New RX7 Owner
03-25-09, 10:11 PM
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New RX7 Owner
Hi, I've been wanting to join the RX club for quite some time now and finally got around to signing up. I am looking at picking up a 94 13b this weekend and I could really use some tips on what I should look for when purchasing this car. I am no stranger to Mazda, but this will be my first rotary...
I have got lots of opinions from car buddies, but I figured it would be best to ask the pros. The car has 74, 000km, original paint and is bone stock. The title is clean and looks as though it has been maintained well. Are there any basic things I can look at for signs of abuse, bad motor, etc? I hear apex seals are a common problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm looking forward to getting to know everything about these cars and hopefully getting active in this community. Thanks in advance for any advice!
I have got lots of opinions from car buddies, but I figured it would be best to ask the pros. The car has 74, 000km, original paint and is bone stock. The title is clean and looks as though it has been maintained well. Are there any basic things I can look at for signs of abuse, bad motor, etc? I hear apex seals are a common problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm looking forward to getting to know everything about these cars and hopefully getting active in this community. Thanks in advance for any advice!
03-26-09, 01:08 PM
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Hello to you. 
I, too, am new here. I joined a while ago, but mostly read articles and what was going on (trolling, I guess is what it's called.
).
Though I have owned a couple of 7s in the past, and am getting another one within the next month or so.
It's been about 5 years since I last had a 7, and I miss driving them. Both of mine were stock, and I loved them!
It's good that you were able to find the answers to your questions. This site seems to have a lot of great info.
See you around the boards.
Namaste,
Twisted
I, too, am new here. I joined a while ago, but mostly read articles and what was going on (trolling, I guess is what it's called.
).Though I have owned a couple of 7s in the past, and am getting another one within the next month or so.
It's been about 5 years since I last had a 7, and I miss driving them. Both of mine were stock, and I loved them!
It's good that you were able to find the answers to your questions. This site seems to have a lot of great info.
See you around the boards.
Namaste,
Twisted
03-26-09, 01:31 PM
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Hello to you.
I, too, am new here. I joined a while ago, but mostly read articles and what was going on (trolling, I guess is what it's called.).
Though I have owned a couple of 7s in the past, and am getting another one within the next month or so.
It's been about 5 years since I last had a 7, and I miss driving them. Both of mine were stock, and I loved them!
It's good that you were able to find the answers to your questions. This site seems to have a lot of great info.
See you around the boards.
Namaste,
Twisted
I, too, am new here. I joined a while ago, but mostly read articles and what was going on (trolling, I guess is what it's called.
).Though I have owned a couple of 7s in the past, and am getting another one within the next month or so.
It's been about 5 years since I last had a 7, and I miss driving them. Both of mine were stock, and I loved them!
It's good that you were able to find the answers to your questions. This site seems to have a lot of great info.
See you around the boards.
Namaste,
Twisted
03-26-09, 02:21 PM
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I have actually noticed, in my experience, and viewing and listening to many articles and videos, as well as talking with some rotorheads, that 7's and rotarys themselves are pretty strong and reliable.
When one is turboing them out to beyond maximum and racing them a lot, that's where a lot of the problems occur.
Yes, these are racing cars, in many respects, but some people just get a bit too enthusiastic.
If one maintains their car, and doesn't red-line it for 4 minutes in 1-3 gear while drifting, the car should stay in great shape.
Though I admit, it is easy to become a speed-junkie with these cars. As long as one is mindful of their car and engine (especially) things are great with these cars.
Something I have heard, from my sister who has built these engines, is that the 3rd Gens, if you get one Stock, should have it's cooling system improved as the engine has a tendency to overheat.
Once that is fixed the car is a dream.
I don't know if you plan to do any racing. If so, mainly just be aware of your engine.
In a lot of ways rotarys are forgiving engines. More so than pistons.
I think it mainly comes down to responsible care.
Namaste,
Twisted
When one is turboing them out to beyond maximum and racing them a lot, that's where a lot of the problems occur.
Yes, these are racing cars, in many respects, but some people just get a bit too enthusiastic.
If one maintains their car, and doesn't red-line it for 4 minutes in 1-3 gear while drifting, the car should stay in great shape.
Though I admit, it is easy to become a speed-junkie with these cars
. As long as one is mindful of their car and engine (especially) things are great with these cars.Something I have heard, from my sister who has built these engines, is that the 3rd Gens, if you get one Stock, should have it's cooling system improved as the engine has a tendency to overheat.
Once that is fixed the car is a dream.
I don't know if you plan to do any racing. If so, mainly just be aware of your engine.
In a lot of ways rotarys are forgiving engines. More so than pistons.
I think it mainly comes down to responsible care.
Namaste,
Twisted
03-26-09, 05:28 PM
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Hi, I'm new to the 7 community. In fact I'm in the process of picking up a S5 this weekend if the deal goes through. I currently drive a NB miata. That's my daily driver/weekend autox toy. I've always wanted a FC or FD though. The tax return that I just got is going to make this happen.
03-26-09, 05:51 PM
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First and formost check compression by taking one of the plugs out and cranking the motor (dont start) and putting your finger over the plug hole at the same time, If a puff of air comes out then that side of the rotor has good compression, if not then its most likely an apex seal. Its very common due to overheating. Then check the tranny and fluids normal car buying crap. Also just remember the 13b is a touchy motor and NEEDs to be rebuilt every once in a while, Also if they tell you anything about apex seals being replaced and housing gaskets being replaced that means the motor has been rebuilt so be cautious. Just try and be as cautious as possible rotary motors can get expensive once you get into motor internals
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03-27-09, 09:59 PM
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Thanks guys...I am going to be going tomorrow to look at 4 or 5 different cars. All 92-94's. The one I am most interested in is completely stock and I have my compression tester, taking tools, and have access to a hoist before any money changes hands. I want to be as sure as possible that what I am getting is not going to require a second big investment shortly after purchasing. I will be doing a full fluid flush and change as soon as the car gets home, and will be upgrading the cooling system as soon as possible if it has not been done already. I need to confirm good compression and then will move on from there if everything checks out.
I'll let you guys know. I may be an owner by tomorrow afternoon. We'll see!
I'll let you guys know. I may be an owner by tomorrow afternoon. We'll see!
03-27-09, 10:46 PM
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03-27-09, 11:09 PM
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Nice...Do you already own your RX or still looking? I'm trying to find some solid numbers for compression testing tomorrow. Looks like 100psi is good, 115 is almost new. The bump test I can't seem to find consistant numbers on. Some say 35-35psi and another thread says 60-70??? Any suggestions? This is for the 13b TT.
03-28-09, 08:50 AM
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Nice...Do you already own your RX or still looking? I'm trying to find some solid numbers for compression testing tomorrow. Looks like 100psi is good, 115 is almost new. The bump test I can't seem to find consistant numbers on. Some say 35-35psi and another thread says 60-70??? Any suggestions? This is for the 13b TT.
03-28-09, 09:41 PM
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sorry guys i have no answers but i would try the faq section there might be something there to help also if you start a thread about you might get harrased by the more experienced guys so i wouldent do that but ill try and look and sorry i couldent help more
03-28-09, 11:28 PM
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First and formost check compression by taking one of the plugs out and cranking the motor (dont start) and putting your finger over the plug hole at the same time, If a puff of air comes out then that side of the rotor has good compression, if not then its most likely an apex seal. Its very common due to overheating. Then check the tranny and fluids normal car buying crap. Also just remember the 13b is a touchy motor and NEEDs to be rebuilt every once in a while, Also if they tell you anything about apex seals being replaced and housing gaskets being replaced that means the motor has been rebuilt so be cautious. Just try and be as cautious as possible rotary motors can get expensive once you get into motor internals
(1) apex seals fail from detonation. overheating can damage the coolant o-rings. two very different forms of engine failure.
(2) get a compression check done properly, with a gauge. fingers over spark plug holes isn't very scientific.
(3) a rotary does not 'need' to be rebuilt every once in a while, unless it dies from old age/use.....ie a motor might start to have low compression after 150,000 miles but with a boosted rotary you shouldnt be worried about that.
(4) No need to be cautious if it's a rebuild, as long as it was done right. At this stage in the game, how many of these cars still have original engines?
For all you new guys, make sure you check your sources. Don't take everything you read over the internet as truth, and take everything with a grain of salt. There are users on this board who know their stuff, by searching old threads you'll find out who they are
03-29-09, 05:37 AM
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Love hate relationship
Proud owner of a 1990 GXL. I really like tinkering with things and this is new toy. This is my first rotary and so far I find them to be interesting, considering as I fix one thing another issue arises.
03-29-09, 07:55 AM
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MPRPRX7 and Twisted7... Welcome to both of you. The Rx7 can be very durable and reliable. People who complain about blowing their motors either don;t know how to maintain them, overboost them without appropriate changes elsewhere, or bought a car that had been treated that way. Read the Howard Coleman posts in the 3rd gen section of "making the case for the rotary" or something like that.
If your car is a nice low mile stock car and you maintain it correctly, you will have no problems. Water injection will prevent detonation if you upgrade it.
Enjoy and feel free to PM me with questions.
Gordon
If your car is a nice low mile stock car and you maintain it correctly, you will have no problems. Water injection will prevent detonation if you upgrade it.
Enjoy and feel free to PM me with questions.
Gordon
I will look into that thread! Thanks for the heads up. I did in fact pick up my car yesterday and all I can say is wow. Unreal. It feels like I'm getting stuffed into the seat every time I roll on it. The water meth is also an awesome reliable way to lower egt's...we use it on all our performance diesel trucks. Thanks for the advice. I will be PMing you for more information! aahaha.
Steve
03-29-09, 06:36 PM
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A couple of things incorrect in this post......
(1) apex seals fail from detonation. overheating can damage the coolant o-rings. two very different forms of engine failure.
(2) get a compression check done properly, with a gauge. fingers over spark plug holes isn't very scientific.
(3) a rotary does not 'need' to be rebuilt every once in a while, unless it dies from old age/use.....ie a motor might start to have low compression after 150,000 miles but with a boosted rotary you shouldnt be worried about that.
(4) No need to be cautious if it's a rebuild, as long as it was done right. At this stage in the game, how many of these cars still have original engines?
For all you new guys, make sure you check your sources. Don't take everything you read over the internet as truth, and take everything with a grain of salt. There are users on this board who know their stuff, by searching old threads you'll find out who they are
(1) apex seals fail from detonation. overheating can damage the coolant o-rings. two very different forms of engine failure.
(2) get a compression check done properly, with a gauge. fingers over spark plug holes isn't very scientific.
(3) a rotary does not 'need' to be rebuilt every once in a while, unless it dies from old age/use.....ie a motor might start to have low compression after 150,000 miles but with a boosted rotary you shouldnt be worried about that.
(4) No need to be cautious if it's a rebuild, as long as it was done right. At this stage in the game, how many of these cars still have original engines?
For all you new guys, make sure you check your sources. Don't take everything you read over the internet as truth, and take everything with a grain of salt. There are users on this board who know their stuff, by searching old threads you'll find out who they are
Hey...Thanks for the tips. You are right about everyone having their own opinions. I will be looking for the reputable answers, not what just anyone believes. I was very impressed that when I was looking over my car before the purchase that it was all origional, stock motor, right down to the intake, exhaust wheels, and interior. The car has 74,000km and has never been modified. An aftermarket head unit has been installed. Otherwise, the car is untouched.
I will post pictures to show you guys tomorrow...
03-31-09, 09:17 AM
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A few pictures... This was minutes after I got it home. A few scuffs from shipping overseas but overall I am impressed with the condition for a 15 year old vehicle. The car needs a good wash and wax but let me know what you think.
03-31-09, 07:36 PM
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A couple of things incorrect in this post......
(1) apex seals fail from detonation. overheating can damage the coolant o-rings. two very different forms of engine failure.
(2) get a compression check done properly, with a gauge. fingers over spark plug holes isn't very scientific.
(3) a rotary does not 'need' to be rebuilt every once in a while, unless it dies from old age/use.....ie a motor might start to have low compression after 150,000 miles but with a boosted rotary you shouldnt be worried about that.
(4) No need to be cautious if it's a rebuild, as long as it was done right. At this stage in the game, how many of these cars still have original engines?
For all you new guys, make sure you check your sources. Don't take everything you read over the internet as truth, and take everything with a grain of salt. There are users on this board who know their stuff, by searching old threads you'll find out who they are
(1) apex seals fail from detonation. overheating can damage the coolant o-rings. two very different forms of engine failure.
(2) get a compression check done properly, with a gauge. fingers over spark plug holes isn't very scientific.
(3) a rotary does not 'need' to be rebuilt every once in a while, unless it dies from old age/use.....ie a motor might start to have low compression after 150,000 miles but with a boosted rotary you shouldnt be worried about that.
(4) No need to be cautious if it's a rebuild, as long as it was done right. At this stage in the game, how many of these cars still have original engines?
For all you new guys, make sure you check your sources. Don't take everything you read over the internet as truth, and take everything with a grain of salt. There are users on this board who know their stuff, by searching old threads you'll find out who they are
Just because i do things the "wrong" way according to you does not mean you have to call me inexperianced or say that i dont know what im talking about
Thanks
04-01-09, 09:51 AM
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I did my first oil change on the car last night...Was looking through the front bumper ducts and noticed that I have the dual oil coolers and brake ducts. I knew the car had the red RX-7 strut bar, and suede seats but the other items I had not noticed before. This made me wonder what model the car actually was.
After a little digging, and going out to take a look at the door badge, it turns out I have an R Type Special Edition. Now my only question is, I have read the R types did not come with a rear wiper, and mine has one? The car is completely stock, untouched. So I'm a little confused, but happy that it looks like my car is an R1 or R2...
Any ideas on the rear wiper?
After a little digging, and going out to take a look at the door badge, it turns out I have an R Type Special Edition. Now my only question is, I have read the R types did not come with a rear wiper, and mine has one? The car is completely stock, untouched. So I'm a little confused, but happy that it looks like my car is an R1 or R2...
Any ideas on the rear wiper?
