1993 Mazda RX-7 Touring - 76K Miles, Rebuilt Engine, Clean GA Title, Black
For Sale1993 Mazda RX-7
May 12, 2021, 08:36 AM | Replies: 16 | Views: 4577
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Price
$27,000
- Location Dawsonville, GA, 30534, USA
- Condition Used
- VIN JM1FD3316P0204817
- Mileage 76,059
- Engine Other
- Drive Type 2WD
- Transmission Manual
- Vehicle Type Coupe
- Exterior Color Black
Description:
I purchased this FD in April 2015 with 69k miles when it was completely stock. I am the third owner, the first two owners lived in Alabama. Stock brilliant black paint in decent shape but many dings/scratches. It originally had tan leather interior, but has been fitted with black base seats, door panels, floor mats, and seatbelts. The current engine has about 4k miles on the rebuild. Asking $27,000. Located in North Georgia, clean title in my name in hand. More photos available upon request.
Engine/Transmission/Suspension Work Done
- Engine replaced at ~72k miles in February 2017 with a rebuilt engine.
- Apex’i Power FC computer with commander
- Simplified sequential twin turbo system
- Silicone vacuum lines, check valves, solenoids – all replaced in the last 6k miles
- Turbos replaced at 70k miles with lower-mile, 96 model units
- All emissions components removed
- Delrin engine mounts with rubber isolators (stiff but not excessive vibration transfer)
- UIM wrinkle coated, LIM wrapped in heat reflecting tape, downpipe is heat wrapped
- Exedy stage 1 clutch kit, ACT Monoloc collar, resurfaced flywheel, Redline trans fluid all at 72k miles
- Banzai Racing short throw shifter, oil pan brace, aluminum underdrive pulleys
- 3” Pettit Racing downpipe, RX-7 store high flow cat (hollow), OEM catback
- Underhood fuel components and OMP lines/injectors replaced at 71k miles, fuel injectors replaced previously
- Pettit Racing 185° fan switch, 180° thermostat, air separator tank, and grounding kit in 2017
- Full Function Engineering idler pulley, Magnecor plug wires
- Koni Yellow adjustable shocks, Eibach Pro Kit springs, EBC Redstuff ceramic brake pads front and rear
- Custom steel battery tray and oil cooler duct (single cooler), NRG hood struts
Other Mentions
- OEM Mazda 99 spec front bumper and lower lip, aluminum RX-7 half-plate
- Shine duckbill spoiler (wrapped gloss black) and side steps (painted), both fiberglass
- New headlight covers in 2015, Silverstar headlight bulbs, all other bulbs are LED
- Kenwood touchscreen head unit, Kenwood speakers, shorty antenna, backup camera
- Mazda6 steering wheel with functional lights and radio controls
- Refinished dash plastics in dark-gray, has held up well
- Depo 2-in-1 gauges- boost & coolant temp, oil temp & oil pressure
- Efini key, Garage Alpha floor and hatch mats (subs in hatch will likely be removed from car)
- Python keyless entry and hatch release (remote start and turbo timer capable but not wired)
- JDM black seat belts, JDM center armrest and custom center console cup holder!
Current Issues
- Primary to secondary boost transition is not always smooth, often hiccups. Currently looking into this.
- Odometer, tach, and speedometer will come and go. This is a new problem, possibly a CPU 2 solder joint/capacitor issue. Currently looking into this.
- Throw out bearing makes slight whine when clutch is pressed, has since new but functions as intended
- Turbos weep oil, leave a few drops under car
- AC loses charge after a few months
- She’s a 20 footer, could use a repaint and body work – many little dents, scratches, paint chips, poor repair on driver door, spoiler could use a re-wrap, etc.
Newbie
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: SC
black RX7
Hi Brett,
I may be interested in the car. Nice exterior and interior. I am new to the forum, so please contact me back if this a a PM messaging system. I have some questions on the engine including looking at receipt for the new engine (or rebuild).
I may be interested in the car. Nice exterior and interior. I am new to the forum, so please contact me back if this a a PM messaging system. I have some questions on the engine including looking at receipt for the new engine (or rebuild).
I just sent you a PM Norman. I have had that question before so I'm going to post here as well.
Unfortunately I do not have a receipt for the rebuilt engine. I purchased it in Charleston SC back in 2016. The seller was the second owner, the first owner had it rebuilt but sold the car before reinstalling the engine. The seller did not know who had rebuilt it, just that it was done in Chicago and the builder used Atkins apex seals. Back then I posted a thread asking if anyone could identify the builders marks but never got any solid answers. I had looked inside the engine with a small camera and was happy with what I saw. The price was right so I took the chance and bought it, and thankfully it paid off, it fired right up when I installed it in early-2017 and has been great since, still going strong 4 years later.
I do have one of those RotaryCompressionTester.com testers and plan to get compression numbers on the car soon, as soon as I can get help recording the process.
I drove the car about 250 miles up to DGRR last week and it performed very well. I got more familiar with the boost issue, it seems to only happen under ~4200 RMPS. It will reach full boost then bleed down to 5 or 6 pounds, rise up, bleed off, etc. I think I may have a bad check valve somewhere, I am going to take a closer look soon. But even with that boost issue it drove great, it kept me smiling across many curvy mountain roads, it felt nearly as quick as my other built-up FD.
I spoke to some friends about the odometer/gauges issue and they think I could have a loose connection on the back of the gauge cluster, they said that is a common problem. The odometer capacitors were replaced a while back so I know it is not those. The gauges worked for the majority of my DGRR trip, the odometer worked maybe 20% of the time. I plan to take a closer look at that issue soon too, just have to find the time.
I expect it to get some videos posted this weekend or next week.
Below are old pictures of the engine prior to installing in early-2017.
Unfortunately I do not have a receipt for the rebuilt engine. I purchased it in Charleston SC back in 2016. The seller was the second owner, the first owner had it rebuilt but sold the car before reinstalling the engine. The seller did not know who had rebuilt it, just that it was done in Chicago and the builder used Atkins apex seals. Back then I posted a thread asking if anyone could identify the builders marks but never got any solid answers. I had looked inside the engine with a small camera and was happy with what I saw. The price was right so I took the chance and bought it, and thankfully it paid off, it fired right up when I installed it in early-2017 and has been great since, still going strong 4 years later.
I do have one of those RotaryCompressionTester.com testers and plan to get compression numbers on the car soon, as soon as I can get help recording the process.
I drove the car about 250 miles up to DGRR last week and it performed very well. I got more familiar with the boost issue, it seems to only happen under ~4200 RMPS. It will reach full boost then bleed down to 5 or 6 pounds, rise up, bleed off, etc. I think I may have a bad check valve somewhere, I am going to take a closer look soon. But even with that boost issue it drove great, it kept me smiling across many curvy mountain roads, it felt nearly as quick as my other built-up FD.
I spoke to some friends about the odometer/gauges issue and they think I could have a loose connection on the back of the gauge cluster, they said that is a common problem. The odometer capacitors were replaced a while back so I know it is not those. The gauges worked for the majority of my DGRR trip, the odometer worked maybe 20% of the time. I plan to take a closer look at that issue soon too, just have to find the time.
I expect it to get some videos posted this weekend or next week.
Below are old pictures of the engine prior to installing in early-2017.
Last edited by BrettLinton7; May 18, 2021 at 03:35 PM.
