about 8 years now waiting to put them into my next iteration.

And regarding the coil bracket, I still have the stock UIM with AEM coils and a custom bracket I made to put them in the original location, that's why I would be concerned with switching to the Turblown UIM. But it sounds like all that fits. Do you have the AEM coils there still too?

LOL that's great!

Ok that might work. Would you raise it some to clear, or do you mean you'd just cut it out completely? lol

 

Responded - I will get you a shipping quote tomorrow


Power on the Turblown UIM was an easy choice add, worth the headaches


I initially had the IGN1-A's under the UIM with Costas' bracket:




but they didn't fit under the new UIM:




so they are now fully out of the way on the frame rail:




I initially looked into strut tower shims to raise it up, but we're way passed that on height issues

I mean to cut that tower to tower bar completely, assuming I will lose some latitudinal rigidity (assuming I'd keep some from the firewall rear horizontal bracing) but will be able to gain some longitudinal rigidity versus doing nothing

 

I didn't realize there was that much of a power bump with that UIM. Or is it power delivery?

I also didn't know Costas made a bracket. I'll have to search for that.

I had some spacers water-jetted years ago for the strut tower bar to clear, but that wouldn't work for this considering the changes in the rest of the mounting points. Yeah I figure it would still add rigidity, just not as much.

 

So do you have to drill additional holes into the firewall to make this work? How do you create the threading?

 

Power bump - I didn't get to do back to back tests on the dyno, but Elliot has some customers who have



He's a talented man




Yes to new holes in the firewall, threading with a tap and die (or possibly nuts and bolts as AutoExe intended)




Front section
1. Remove the wiper arm, cowl banel, front sustall (3 places on the top side of the pot) and the rebound stoutbar.
2. Remove the igniter mounting port located in the bulkhead on the passenger side and leave it free.
3. Remove the clips on the left and right sides of the weather strip attached to the bulkhead, and enlarge the hole where the clip was inserted to the middle 8 toward the inside front.
4. After processing, use touch-up paint to prevent rust. Place the F1 front tower place on the car with the front jacked up and the suspension tower studs tucked down.
5. If you do not push the stud bolt in, the stud bolt will interfere and you will not be able to put the tower place on it. Fix the front tower place with the nut of the front suspension tower removed in step 2 and mark the new opening machining point of the bulkhead. Once the front tower place is removed, 8 holes are drilled in the marking position.
6. After processing, use touch-up paint to prevent rust. Referring to the figure below, place the F1 front tower frace on the car again and fix it using designated bolts or genuine bolts.
7. Jack down and return the genuine parts removed in 1.~2. to their original state. Finally, protect the vacuum hose of the Preiki Mastervac with an F8 spiral tube and you're done.

 

Closing thread