New Member Looking at Possible Project
05-24-24, 08:42 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
New Member Looking at Possible Project
Greetings to all.
I am currently looking at a possible project, a first generation RX7, and I am looking for advice as to what I should be looking out for with these cars, as well as direction to the go-to parts vendors. I have fairly extensive mechanical experience, dating back to my college years in the late 1960s working in a Texaco station. More recently, since I retired twenty years ago, I have done a ground-up restoration of a Triumph Spitfire, a cosmetic restoration of an Opel GT, and I have built a Factory Five Racing Type 65 Coupe. But I have no experience working with the RX7, other than a brief ownership period in about 1983. I seem to recall that the engines had issues with an oil seal -- was that the case and, if so, has a good correction been found. What other issues should I be concerned about.
Thanks in advance...
MAS
I am currently looking at a possible project, a first generation RX7, and I am looking for advice as to what I should be looking out for with these cars, as well as direction to the go-to parts vendors. I have fairly extensive mechanical experience, dating back to my college years in the late 1960s working in a Texaco station. More recently, since I retired twenty years ago, I have done a ground-up restoration of a Triumph Spitfire, a cosmetic restoration of an Opel GT, and I have built a Factory Five Racing Type 65 Coupe. But I have no experience working with the RX7, other than a brief ownership period in about 1983. I seem to recall that the engines had issues with an oil seal -- was that the case and, if so, has a good correction been found. What other issues should I be concerned about.
Thanks in advance...
MAS
05-24-24, 10:44 AM
#2
You might want to consider if you want to restore to a stock or modified condition. Many non mechanical things, interior parts ect.. are NLA and you'll be forced to turn over a lot of rocks to find decent, good condition, OEM replacements. These things aren't supported by the aftermarket either. They are not cars you can pick up a catalog and just order what you need.
The basic rules still apply, avoid the rust buckets, The more complete the car is and the better mechanically it is, the less it will need, which will free up more money and time for other things. In general, prices have about tripled in the last 5-10 years, so it leaves more room to invest money in, before getting too upside down with the end result.
The 12A engine (like what was in your 83) is pretty reliable if you keep oil in it and don't overheat it. The soft seals can degrade if overheated and could have caused the leak you experienced, but overall they are lots of cars still running strong with 100K plus on the clocks. A compression check with a rotary specific tester is a good indicator of an engines overall health. Look for readings in the 100 - 120 range with 3 fairly even pulses in both chambers. Below 90 PSI and it might be time for a rebuild.
Atkins and Racing Beat are 2 of the bigger places that still offer parts and support. Don't count out the local dealer though either. You can be surprised at what is still available. You just have to know more than your local parts guy and research availability on line before going to your local parts counter and have the guy give you that blank stare and shoulder shrug. Seems like there are a lot of guys parting out cars on FB and Market place, but there are lots of scum bag scammers hanging out there too. Riggs Rotary in Canada and Rhinehart's Rotary in PA are 2 online places that advertise parts.
In short, I like to buy the best example I can find to begin with. If its got a good interior and needs little paint work, thats a win, win.
The basic rules still apply, avoid the rust buckets, The more complete the car is and the better mechanically it is, the less it will need, which will free up more money and time for other things. In general, prices have about tripled in the last 5-10 years, so it leaves more room to invest money in, before getting too upside down with the end result.
The 12A engine (like what was in your 83) is pretty reliable if you keep oil in it and don't overheat it. The soft seals can degrade if overheated and could have caused the leak you experienced, but overall they are lots of cars still running strong with 100K plus on the clocks. A compression check with a rotary specific tester is a good indicator of an engines overall health. Look for readings in the 100 - 120 range with 3 fairly even pulses in both chambers. Below 90 PSI and it might be time for a rebuild.
Atkins and Racing Beat are 2 of the bigger places that still offer parts and support. Don't count out the local dealer though either. You can be surprised at what is still available. You just have to know more than your local parts guy and research availability on line before going to your local parts counter and have the guy give you that blank stare and shoulder shrug. Seems like there are a lot of guys parting out cars on FB and Market place, but there are lots of scum bag scammers hanging out there too. Riggs Rotary in Canada and Rhinehart's Rotary in PA are 2 online places that advertise parts.
In short, I like to buy the best example I can find to begin with. If its got a good interior and needs little paint work, thats a win, win.
The following users liked this post:
VA RX7 (05-24-24)
05-24-24, 11:53 AM
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
You might want to consider if you want to restore to a stock or modified condition. Many non mechanical things, interior parts ect.. are NLA and you'll be forced to turn over a lot of rocks to find decent, good condition, OEM replacements. These things aren't supported by the aftermarket either. They are not cars you can pick up a catalog and just order what you need.
The basic rules still apply, avoid the rust buckets, The more complete the car is and the better mechanically it is, the less it will need, which will free up more money and time for other things. In general, prices have about tripled in the last 5-10 years, so it leaves more room to invest money in, before getting too upside down with the end result.
The 12A engine (like what was in your 83) is pretty reliable if you keep oil in it and don't overheat it. The soft seals can degrade if overheated and could have caused the leak you experienced, but overall they are lots of cars still running strong with 100K plus on the clocks. A compression check with a rotary specific tester is a good indicator of an engines overall health. Look for readings in the 100 - 120 range with 3 fairly even pulses in both chambers. Below 90 PSI and it might be time for a rebuild.
Atkins and Racing Beat are 2 of the bigger places that still offer parts and support. Don't count out the local dealer though either. You can be surprised at what is still available. You just have to know more than your local parts guy and research availability on line before going to your local parts counter and have the guy give you that blank stare and shoulder shrug. Seems like there are a lot of guys parting out cars on FB and Market place, but there are lots of scum bag scammers hanging out there too. Riggs Rotary in Canada and Rhinehart's Rotary in PA are 2 online places that advertise parts.
In short, I like to buy the best example I can find to begin with. If its got a good interior and needs little paint work, thats a win, win.
The basic rules still apply, avoid the rust buckets, The more complete the car is and the better mechanically it is, the less it will need, which will free up more money and time for other things. In general, prices have about tripled in the last 5-10 years, so it leaves more room to invest money in, before getting too upside down with the end result.
The 12A engine (like what was in your 83) is pretty reliable if you keep oil in it and don't overheat it. The soft seals can degrade if overheated and could have caused the leak you experienced, but overall they are lots of cars still running strong with 100K plus on the clocks. A compression check with a rotary specific tester is a good indicator of an engines overall health. Look for readings in the 100 - 120 range with 3 fairly even pulses in both chambers. Below 90 PSI and it might be time for a rebuild.
Atkins and Racing Beat are 2 of the bigger places that still offer parts and support. Don't count out the local dealer though either. You can be surprised at what is still available. You just have to know more than your local parts guy and research availability on line before going to your local parts counter and have the guy give you that blank stare and shoulder shrug. Seems like there are a lot of guys parting out cars on FB and Market place, but there are lots of scum bag scammers hanging out there too. Riggs Rotary in Canada and Rhinehart's Rotary in PA are 2 online places that advertise parts.
In short, I like to buy the best example I can find to begin with. If its got a good interior and needs little paint work, thats a win, win.
The following users liked this post:
VA RX7 (05-24-24)
05-24-24, 01:25 PM
#4
I have both the Haynes and the factory manuals. The Haynes incorporates several different factory manual information but isn't as in depth as some of the factory ones. The factory manuals can all be downloaded from the Fox.com site. It's a valuable resource for rotary owners.
The following 2 users liked this post by Banzai:
smithisretired (05-25-24),
VA RX7 (05-24-24)
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