Greetings everyone. I've decided to get my 1984 GSL-SE back running. It was turfed for over 6 years and once I hot wired the bad pigtail, it fired right up with both rotors firing unlike some engines I've started that had bad seals so it had to get the water out of the bad rotor before it would run, aggh, bad memories. I guess it's always a good idea to have the best antifreeze that has the best corrosion resistance as well.

Now that it runs, it's time to put it back on the road.

I'm buying:
New clutch and brake master cylinders.
New clutch slave cylinder.
All new calipers.
New rotors.
New carpet.
New dash if I can find one.
Anything I'm missing? I've got extra igniters so I should be good on that part.

Since I have to take the dash off, should I replace the heater control valve that's up against the dashboard and is impossible to replace without pulling the dash? I've already had one leak.


Does anyone know if the 6 speed tranny in an RX8 will bolt into a 1st gen like an SE?

The beauty is that the part's prices aren't too bad except for the 3rd gen one, wow it must cost money to keep one running.

In the past I've had:
1) 1984 GSL RX-7 (12a) (I put in three engines in three years)
2) 1979 that I put a rebuilt engine in it to resell, that thing was fast and passed the smog test here in California.
3) 1984 GSL-SE, died in an accident.
4) 1983, got me to work, sold it running.
5) 1990 convertible that despite its supposedly rebuilt engine, it was a dog. I expect to have to rev an RX-7 to get anywhere but this thing had issues, I gave it away.
6) The one I'm working on now I've has since 1990. It's on its second engine, the second rear end, a couple of clutches and if you want nightmares, remember how much of a hassle it is to get the pilot bearing out, what, do they last two days? Everyone I've worked on, all the needles in the bearing were gone and the outside of the pilot bearing likes to weld itself to the eccentric shaft. It does have the best rebuilt rotary engine I've ever seen (I hope I didn't jinx myself).

I love RX-7s, If I see a gen 1 on the road I think to myself that that person is a committed fan!
Thank you all!

 

Yea! Another diehard fan of the 1stgen! That's all I've played with when it comes to RX-7s, you've got good taste there! The more 1stgen folk who join, the better, I always say!

Thanks for taking the time to register and welcome to RX-7 Club!

Mario III, SuperModerator

 

Hello ljardin,

I have owned a fex RX-7's of the first generation myself and have seen a fair amount of engines go bad too.
When you say that it is important to use the best antifreeze there is to preserve the rotorhousings and other crucial engineparts, I believe you.
However: what is the best type of corrosion-proof antifreeze?
I have used normal (blue) coolant, the kind that comes ready-to-use and that you are supposed the change every few years. I forget that most of the time. but now there is a "new" type of coolant (the Red type that is used for GM and VW engines) that has an enlarged corrosion protection (they claim). Do you know whether or not we are allowed to use that stuff in our rotaries?

thanks, Jurgen

 

welcome to the club.

 

welcome. don't forget all the flex hoses to go with those clutch and brake parts.

 

Status as of 11-6-2011
The car now runs well. I also used stainless lines for all of the flexible brake lines and I've ordered the SS line for the clutch. I also had to buy a new windshield. I've ordered HID lights from Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400243146945...WAX:IT&vxp=mtr
They're have high and low filaments (if HIDs even use filaments). The other I looked at used a motor to adjust for hi-beam but I figured when you adjusted them, you'd end up with a compromise for each light level.
I also bought new seats:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350457765764...WAX:IT&vxp=mtr
They weren't that hard to mount and adjust like stock.
One thing I need is the black or silver leather headliner if anyone is parting out and if they are, I'll take the door panels and console as well.
I bought all new mechanisms for the doors including the welt the windows rides in as well as new regulators. I don't want to put them in until I get the car painted.

 

I'm sure there's an expert here that can recommend the best antifreeze for our engines. I used the top of the line (supposedly) Zerex -05. I explained the problem to the guy at Kragen and that's what he recommended. Normally, I don't exactly believe the parts guy but this guy knew what I was talking about. In fact, everyone I've dealt with at this particular Kragen was pretty smart.

I read somewhere, I think on this board, that someone recommended grounding each engine segment so it would be rear housing, rotor housing, intermediate housing, front rotor housing and the front housing and then to a good chassis ground. I don't know if it works but the science seems sound. Electrolysis takes place between two different metals at different potentials plus an electrolyte which is why it's a good idea to use good antifreeze so it limits the electrolyte piece. I might try grounding them.

 

Good Luck! From new member old 7 to another. . .
I also own a first generation 1980 Brilliant Black with the gold window timt and rims.

P.S. Any tips on what goes out after the water pump will be appreciated.

 

Awesome.

I recently picked a 83 GSL.

 

I don't understand the question...
Did your water pump die and you replaced it and now want to know what will fail next or do you want to know what engine damage happens when the water pump dies?

I'll assume it's dead or leaking and you want to know how to proceed.

Was it leaking out the weep hole (if RX-7's even have them) or did it seize and then the engine overheated causing leaking water housings.

Usually one way to tell if you have a leaking rotor housing ( water that is) is that when you start the engine, it runs on one rotor for a few seconds then the second one kicks in. If you run it for a while, everything expands and it tends to stop leaking, until the next cold start. If this happens there's an easy but depressing test you can do:

1) First you need to know which rotor isn't firing.

2) Take out the bottom spark plug (leading??), if water comes out that is the death knell for your engine. You now need a new engine, let's hope not and assume you caught it in time. You bought a 1st gen RX so I assume you're mechanically inclined


I'm hoping for your sake you noticed it quickly and shut off the engine. Does the engine start OK cold? Don't let it run until you fix the water pump.
If it runs, great!

1) Replace the water pump, I seem to recall one of the studs has a special washer on it that if you don't use it, it will leak. Look in the manual and look at all the gaskets you get with the kit. I use sealant on the gasket surfaces, pick your favorite. Make sure the sealing surfaces are clean!

2) While your there, replace all of the belts.

3) When the fan clutch is off, check to see if it turns freely since it's cold. If it doesn't, it might be bad. Also check to see if there is play, do the blades wobble?

4) While you're there, replace the thermostat, there's a thread on this board that recommends the best range, I seem to recall 160 which seems low for a piston engine but who knows for a rotary, I don't have the thread handy but I would search for it.

5) Assembly is reversal of disassemble (don't you hate that line in manuals?).

6) I don't know what the best antifreeze is but you need to use antifreeze or the motor will eat itself due to electrolysis. You can ask the parts guy, some know more than others but make sure you explain that you need protection from aluminum and iron electrolysis, or better yet, use the word corrosion.

7) I think the mixture is 50/50 but I'd double check.

8) Start it up, have the heater control set to hot (I've heard people give opposite advice but it's worked for me).

9) Keep the radiator cap off and let the engine warm up, keep an eye on the temp gauge and water level. The goal is to catch it when the thermostat opens so you can get rid of air pockets in the engine. It can take awhile, if the temp gauge goes too high, something is wrong (water level?) and you need to find out why.

10) If you see the water suddenly start to flow in the radiator, wait a minute and then fill it up. I usually let it run a few more minutes with the cap off but usually one it's full and the water is flowing the air pockets are gone. Put on the cap.

11) Watch temp gauge religiously for a while.

12) Look for leaks, park it in a dry spot and turn off the warmed up engine. Come back in ten minutes and if there isn't any water you should be good but keep looking for a while.

13) Make sure your overflow tank is filled as well.

14) You should test your fan clutch, there are several threads on this board how to do it.

One Final thing! I forget what year it was but I know the '79 didn't have an oil pressure gauge and it's possible your '80 doesn't either. I would recommend getting one ASAP. You say you just bought this, did you change the oil? All the RX-7s I've had ran well with Castrol 20W-50 although I've seen others recommend a different oil. Mazda used to say do not use synthetic oil period. I think they've found a brand they recommend but I forget what it is. Since I'm not a racer (besides listening to the over-rev buzzer every shift) the Castrol works fine for me. I usually do the 3000 mile change interval. I used to use FRAM oil filters but a lot of folks on this and other piston based boards hate FRAM and feel that the quality has gone down the drain. Last time I changed the oil, I used what the parts guy recommended (OK, so that's not a wise thing) but it was more expensive than FRAM but I forget the name now.

Yo should should also check the oil lines to the cooler. Check the brake and clutch lines as well. I also carry a spare clutch and clutch master cylinder rebuild kits with me and it's saved me more than once. I've replaced all the lines with SS except for the oil lines to the cooler and am planning on getting them ASAP.


Otherwise, you're done.

 

What color and how's the engine?

 

How's it look; what color is the interior and exterior? Does it have the stock rims?

Are all the solenoids, switches and generally the rat's nest in the engine compartment OK? If it hasn't been repainted or they didn't repaint or ever replace the hood, the vacuum diagram is there. I've never seen one match 100% but it's a good start.

Get a decent manual, whichever one you prefer is fine though there are posters here that know almost everything rotary so if you get them to recommend the best one, you'd be set. But I would get one ASAP.

Since the car is an '83, I would check the following:
How's the steering play? Does it seem loose. One place to look is the idler arm which is on the passenger side. If you can grab it by the joint that connects each wheel's steering and wiggle it and if it has too much play, that will cause steering looseness and is probably a safety hazard. Mazdatrix has a new, not rebuilt, heavy duty one:

http://mazdatrix.com/hsteer1.htm
The one you want to look at or buy is mook 9369 Yes, there are a lot of items, but the title of the one you want is, "79-85 Heavy Duty Competition Idler Arm".

Here's the price
http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=MOOK9369
The price is pretty good. I've used the rebuilt kits but I decided to use this one on my SE and it fit perfectly and I noticed tighter steering.

I'm not a shill for Mazdatrix, you can buy a new idler arm from any number of shops but that's the one I bought.

You should use locktite on the threads, I forget which color applies here but you could ask the parts guy. It's cheap insurance.

If you still have, what you feel is unnecessary looseness, there's an adjuster on the steering box. If you're mechanically inclined, it's easy to adjust. If you aren't have a shop that does Mazdas look at it. If you look on the top of the steering box, you will see a stud with a slot in it and a lock nut around it. What you do and don't attempt this if you aren't confident in your abilities is loosen the lock nut using a wrench while you have a screwdriver in the slot on the stud keeping the stud in the same place it was before you loosened the nut. The lock-nut is not on that tight usually. Once it's loose, you want to adjust the play in the steering box. You want to turn the stud counter-clockwise, don't use a ton of force, just rotate it as far as it will go easily. Now, rock the steering wheel back with your right hand and with your left hand adjust the stud. It should turn a little more but don't force it. Now, with a good screwdriver in the slot, tighten down the lock nut using the screw driver to keep the stud in the place you put it. Don't way over tighten it or you might end up with a stripped stud, you don't want this. What you do want is for the stud to be locked tightly into place. Hopefully this will tighten your steering. In a month or so, I would check the steering box lash adjustment again.


Safety, if you've got the care in the air, use good jack-stands to support it. I'm paranoid so I use jack-stands and I keep the floor jack in the same place where I jacked the car up. Once you lower the jack to let the car set on the jack-stands, turn the handle clockwise (at least on my floor-jack, double check please) and pump the floor-jack until it's putting a little pressure on the spot, not too much but if the jack-stand fails, you want the floor jack to support the car.

If it still has a lot of play, your choices are many:

1) Front wheel bearings, I doubt this is the problem although they might need adjusting, but if you're replacing the front brake pads, it wouldn't hurt to change them, especially if the cars has a lot of miles on it. If you do this, buy a set of brass punches so you can remove and re-install the bearings since they're an interference fit. I can't remember if I got them at the hardware store or the local auto supply but they're worth every penny.

2) Tie rod ends, these go bad with time and they're easy to replace although you should get the front end aligned afterwards. Again, Mazdatrix has them for around $60 each:
These are the part numbers:
32-240A-8531
32-2800-8021
They look like this:

You need two inners and two outers,
I wouldn't replace them one at a time, replace all of them.

3) The ball joints, since the springs are on the top, lifting the car should leave the lower bearing loose. Once it's in the air. see if you can move the ball joint and make sure it's not the wheel bearing moving. I'm sure you can search for a better test than what I'm saying. If your ball joint(s) are bad, forget buying a replacement joint, get a new control arm, go to:

http://mazdatrix.com/hsteer1.htm

49-3200-8871 & 49-3100-8871
You can get both for around $325.
Again you will need an alignment.

4) The top joints above the struts, I can't remember how to test these but I know someone here does.

I don't know Jersey's smog laws, I hope they're not as draconian as the CA ones are.
Did it pas the smog test?

Is this your first rotary? If so, keep in mind that there is a small oil pump that injects crankcase oil into the intake to lube the Apex seals and maybe for any of the other myriad of seals. Why this should concern you is that you need to check the oil more often than on a piston car, it doesn't inject much oil but it is cumulative so it can't hurt to check once a week.

Change the oil and filter, I use Castrol 20W-50, I had a rotary rebuild shop swear by it and it seems to have been OK for all the RX-7s I've had.

Do a coolant flush and use the anti-freeze that is recommended on this board. If I find the link, I'll post it. Mix the water and antifreeze at the correct ratio, I think it's 50/50 but I would check.

Check all the hoses, keep an eye on the gauges and I hope you have a long satisfactory life with this car. If you see the oil pressure drop quickly or the temp gauge go up quickly, shut off the engine and find out why. It would be cheap insurance to get your radiator cored and a new radiator cap.

Unlike a piston engine, rotaries are not forgiving if they overheat or run out of oil. I think their original bad rep came from people who never check (or changed) their oil and didn't bother with this thing called, "Annual Maintenance".

 

I think the 3rd gen cars are one of the best looking cars around, better than any car today except for maybe a Ferrari. They're just so sleek and subtle.

Of course the fact that they're incredibly fast might have something to do with it.

 

I don't know what is the best type of anti-freeze or anti-corrosion fluid is but I'm sure it's posted on this site somewhere.
If I find it, I'll post it here.

There's nothing like seeing a rotor housing that has a good wear surface but electrolysis has eaten into the seal area.

 

Welcome to the club

 

Welcome.