Just got my 94 FD!
#4
its still the original paint and its in pretty good shape for the most part. the interior is all original and in good shape. there were some "reliability mods" done to the car. new seals, break lines, vacuum lines,air box, intercooler and turbo timer. he also had a BoV on there too not sure about that one haha.
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#8
It Just Feels Right
iTrader: (11)
You might be playing with fire on a stock ECU with aftermarket intake and SMIC (and guessing downpipe and catback and maybe even mid-pipe). You should look into a boost gauge to ensure you are not exceeding 10 psi, and possibly upgrade to an aftermarket ECU (or revert some of the mods back to stock)
#10
Don't worry be happy...
iTrader: (1)
Congratulations! Nice car.
It is very interesting that your car comes with a 93 tach. Maybe it was swapped?
As a reference the 94-95 FD's tach look like this:
Agreed! When I swapped my stock IC for a Peter Ferrel unit (just like his) I experienced an increase of +2 psi. Which at the time I attributed to the stocker having a greater pressure drop than the PFS unit. Luckily, I had an electronic boost controller that solved the problem immediately with a simple adjustment
OP,
It is imperative that you get a boost gauge to find out what you are boosting because if you are truly suffering from elevated boost you are in danger of blowing up your engine. I will note that when I swapped out my stock SMIC with the PFS unit, I had a few mods under my belt already (CAI, DP,MP) that could had compounded to my over boost. I don't know if that is the case, but what I do know is that before installing the PFS I was boosting 10PSI and 1/2hr later after installation I was boosting 12PSI (No changes in mods other than the IC).
So don't boost the car until you know.
Edit-
#1 Rule: Turbo rotaries absolutely hate lean conditions. Unlike a regular piston engine where a knock or an ping is no big deal, a rotary will let you know it doesn't like it via a blown engine.
It is very interesting that your car comes with a 93 tach. Maybe it was swapped?
As a reference the 94-95 FD's tach look like this:
You might be playing with fire on a stock ECU with aftermarket intake and SMIC (and guessing downpipe and catback and maybe even mid-pipe). You should look into a boost gauge to ensure you are not exceeding 10 psi, and possibly upgrade to an aftermarket ECU (or revert some of the mods back to stock)
OP,
It is imperative that you get a boost gauge to find out what you are boosting because if you are truly suffering from elevated boost you are in danger of blowing up your engine. I will note that when I swapped out my stock SMIC with the PFS unit, I had a few mods under my belt already (CAI, DP,MP) that could had compounded to my over boost. I don't know if that is the case, but what I do know is that before installing the PFS I was boosting 10PSI and 1/2hr later after installation I was boosting 12PSI (No changes in mods other than the IC).
So don't boost the car until you know.
Edit-
#1 Rule: Turbo rotaries absolutely hate lean conditions. Unlike a regular piston engine where a knock or an ping is no big deal, a rotary will let you know it doesn't like it via a blown engine.
Last edited by Montego; 10-04-17 at 02:08 PM.
#13
It Just Feels Right
iTrader: (11)
A general comment on mods and boost control. When modifications are made to increase flow through the engine, that equates to exhaust flow which equates to boost. The boost controller (factory of aftermarket) then works w/i the ability of the wastegate to expel extra exhaust gases, in that it can only operate the wastegate between fully closed and fully open. When the exhaust flow overwhelms the wastegate, that's a problem. The solution is to either increase the size of the wastegate (through porting) or limit the flow the wastegate needs to handle (or combination of the two). The latter is addressed by what modifications are made (or not made).
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Alexfedwards (10-06-17)