And3rs88

Hey guys. I bought myself a jdm series 6 FD in beautiful yellow just one week ago and im absolutely in live with it. she's had a rebuild 10,000 km's is ago so fingers crossed it lasts at least 100,000 k's im hoping.it isn't totally without problems though, the only rotaries ive seen were at the drags so im not sure what normal sounds like... Mine has a bit if a lopping idle and you can smell how.rich it is when you start it up, basically the engine is stock except for 3" cat back, RE Amemiya filter and.a Japanese house tune, ports/ seals and turbos are all stock.

If anyone would like to give some of their expertise here it would be much appreciated

Speedo and tachi cut in and out of action too so any ideas. The sooner I get everything fixed the sooner I can get a roadworthy certificate and actually drive it

spoolrx7

Hi mate. I'm a noob on here and also from down under. Im not saying it is but the idle symptoms and smell of fuel on idle is usually indicative of a chipped apex seal. Have the motor compression tested to rest ur mind. you can do so your self with a modified standard compression tester. You just need to remove the shrouder valve on the bottom so that it doesn't have the peak hold feature. All you do is look for three even compression pulses. GL with it mate.

And3rs88

Im hoping it's not an apex/corner seal as the motor was rebuilt just 10,000 k's ago, not by a expert rotor mechanic, just a hobby rotor builder. Ive spoken to him on a few occasions before buying the car and ive heard he know his stuff. The thing that worries me about amateur builders is the checking of tolerances... All apex seals were replaced with standard seals during rebuild as well as a second hand rear housing and rotor too.I think... and the vacuum lines were replaced on the turbos so I dont think they have boost pills in it coz it's only pushing like 5-7 psi on full boost so should be pretty safe for the engine run in. I have a compression tester so im just waiting for my 2 new trailing plugs to arrive so I can test it (I broke the ceramic on one) if I have a broken seal I am going to be devastated lol

And3rs88

I havnt even had the privilege of driving her that much coz I bought it unreg. I got a one day rego to drive it 40kms to my house, then I went for a bit of a strap around the block for a bit of fun and that as much driving ive done so I might just be stressing that ive bought a lemon, really I havnt had a chance to put it through it's paces, all ive found so far is that if I give it a bit of a rev it blows a bit of smoke and the occasional fireball ;D haha which I find to be pretty awsome just not sure whats normal, ive been.told it is normal for them to blow a bit of smoke and that with a 3" straight through exhaust alot more unburned fuel makes its way out of the rear end...

spoolrx7

Yeh I hope it's all good for you mate. Your symptoms might even be tune related. Standard ECU? What is a Japanese house tune, was this from Japan? If so u will need a retune to suit Oz weather and fuel. The series 6 had boost pills in the lines so if he changed the lines he may have left them out. In regards to your smoke what colour is it? Usually unburnt oil as in a leaking turbo into the exhaust stream is white, rich from fuel is black and burnt oil through combustion is usually blue/grey. Let me know how you get on mate.

And3rs88

The car is a Jap import, ecu is stock but it looks like its been played with coz it has Japanese 'panspeed' stickers on it. I think the smoke is just black but my brother seems to think it's a bit white, it mainly blows a bit under revs so when the turbo spools maybe its pushing excess oil through the intake... have taken the intake piping off and found a few small pools of oil, I had a sneaking suspicion the turbo's we're on the way out just from talking to the previous owners and the way they were talking up a single turbo conversion lol. I should really suss the turbo's out for shaft play, I want to upgrade to a single anyway though so I'm not too worried about the current twin setup, I just want to know the engine is solid!!! will find out after a compression test I guess. Definitely want to change to a standalone ecu but undecided what brand to go with, apexi, lt10s, and the haltech sprint RE all sound like good options I just wonder if they come with a base map to suit aussie conditions.....