There is another guy selling tan pieces quite cheap. Scroll down in marketplace, you will likely find it.

FD are pretty resilient to rust (the ones I have seen anyway). But you might want to get a frank assessment of the rust damage to the frame(s).

There was a guy from Washington state that recovered a car in similar condition. He was running a thread for a while.

Did a great job restoring the car,

If you DM me I can run you through a door card removal.

But there maybe be someone local who would pop over and help you.

Most important is to locate and find the hidden fasteners and make sure they are all removed.

There is one hidden behind the passenger window switch. For instance.

try to download a copy of the Factory Service manual (FSM).

It will show you the location of all the fasteners.

Don't discard even the smallest bit, even if broken, until you know you have a replacement.

 

These are 2 very important points. I'll post a link to the FSM I have when I head home here in the next 20 mins.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/market/1154383

 

Awesome start and hope you can make some progress on the car. One question I had though. When you picked up the car, did you also get the title with it? If not, you should ensure you can work out the title situation before putting any money into it. The last thing you want to deal with is putting a lot of time and money into the car only to find out you can't get it street legal.

Make liberal use of the forums. The amount of things I've done to mine is very long and a lot has come from reading here and implementing the ideas I learned here. Nothing is insurmountable with patience, time, effort, and money.

 

I checked the post out and the prices are great, except the shipping for the bins, but that's to be expected with such a large item. I did notice though it seems like a lot of it needs some repairs. I think my current plan is to demold all my plastics and then possibly hit them with some black SEM interior paint if they don't clean up too well (which I suspect they probably wont)

Speaking of interior pieces I had found a pair of aluminum door sill plates still in a plastic bags laying in the car. I had thought they were aftermarket, but after doing some reading I think this was a factory or dealer option. Is this correct?

I should have the title in my name in a couple of weeks just waiting on the mail I've been lurking around here checking out everyone's builds to get ideas on both restoration and mod ideas/advice. Now I just have to be patient on the time and money part lol

 

Yup. There were/are aluminum dealer option plates. Quite popular. If NIB (new in bag) you could ask a good price for those.

Post a pic!

 

I'm currently repainting a bunch of stuff from stock tan to black. A lot of people here really like Duplicolor plastic prep spray plus their bumper and trim black. I used that and the tan pieces I did so far came out excellent. Looks like factory. SEM is also great. You can't go wrong with either brand. Definitely stay with one of those two. I wasn't impressed with the Krylon stuff I tried.

One thing I did was repair the parts that I could repair using a cheap Harbor Freight plastic welder. Then I used an orbital sander with 120 grit pads to sand them down and smoothed them out by hand with 180 grit. It got rid of the nice 94 texture, but with so many deep scratches and my repairs, it needed it. Hit it with the plastic prep and the black, they look real nice.

Definitely repair everything that you have all the structure for. If you're missing tabs, just buy some plastic sheet online (you can buy every type needed as small sheets), cut the tab size you need, plastic weld (really just melt) them on, and drill holes as needed. Every piece has a plastic type code on it, and the manual explains all the codes. Some are obvious, like ABS.

 

Nice! I'll have to ask my dad to grab a pic for me since the car is at his place and I just started my last year at school. They definitely haven't been installed before, if worth some money I'd probably sell them to fund some parts I'm in need of.

 

Awesome! what skill level of painting would you say this involves? I might have a friend who's a painter tackle this task, I'm a little hesitant to get it to look perfect. I did it for my 67 mustang, but really want this to look good in the long run. I also have a plastic welder already and a 3D printer in case the need arises. I know PLA won't hold up to higher temps, but printing in ABS should do the trick.

 

Have a friend in California?

Move fast.

https://www.rx7club.com/market/1155339

 

I actually do, but looks like Jatt beat me to the punch.

 

Jatt, Jatt help the new guy out!

@Jatt

 

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post12502512

Free carpet?

 

For the Duplicolor and SEM rattle can repainting, almost no skill at all. I'm not great at rattle canning and I managed to do smaller pieces with curves and details (like the seat back handles) perfectly. The sanding requires more time, skill, patience, and precision if you choose to do it. If your pieces don't have deep scratches you want to remove, just clean them well with a non-solvent based cleaner and paint. I like things like Goop and Go Gone for that. Maybe a Mr Clean Magic Eraser or any melamine sponge you prep with agents yourself for cheaper. Easy peasy.

That 3D printer can really come in handy, especially if you have a 3D scanner or have the skill to not need a 3D scanner. I've also had decent results with some of the phone apps that do 3D scanning with the camera. You can get a good enough rough mesh to base the model on and refine.

 

Dude I really appreciate you looking out for parts for me! I looked at his thread, but it looks like he's using parts of that carpet to use on the new one he ordered. I'll be watching his thread though since that's the same place I was going to order my new one from.

 

Awesome, I'll probably tackle it myself then.

What 3D scanning apps are you using? I usually build my own 3D models, but using a scanning app would definitely be useful for getting the model spot on.

 

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/304324284526...IAAOSwaFdh6tu9

 

^ Saw that last night, 10x over priced lol.

 

That would definitely be useful, but at that price I'd have to prioritize getting a rear window first lol

 

you have more energy and patience than me to take something like this on.

TX is a pretty big chunk of real estate; didn't see you mention what part?
.

 

So I was able to grab them over the weekend, I opened the bags to inspect them and unfortunately they have some blemishes from sitting inside the car. I'm considering selling, but if they aren't worth much in this condition I might just hold on to them. What should I realistically expect for these?

 

People really want those. $100 each should clear.

Those appear to have been cleaned up at least once previously. Usually the "RX7" is bronze coloured.

But , nevermind.

 

Interesting. I noticed the bronze lettering as well in ebay postings, but these were still in the bag with them taped shut. I noticed on the ebay postings as well were from $300-600 in the same to worse condition as mine, but I guess those prices are high. I think I'm going to hang on to them at $100 a piece.

for reference:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19448609974...sAAOSwb2Fhges2
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19474126089...gAAOSwKdRh48Nw
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19492773645...wAAOSwUtdiNyW6
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17519532824....c101113.m2108


Edit: Just to be clear, I'm not challenging your evaluation on their price. I'm just stating why I assumed they were worth more. I value the information everyone is willing to give me.

Double edit: Also it seems like all the examples I linked have the RX-7 lettering raised while mine are indented, maybe mine are just aftermarket?

 

By :"market clearing" I mean a price that is sure to sell. Seller might achieve higher.

Over the last 25 years anything could have happened including after market copies.

Other than that group of marks on one end, yours are an attractive set.

The originals were a "dealer option" and did not really fit the FD in my opinion.

But the bright trim does look nice in the cabin when the door is closed.

 

Before you get too far invested, time or financial, check the integrity of the floor and rockers. That floor could be full of rust in some locations which is cost prohibitive to repair on a unibody like the FD.