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Hey, I’m Ryan & I am first time Rotary owner!

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Old May 4, 2021 | 11:44 AM
  #26  
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From: Miami, FL
Originally Posted by Redbul
All stroke, all the time.


We were trying to determine if his smoke problem at start up is a problem or not.
Lol, I’ll try to remember that response next time I’m at the pump. Question, and I apologize if you answered this already. Is there a certain way to test compression on these rotary engines? Or is it just like compression testing a piston engine?

ALSO, not sure why I didn’t add this before. On cold start up, apart from the smoking when it’s cold, the engine idles very rough and low, like at 500-700 rpm. If I don’t rev it up a few times when it’s warming up, the plugs seem to get clogged (not sure if that’s the correct term) Im assuming from running rich. If that happens, I have to do a high rpm pull to clear it out and it’s fine again after that. But once the engine warms up, the idle raises a bit and idles fine.

Please forgive me if all these are no brainers, I’m learning as I go. 🙏🏽
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Old May 4, 2021 | 01:29 PM
  #27  
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Could be O2 sensor or TPS is aging. It the ECU does not get a good reading it will run on default mode.

I you have a power FC, it just likes to idle rough because the ecu is constantly searching for feedback.

Be very gentle with the TPS.
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Old May 4, 2021 | 01:49 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Ryansayeed
Awesome! Good to get that clarification on the premix. That 12oz bottle is a good tip. I have been using the Idimitsu premix that come in quarts, which are 32oz and have the transparent measure on the side in 4oz intervals, so that helps a lot. Yea, I was kinda happy the prev owner deleted the OMP after reading up on it, cause spending and extra min at the pump to premix is not a problem at all for me....
I used to use Idimetsu but nobody around here carries it and it's so expensive, plus shipping. I have no doubt it's the best, but just look for the "TC-W3" designation on the bottle. That's what's certified by Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, etc as clean burning / non gumming / non carbonizing in their 2-stroke motors. I can get a gallon at Pep Boys for $12 and perfectly portion it out in my little bottles.


Going from the Idumetsu to this "chainsaw" grade hasn't created any more smoke or shown any difference on my plugs. Just look for TC-W3 on the bottle.
Or keep using the Idu. If I could get it and afford it I would too. But when my car's running good I'll go through a tank a day on Fri, Sat, Sun so waiting for Amazon to deliver another $20 qt doesn't work for me.
*Note the early OMP's are purely mechanical and don't fail like the electric ones on your car. They may leak but rebuild kits are cheap and easy to install. I took mine off because I didn't want to inject sooty motor oil into my fuel.

Last edited by Maxwedge; May 4, 2021 at 02:23 PM.
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Old May 5, 2021 | 10:24 AM
  #29  
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From: Miami, FL
Originally Posted by Redbul
Could be O2 sensor or TPS is aging. It the ECU does not get a good reading it will run on default mode.

I you have a power FC, it just likes to idle rough because the ecu is constantly searching for feedback.

Be very gentle with the TPS.
ah, that makes sense. I will replace the o2 sensor first and see where that gets me. If that doesn’t work I’ll, follow through accordingly. Thanks bro, you’ve been a GREAT help so far.

Originally Posted by Maxwedge
I used to use Idimetsu but nobody around here carries it and it's so expensive, plus shipping. I have no doubt it's the best, but just look for the "TC-W3" designation on the bottle. That's what's certified by Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, etc as clean burning / non gumming / non carbonizing in their 2-stroke motors. I can get a gallon at Pep Boys for $12 and perfectly portion it out in my little bottles.


Going from the Idumetsu to this "chainsaw" grade hasn't created any more smoke or shown any difference on my plugs. Just look for TC-W3 on the bottle.
Or keep using the Idu. If I could get it and afford it I would too. But when my car's running good I'll go through a tank a day on Fri, Sat, Sun so waiting for Amazon to deliver another $20 qt doesn't work for me.
*Note the early OMP's are purely mechanical and don't fail like the electric ones on your car. They may leak but rebuild kits are cheap and easy to install. I took mine off because I didn't want to inject sooty motor oil into my fuel.

I definitely hear ya. I’m all for saving money when & where I can, but fortunately, the prev owner had about 2 & 1/2 cases of the Premix that he gave to me when he sold me the car. So I’m thinking that should last me at least a year or so. But thank you so much for the info on the “TC-W3”. That will come in very handy if and when I run out of the Idimitsu stuff.
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Old May 5, 2021 | 02:17 PM
  #30  
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Welcome!
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